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Day One on the Camino Primitivo is a short and sweet walk, when combined with a 6.2 kilometer jaunt to the Naranco Sites, makes for a respectable first stage on the Camino Primitivo.
"It is often when the outside world fails us that we realize that the source of real resilience lives within. It is through the resources of the inward journey that we survive change, cataclysmic events, and even death itself." ~ Dr. Sheryl A. Kujawa-Holbrook, "Pilgrimage - The Sacred Art: Journey to the Center of the Heart"
All total our day one on the Camino Primitivo was a full 19 kilometers, which included our 6.2 km. walk to the Naranco Sites (click here for this route description to/from Oviedo).
After visiting the Naranco Sites, we decided just to walk back down the mountain, into town and pick up the route near the train station. We did this instead of taking a described shortcut from Naranco onward.
There were several reasons we chose to do this:
Firstly, I wanted to actually walk the complete route from town, mostly to challenge myself and my route finding skills, as I had heard that many people lost their way walking thru Oviedo. We had walked the initial steps from the Cathedral of Oviedo, the evening before, so we picked up the route from the Calle Melquiades Álvarez where it intersects with the Calle de la Independencia. (See map below.)
Secondly, I wanted to officially walk the actual Camino Primitivo. I wanted to do the Original Way from the official start to the official finish. Call me a purist!
The third reason I wanted to return to town was that I was nervous about the shortcut, even though it is described in various sources. There are no waymarks on the shortcut, and while I knew I could do it, it didn't seem that far out of the way to simply return to town.
When standing at the Miguel de Lillo Church (See the map on the Naranco page), it was not easy to find this shortcut. All we could see was a field where the path was supposed to be, looking quite uninviting. A young woman from Russia that we met at the church decided to try this shortcut. We wished her luck as she went on her way.
It barely took us 30 minutes to hoof it down the hill of Monte Naranco, back towards the train tracks and the Original Way.
Because so many folks get lost walking through Oviedo, please study the map I have included. While it isn't always easy to find the Camino, if you pay attention to the signs you will be fine. The "signs," as in life are there, if you are willing to see them! You must stay alert, know your route and be prepared.
While walking through town, pay attention to the street beneath your feet. For the first several kilometers through town, every time you are required to make a change in direction, there will be a bronze shell under your feet on the pavement!
Just beware that the direction of travel on the Asturian shells are from the rays to the point of the shell. In the photo, this means you are walking toward the benches in the upper part of the photo.
This movement of travel is exactly opposite as what exists when you reach the region of Galicia, where the direction of travel reverses!
But the pilgrimage traveler is always open and ready to adapt to the culture she finds herself in, right? You will need to adapt in Asturias, Spain, or you WILL get lost!
Below is a map of our entire day one through Oviedo on our Camino Primitivo. The GPS maps which I have created on Google are entirely interactive. If you have a data plan in Spain you can just keep the map up to help you if you lose the shells.
There are plenty of services on this short leg's journey, that I placed on the map for your planning, such as cafés, grocery stores, albergues and other accommodations. For advance reservations in Oviedo, click here.
Click on the map, move it around, zoom, expand and whatever you need to do to help you see where to walk! Click on the right upper hand corner square to get a large map in a separate window.
Because of our decision to first visit the Naranco sites first on day one of the Camino Primitivo, our goal for the day was Escamplero. If you choose to go farther, as you can see from the elevation profile below, the stage is much longer. Many pilgrims stop in Escamplero at the municipal albergue there, as we did. The albergue is shown on the interactive map above.
After Escamplero, it is a long, long way to the next albergue,in Grado. I was not prepared for the amount of hills present on day one of the Camino Primitivo! For some reason I expected it to be easier and it was not!
Here I am, below, at a typical waymark in Oviedo. Note the direction of travel shown by the yellow arrow. Always go toward the point on the shell where the rays come together. (This is only while in Asturias, it changes in Galicia!)
As you know, from the introduction to the Camino Primitivo, the official start is at the Cathedral of Oviedo.
You leave the cathedral at the plaque directly across from the statue of King Alfonso II just to the left of the main entrance (see article on Oviedo for more information.) This street is the Calle del Águila. Walk a few meters north and take the first left onto the Calle Schultz. Walk barely 100 meters, and turn right onto the Plaza San Juan. 50 meters later, turn left onto the Calle Jovellanos followed by an immediate right onto the Calle Luna.
After 100 meters along the Calle Luna, turn left and then an immediate right onto the Calle Covadonga. It is important to not go immediately across to the street ahead but to take the more left street you see across the intersection.
Don't forget to continue to look down on the pavement for a bronze shell, whenever there is a turn, to confirm that you are going the correct way!
Follow the Calle Covadonga, which becomes the Calle Alvarez, then the Calle de la Independencia, for about 800 meters, until you come to the main route, the N-634.
Turn left onto the N-634, crossing over to the north side when directed. In about 230 meters, at the next large roundabout, take a right turn, avoiding the roundabout, to head northward a few meters until you see a lovely pedestrian way to your left. Take this pedestrian way to the left and walk for 150 meters.
Come to the end of the pedestrian way, and another large roundabout. Cross to the left, continuing around the roundabout, picking up the second left-hand street, called the Calle Argañosa.
Follow the Calle Argañosa for 3/4 kilometer. Come to a small roundabout, stay right and turn right onto a side street toward the Argañosa train station. Cross the railroad tracks up and over the pedestrian bridge.
After crossing the railroad tracks, take the first right turn onto the Calle Bermudo I. Walk on this street for about 100 meters and take a left turn onto the next street for 80 meters.
Take the next right onto to the Calle Illas. Walk on it for 120 meters or so, until you come to the divided street called the Paseo de la Florida. Take heart because you are almost through town!
After 300 meters, a right turn at the next roundabout, and you approach a park on the Calle Corvera where you will see your first official Camino Primitivo sign accompanied by a waymark! (Too bad it was messed up by graffiti.) Below is a photo of my husband at this park.
From the park, the Calle Corvera becomes a paved walking path. Follow the paved walkway down the hill and then to the right, following the waymarks to the Calle Muros del Nalón.
You did it! You are through Oviedo. The signs are relatively easy to follow from here.
Once the pilgrimage travelers reached the Calle Muros del Nalón just outside of Oviedo we happened on a hunched little old man with a walking cane approaching us.
He stopped us and in Spanish (which I surprisingly understood) told us not to take a right where the signs would indicate, but continue on the Calle Muros del Nalón for a while longer, then take a shortcut to the right on Calle San Lázaro de Paniceres instead.
Even though I understood the man, I double-checked my map, and sure enough, it appeared to be a reasonable shortcut so we took it. Gotta love the locals!
Did this little old gentleman ply this street on a daily basis, just to interact with the many pilgrimage travelers so that he could assist them?? I will never know, but I sure wanted to believe this to be true. What a lovely interaction it was!
During our shortcut, we got ahead of two Spaniards that had been closely following us. Now I know we are not supposed to be in a race on the Way of St. James, but I still noticed my competitive tendency!
The shortcut allowed me to be able to relieve myself in more privacy further on, an urgent necessity at the time!
Further along, we found this lovely spot, below for our lunch break with a grand view!
This lunch spot is where the young Russian woman that we met at the Naranco sites, caught up to us to tell us that the shortcut from Naranco was not good. She stated that not only did she get lost, but because there was no path through the brush, she got her bare legs all scratched up. I was glad to have made the choice we did, to return to town.
Her "shortcut" took longer than our sojourn back to town, which was longer by 2.3 kilometers. This is an interesting life metaphor, don't you think? Shortcuts may seem appropriate, however, they may not be as effective as the "slow" journey!
In the late summer, we encountered many a road or lane flanked on each side by hedges of black raspberry bushes. The photo below shows them in all their fruitful glory!
My husband, Rich, a die-hard berry picker, was in heaven. Every chance he could get he'd stop to pick a hand full to jam into his mouth! I would look back often, to see him picking! I would also stop and I too would gorge on the wonderful, sun-ripened fruit.
On day one on the Camino Primitivo one arrives in this first lovely little hamlet of Lloriana and the 12th century church of Santa María de Lloriana.
By the church is a fountain, where you can soak your tired feet. We had heard, later on our pilgrimage, that a fellow peregrino had become ill with gastrointestinal symptoms on the 2nd day on the Original Way. He blamed one of the first fuentes (fountain) on day one of the Camino Primitivo for his illness. We did not drink from this one, so I cannot validate this talk.
The church was surrounded by gorgeous hydrangeas, and the path was so inviting. However, the church was closed, as many are along the Camino Primitivo.
From this waymark, opposite the church, you may be able to see that Escamplero is only 2.9 kilometers.
The Way after Lloriana takes the pilgrim along a wonderful country lane for about half a kilometer. The quaint countryside along the way enchanted me. This is hilly, verdant country! I shot photos of so many cows and other animals.
The stone walls that lined the country lanes also enchanted me. Here is Rich walking on as I stopped to breathe in this photo.
I truly was in some euphoria on day one of my Camino Primitivo!
A local's iron gate served as a reminder that we had only just begun our pilgrimage ~ 296 km to go! I sent a silent blessing to this Camino supporter as I captured this moment in time.
So many eye-catching treasures to relish! The personal grotto on the left and the towering delphiniums on the right.
Thanks to one of my readers, Olatz Urturi, I have been informed that the statue in red on the ledge in the photo, below left, is not Santa Claus, but Our Lady of Covadonga and the grotto next to her is the shrine where she is (you can see another smaller Lady of Covadonga inside it). She's the patron saint of Asturias. He says the actual grotto is in the mountains over a waterfall and is a beautiful place. See Our Lady of Covadonga for more information.
Unfortunately, there is a lot of pavement walking on day one of the Camino Primitivo. My lovely country lane soon gave way to the AS-232, which you must walk a lot of the way from here to Venta de Escamplero. The road takes you through Ponte de Gallegos (Galician Bridge) thru a small diversion off the highway, to this 13th century bridge, below, with a stone sculpture.
I loved the region of Asturias, Spain, because all the historical sites are so well marked, along the Original Way!
After the Ponte de Gallegos, the pilgrim has to climb a long hill on the highway, AS-232 and thru the town of Gallegos. It is not as pleasant. Here is the beginning of the long hill, below.
Shortly after leaving the town of Gallegos, the Way suddenly veers off the AS-232 and joins a path into the forest as I show in the photo below.
The forest path joins a dirt lane for much continued relief from the pavement on our day one of the Camino Primitivo.
Eventually the lane joins a narrow side road in the town of Escamplero, which goes on to rejoin the AS-232, as it climbs the ongoing long hill finally to the top. Here the pilgrim needs to leave the AS-232 and turn right onto the AS-233 then left on the AS-234, which takes you toward the municipal albergue of Venta de Escamplero.
As it turned out, had we stayed on the the AS-232 after Gallegos we would have walked a more direct and shorter route into Escamplero. However, one cannot complain about the more scenic way, I guess.
You are exactly where you need to be when you see the sign to the El Tendejón Restaurant, shortly after leaving the AS-232 in about half a kilometer. The restaurant sign is shown below.
If you walk down the hill from the sign, the main entrance to the restaurant can be found, with outdoor tables and a marvelous view of the mountains to the west. It is here in the bar that you register for the municipal albergue. Please take note that the restaurant is closed on Wednesdays, so look for the board outside with the telephone number to call if you arrive on a Wednesday!
The municipal albergue is actually about another 400 meters down the road from the restaurant where you sign in, so it can be confusing. If you go to the albergue first, you must go back to the Restaurante El Tendejón to register and pay for the night.
Although the photo doesn't show it, the restaurant indoors was packed at 3 pm with locals finishing their long Saturday lunch. If you don't know the Spanish culture regarding meal times, you may want to read my Camino Trip Planning Tips to ensure that you are not caught during siesta when getting nourishment is a challenging proposition.
We hung out on the patio, had a beer and then a café con leche. This was often our pattern - a beer followed by coffee - one to refresh us, and then one to wake us up again so we wouldn't fall asleep! We didn't want to miss a thing.
The Asturian San Miguel beer was especially light and refreshing that first afternoon on the Camino and it soon became our favorite.
Please keep in mind, that if you are planning to eat at this restaurant and you arrive on a Wednesday when it is closed, there is not another restaurant in Escamplero. There is a butcher shop down the street from the Tendejón, which I recall had some other items for sale in addition to meat, but this is a small town and your best bet may be to get your groceries in Oviedo if you plan to cook in the albergue.
Since we arrived early in the afternoon, we decided to chase down a site marked by a brown signpost we had passed, at the top of the hill where the Camino Primitivo left the AS-232. There was a church called the San Pedro de Nora that appeared to be worth a look, just outside of town. We thought this because the sign was a brown one, the color used to mark sites of cultural interest in Asturias, Spain.
We set off to find the church, but as the road wound down the hill ever more steeply, I decided I was too tired to climb back up the hill on the return. 19 kilometers was enough for the first day. I was disappointed that I had not found it.
I was even more disappointed that I had not found the church when I looked up where the site was on Google, when I put this article together. It is a fabulous, well-preserved, 9th century Romanesque church! Check out this website and the photos of it here. Had I realized it was so glorious, I would have taken a taxi to see it.
When looking on the map, the San Pedro de Nora is a full 3.4 kilometers from the Restaurante El Tendejón! It would have been a long, long walk down the hill to the Nora River and back up.
Below is the picture of the municipal albergue of Escamplero in Asturias, Spain. It has several rooms, two that contained two bunks and slept four, one with a triple bunk that slept three and two large open rooms containing quite a few bunks.
We were lucky enough to get the room down the back stairs with the triple bunk, but no one took the highest bed, so we had a private room. The albergue was not totally full in late August when we were there.
It was clean, comfortable and very basic. We did not join the other pilgrims in cooking here, as we wanted to try the wonderful looking restaurant that was so packed for lunch!
The "Comida Typica" (typical food) on the menu for dinner was typical for the region of Asturias, Spain. It started out with an ensalada (salad) with sugar-coated walnuts and blue cheese, followed by veal thinly cut with ham and cheese stuffed in between the two filets. Absolutely one of the best meals we had in Asturias, and I highly recommend the Restaurante El Tendejón. Indeed, the portions were quite large, so consider sharing this meal if you decide to have it!
It was here in Escamplero on day one of our Camino Primitivo that we first met a wonderful lady that my husband was to dub the "Camino Mother." If you continue to follow my daily stories, you will see that she became a vital part of our Camino Family.
At first, Camino Mother was not very appealing to us, since we thought she was rather loud and bossy. In fact, we made a note to ourselves to avoid her! However, as good families do, she soon was to be absorbed within our group, a vital part of its cohesiveness and its uniqueness.
Luckily for us, despite the misty start of the day, it never did rain, allowing our day one on the Camino Primitivo to be very enjoyable. The whole day was euphoric for me, as it was my first day back on the road again! The Camino Road, that is. And I was lovin' it!
I hope you enjoyed your vicarious walk as I led you from Oviedo to Venta de Escamplero on day one of the Camino Primitivo!
May you too find your own pilgrim's way along the ancient and Original Way. May you walk between the liminal spaces of security and adventure, where you are better able to meet yourself in the moment! Buen Camino!
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