A Tour of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral and its Plazas

Join me on a tour of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral and its four plazas and learn of the three tasks that every pilgrim must do in the cathedral before her pilgrimage is complete.

"To journey without being changed, is to be a nomad. To change without journeying is to be a chameleon. To journey and to be transformed by the journeying is to be a pilgrim."  - Mark Nepo

The beauty of Santiago de Compostela is the medieval city. Once completely walled, even now the city boasts its original narrow and circular streets that add to the city's charm, while confusing the first time visitor. The focal point of the city, of course, is the grand cathedral.

The city built around the cathedral to Santiago, or St. James as we know him, is deeply cloaked in legend. For a brief historical synopsis of the legends surrounding this city and how it got its name, please refer to Santiago de Compostela, History and Legends.

I have attempted to capture some of the grandeur and emotion of this place, to where so many pilgrims travel, entering the city by the hundreds on a daily basis. It is hard to describe a place that is mixed with so many expectations, mysteries, pilgrims and tourist trappings, but I will attempt to do so, through my own eyes and heart.

To read my personal story of my own final pilgrimage steps into the city, see Day Five on the Camino Inglés.

To start you orientation, below is a Google Map of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Enlarge it, slide the position around, click on the Earth view - just play with the map! It will help you in your orientation immensely, when you arrive.

Goggle Map of Santiago Cathedral

Most pilgrim's final steps of their Camino de Santiago are taken on the Camino Francés or the French Way, just after it passes the Puerta de Azabachería on the north side of the cathedral, then goes through this tunnel gate, shown in the photo below, that leads them into the Obradoiro Square. There is always a bagpiper in this tunnel, called the Arco de Palacio (Palace Arch), or some other Celtic group to serenade one's entry into the square! The musicians create quite the ambiance for one's final steps to the grand entrance of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela!

Bagpiper in the Arco de Palacio, Santiago de CompostelaFrequent Bagpiper seen in the Arco de Palacio

Looking through the Arco de Palacio, one catches their first glimpse of the Obradoiro Square.

Arco de Palacio, Santiago de CompostelaArco de Palacio, Santiago de Compostela

Below is the Obradoiro Square, with the cathedral immediately to your left and the Palacio de Rajoy to the right. This is the square where the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is most photographed with its western Façade of the Obradoiro.

.

Obradoiro Square, Santiago de CompostelaA Rainy Obradoiro Square

The Palacio de Rajoy frames the Plaza do Obradoiro on the western side. There is always a gathering of tourists and pilgrims in this square, despite the rain on this day! Unless the rain is pouring down, this square is always full of people milling around.

Palacio de Rajoy, Santiago de CompostelaPalacio de Rajoy, West End of Obradoiro Square

When the sun shines on the square, as in the photo below, pilgrims camp out to gaze on the cathedral for hours! When you lie down and gaze upwards, the soaring height of the cathedral gives you the sensation that it is falling down towards you!

The pleasure, awe and relief on all the faces of the pilgrims is obvious and it's as if they cannot take their eyes off the prize that they have finally won. This is the vision that they have held in their mind's eye for days, weeks and perhaps months on the Camino.

Pilgrims Repose in the Plaza de Obradoiro, Santiago de CompostelaPilgrims Repose in the Plaza de Obradoiro

The object of the pilgrim's gaze in Obradoiro Square is the cathedral, as it towers to your left, framing the square on the eastern side. Despite the cathedral being shrouded in scaffolding, it is a thrilling sight to behold. I recall the moment very well, when I gazed upon it for the first time. I seemed to be suspended in a moment in time, neither here nor there. My Camino partner and I gazed on it for some time, not really knowing what we needed to do next as time stood still.

Below is a photo of how the cathedral appeared in 2014.

Western Façade of the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaWestern Façade of the Santiago Cathedral

The Cathedral's Western Façade

On my second visit to Santiago de Compostela in 2015, one of the towers had the scaffolding removed. You can see how bright and white the tower on the left looks, in comparison to the middle section. The lichen and plants growing out of the stone makes quite a difference! You can really see it, even in this picture at dusk!

The mural from a photo of the tower on the right is also now removed and only the scaffolding remains. May the removal of the scaffolding be far behind? The main entrance to the cathedral from Obradoiro Square was also now closed to the public in 2015.

Low Light Western Façade, Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, SpainWestern Façade Just Before Dusk

For more of my personal photos and my personal celebration of our arrival at the cathedral from this square, go to Day Five on the Camino Inglés.

The grand staircase, a diamond-shaped Renaissance-style entryway catches your eye as the way into the grand cathedral

Renaissance Stairway to the Cathedral, Santiago de CompostelaRenaissance Stairway to the Cathedral

Up these grand stairs toward the Romanesque Pórtico da Gloria, my eye wandered ever upward. I wished the main towers were not in scaffolding, but I breathed, excepted the situation and knew I would be back one day to see it complete.

Even though it is difficult to see in this photo below, a statue of  St. James is in the central niche, again in the guise of a pilgrim.

On another, more sunny day, I captured the grand Palacio Rajoy from the top of the cathedral's grand stairway:

Palacio de Rajoy, Santiago de CompostelaPalacio de Rajoy

Statues of Santiago in his pilgrim garb can be found everywhere in Santiago de Compostela. Here is the close-up of him, atop the Palacio Rajoy, depicted this time as a Moor slayer. While the attempted Moorish occupation of Galacia was many centuries after the death of St. James, somehow he always showed up in battle to save the day!

While I am not by any means a violence-lover, I do love this depiction of Santiago on top of his horse, at least in the metaphorical sense, as he beats the "enemy" back.

St. James, the Moor Slayer, Santiago de CompostelaSt. James the Moor Slayer

The Pilgrim's Three Tasks Upon Entering the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

A pilgrimage to Santiago is not complete until the pilgrim performs three traditional tasks.

When one enters into the Pórtico da Gloria, you immediately see the famous central vertical column. It is the column that bears the indentations of the fingers of thousands of pilgrims over the centuries, whom upon entering the cathedral, placed their hand on this column to express gratitude and accept the blessing of being there.

It is the first task of the pilgrim, upon ending her pilgrimage, to touch this column. I was sorely disappointed when I discovered that due to the restoration work on the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, this column was blocked off. All I could do was take this photo.

While my photo is dark because of the scaffolding above that cloaked the column, if you look very carefully, you will see five depressions from the fingers of the right hand. This is where hundreds of thousands of pilgrims have touched the column over the millennia.

Central Mullion, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaHandprint on the Central Mullion of the Portico da Gloria

Atop the mullion, of course, sits Santiago with his pilgrim's staff in his hand, though not easily seen in the photo below:

Santiago Atop the Central Mullion, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaSantiago Sits Atop the Mullion

Unfortunately, in 2015 when I visited the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the entire Pórtico da Gloria was inaccessible due to the renovation! What a disappointment!  I hope that when you visit, you will be able to see these glorious features of the cathedral.

The Pilgrim's Second Task in the Cathedral

As you enter the central nave, the high altar comes into focus, a gilded wonder. The gilded effigy of St. James, in the middle is surrounded by golden angels, white horses and all manner of columns, scroll work and embellishments. 

You can also see the silver botafumerio (incense burner) to the upper right of St. James head.

High Altar, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaHigh Altar with Effigy of St. James

Walking even closer, one can only stare in wonder. As is the custom for the pilgrim, after she places her hand in the column, is to approach the altar of St. James, shown in close-up in the photo below. One cannot get close, as the high altar is cordoned off from the public. This is the best shot I could get with my cell phone.  

St. James Effigy Close-Up, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaSt. James Effigy Close-Up

Behind the altar of St. James, head towards the left side to queue in a line delineated with ropes. From the rear of the altar, accessed by a stairway you can climb up and embrace the Saint. Embracing Santiago is the pilgrim's second task.

As the pilgrim climbs up the stairs, behind the altar, the vision below is the backside of the Saint, which the pilgrim embraces. When I took this photo, I was scolded by a Spanish pilgrim who told me that photos of Santiago were not allowed! I suppose I am being irreverent by posting this photo, but I wanted to portray a more tangible experience of it all!

Embrace Santiago, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaTo Embrace St. James

Third Task of the Pilgrim Upon Entering the Cathedral

The pilgrim's tour of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is not finished until she makes the final steps down below the altar, immediately under the effigy of St. James to view his tomb. In this silver box is said to lie the bones of the St. James.

Tomb of St. James, Santiago de Compostela CathedralTomb of St. James

After viewing the tomb and perhaps praying on the kneeling bench there, the pilgrim's tasks are done.

A Brief Interior Tour

Then, the rest of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela can be toured. This is the cross nave, below, with the large doors called the Puerta de Azabachería, which accesses the cathedral from the north side. It is through this cross nave that the botafumerio is swung.

Puerta de Azabachería and the Cross Nave, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaPuerta de Azabachería and the Cross Nave

There are many, many side altars surrounding the main naves of the cathedral, each and every one notable. The one below, while I have no information, looked to be extremely old. So simple, yet I thought this one to be the most beautiful .

Old Wooden Side Altar, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaOld Wooden Side Altar

Here is one of the more ornate side altars:

Ornate Side Altar, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaOrnate Side Altar

Additional Plazas of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Surrounding the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, are four distinct plazas on the north, south, east and west. From each of these plazas, you can access the cathedral from the four points of the Latin cross. All medieval cathedrals are in the shape of the cross and when you get the orientation of the cathedral and its squares, it becomes easier to navigate the vastness of it!

I have already introduced you to the most famous plaza on the western side, where all pilgrimages to Santiago end, the Plaza de Obradoiro. Now let me introduce you to the remaining three.

The Puerta Santa and the Plaza de la Quintana

The famous cathedral clock tower can be seen prominently from the Plaza de la Quintana to the east, and the Plaza de Platerías (see below) from the south.

From many places in Santiago de Compostela, one can see the prominent clock tower, looming above the city. It certainly helped me keep my bearings as I navigated through it.

Cathedral Clock Tower, Plaza de la Quintana, Santiago de CompostelaFamous Cathedral Clock Tower

The photo, below, is also of the Plaza de la Quintana. From this plaza, you can see the "Holy Door" or the Puerta Santa, to the far right, which is only opened in Holy Years. I was not there in a holy year, and have heard that the city is absolutely packed on those years. A Holy Year is when St. James Day (July 25th) falls on a Sunday.

The Plaza de la Quintana is a bustling hub of activity, and on a sunny day many street acts can be seen.

Plaza de la Quintana and the Puerta Santa, Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, SpainPlaza de la Quintana and the Puerta Santa

Here is the Puerta Santa, closer-up. Above the Puerta Santa, you can gaze up at Santiago, in his pilgrim's guise and staff, who lords over the entryway. I was enthralled by his image, as a pilgrim, seen everywhere around the cathedral.

Puerta Santa, Cathedral of Sanitago de CompostelaPuerta Santa with St. James as a Pilgrim

Below is a photo of the Puerta Santa from inside the cathedral. It depicts the life of St. James. When I took this photo, I did not realize what it was. I was only attracted to this wonderful old wood carving, and realized immediately that it showed the life of St. James, including his beheading, and arrival by boat on the shores near Santiago de Compostela.

Puerta Santa, Cathedral of Sanitago de CompostelaPuerta Santa on the Inside

Plaza de Platerías

The Southern aspect of the cathedral opens to the Plaza de Platerías. Attendees of mass use this entrance to enter and exit through the cross nave and the Puerta de Platerías (Silversmith's Door).

Plaza de Platerías, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaPlaza de Platerías and the Clock Tower to the Right

Close-up of the Puerta de Platarías, shows the only remaining Romanesque façade from the 11th century, below and the south portal to the cathedral.

Puerta de Platarías, Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, SpainPuerta de Platarías

The opposite side of the plaza, looking from the cathedral steps toward the fountain of horses. These lovely old buildings frame the square.

Plaza de Platerías, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaPlaza de Platerías View from the Cathedral Steps

Plaza de la Inmaculada

On the northern side of the cathedral is the Inmaculada Square and the Puerta de Azabachería. This is the door that I personally entered into the cathedral for the first time. Within this plaza lies the final steps of the French Way, the English Way and the Northern Ways of St. James.

Plaza de la Inmaculada, Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaPlaza de la Inmaculada

Immediately opposite the cathedral in this square is the Hospedería San Martín Pinario, an old monastery established in the 10th century where the monks were charged with monitoring the worship of St. James' relics and later became a university. It was in this monastery, where all the money flowing in from the pilgrims to Santiago, was given in alms to the poor. 

Also known as the Seminario Mayor, or Major Seminary, it now houses a hostel/hotel and a museum. I stayed in this hotel (a separate, huge section that used to house the monks) and it was quite inexpensive and very convenient next to the cathedral. Click here to see more of this wonderful place to stay. (You must call or email ahead for the pilgrim accommodations/rates, at (+34) 981 560 282 or reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu and not book online. If you want the full hotel treatment for a splurge, go ahead and get the best rates online through the link I provided).

Seminario Mayor, Santiago de Compostela, SpainSeminario Mayor
Seminario Mayor, Garden View, Santiago de Compostela, SpainGarden View of the Seminario Mayor

I hope you have enjoyed your tour of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and its plazas via your armchair! It is my wish that you two could take a personal pilgrimage to this most sacred site. My words and photos cannot do justice to your own personal experience of the this place!

Godspeed and Buen Camino to Santiago de Compostela!




More Articles on Santiago and the Camino:




› Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela









New! Comments

Have you had a similar experience, or have something you'd like to share? We would love to hear from you! Please leave us a comment in the box below.



Search This Website:





Search This Website:





Black Diamond Carbon Z-Poles

Our recommendation for the best trekking pole. Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) makes them ultra light weight and invisible to airport security x-rays! Carry on the aircraft anywhere and save yourself lots of headaches. It worked repeatedly for us! Also hide your poles in your pack from potential thieves, before you get to your albergue! (See more of our gear recommendations!)






Our Recommended Discount Retailer for your Trail Clothing and Gear Needs!


Sierra Trading Post


My absolute favorite book on how to be a pilgrim: