Variante Espiritual: Camino Portugués ~ Embrace a Mystical Detour!

Disclosure: the PilgrimageTraveler.com is an associate of Booking.com, Roamless, and Amazon. As associates of these merchants, we earn from qualifying purchases from our links.

Automatic Last Updated Date (Date Only)

Last Updated:

What is the Variante Espiritual on the Camino Portugués? The mystically captivating Variante Espiritual, or the Spiritual Variant as it is also known, is part of the larger Camino de Santiago and a longer variant, bifurcating from the Central Route of the Camino Portugués.

The Variante Espiritual begins 3.2 kilometers north of Pontevedra, where it diverges from the Central Route, and continues for 45.1 kilometers overland to Vilanova de Arousa. The variant concludes with a unique 26.5 kilometer boat ride, along the only Maritime Way of the Cross, from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures via the Río Ulla.

As the Spiritual Variant continues to grow in popularity, it carries with it a lot of hype! I hadn't heard a single negative thing about this route from the moment my interest in it first arose. The question that I asked myself before embarking on this pilgrimage is this: Does the Variante Espiritual live up to its hype?

I can answer with a resounding "Yes!" Any lengthy walking pilgrimage can be a transformative adventure, promising self-discovery, a physical challenge, and even more "Camino Magic" as we can call it. This route truly offered it all.

For me, this route was the most enchanting of any part of any Camino de Santiago that I have walked. That's a lot of hype, isn't it?

"To be enchanted is to be comfortable with the fact that not everything can be explained; to tolerate, even welcome, the presence of mystery. It is to be challenged, to be awakened, to be gripped and shaken to the core by the extraordinary which lies at the heart of the ordinary. " ~ The Enchanted Life: Unlocking the Magic of the Everyday by Sharon Blackie.

🙋‍♀️ Why Trust Us at the Pilgrimage Traveler?

Rich and Elle on Traslatio Boat Ride, Variante Espiritual

We’re not a travel agency ~ we’re fellow pilgrims! (See About Us)

We've trekked Pilgrimage Routes Across Europe since 2014!

💬 We’ve:

Gotten lost so you don’t have to. 😉
Followed waymarks in the glowing sunlight, the pouring rain and by moonlight. ☀️🌧️🌙
Slept in albergues, hostels & casa rurals. Ate and drank in cafés along the way. 🛌 😴
Created comprehensive and downloadable GPS maps and eBook Guides, full of must-have information based on real pilgrimage travels. 🧭 🗺️
Shared our complete journeys, step by step to help YOU plan your ultimate pilgrimage and walk with your own Heart and Soul. 💙✨

Every detail is from our own experiences. Just fellow pilgrims sharing the Way. We have added a touch of spirituality, heartfelt insights and practical guidance from the road ~ offering a genuine connection to the spirit of pilgrimage. Tap into the wisdom of seasoned pilgrims!

Ultreia and Safe Pilgrimage Travels, Caminante! 💫 💚 🤍

The Variante Espiritual Unique Waymarks

How Many Days Does it Take to Walk the Variante Espiritual?

The usual time taken to walk the 45 kilometers of the Spiritual Variant, is 2-3 days, plus the 2- hour boat ride. Click here to jump to our staging recommendations.

When is the Best Time to Walk the Variante Espiritual Camino Portugués?

The spring and fall are the best times to walk a Camino because the weather is more pleasant with warm days and cool nights. However, you never really know what future weather situations will bring!

The best way to predict what type of weather you will have is by going to Weather Spark for past climate averages. Just change the city name to "Combarro" or "Pontevedra" to see the normal weather averages for these towns along the route. Choose your month according to this information and your preferences.

How Busy is the Spiritual Variant of the Portuguese Way?

The Pilgrim's Office in Santiago does not separately track the numbers of pilgrims on the Variante. However, the Portuguese Way is the second most popular Camino with over 170,000 pilgrims receiving Compostelas in 2024 after completing one of the many routes from Portugal. Click here for the pilgrim's office link for its statistics.

Because all the Portuguese routes converge in Redondela, just before the beginning of the Spiritual Variant in Pontevedra, that's a lot of potential pilgrims making choices to take the variant!

The worst choke point for accommodation is in Armenteira, so my advice is to book as early as possible. Click here for the Booking.com Armenteira accommodations if you prefer a hotel/casa rural. There are two albergues in town, both are private and accept reservations, the Albergue de Peregrinos de Armenteira, and the Albergue Armenteira SL (+34 666 22 54 61). There is also the highly favored, ancient Cistercian monastery, the Monasterio de Armenteira. Good luck!

Also according these statistics, for all Caminos, May through September are the busiest months of the year by far, with August as the busiest, followed by September, then May.

Where is the Official Starting Point of the Variante Espiritual?

Most guides describe the official starting point to be in Pontevedra, because it is the nearest town and most pilgrims end their prior stage there. However, the Spiritual Variant does not officially begin until after 3.2 kilometers north of the center of Pontevedra. It shares the Camino with the central route up to this point.

There is a special waymark and sign that designates the bifurcation of the two routes, and at this official starting point, the Variante Espiritual takes the bridge to the left at this sign. Click here to see the waymark at the official starting point. It is not hard to find.

Do You Have to Take a Boat on the Variante Espiritual?

No, of course not. You can walk this stage: just jump to my maps section to see how. At 30€ per person, the boat ride may be a budget constraint (see the next section). However, it is the highlight of this route and is the "Spiritual" part of the Spiritual Variante. Click to jump to the explanation!

How Much Will it Cost Per Person, Per Day for the Variante Espiritual?

Traveling in Spain is more affordable than other European destinations. Some pilgrims get by on less than 20€/day, but most pilgrims spend an average of about 40-50€/day.

You can economize by staying in the government-supported municipal albergues (10€ in 2025) and supermarket meals only. I met a pilgrim who ate nothing but bread and cheese his entire Camino, mostly for spiritual reasons.

The most expensive option is to stay in hotels and casa rurals (country homes), especially if you are single! Scroll down to use my interactive map and compare prices.

What is the Best Packing List for this Portuguese Variante?

I get asked this question frequently, so here is my suggested packing list. This list is a great place to start and can be altered for your specific needs.

Maps and Stats of the Variante Espiritual

Most people take two days to easily walk the 45.1 kilometers of the overland portion of this route from Pontevedra to Vilanova de Arousa. Vilanova de Arousa is where most pilgrims end the walking segment. However, if you are coming from the longer Central Route and find yourself staying overnight in a town before Pontevedra, as we did, you may wish to do it in three.

Here is our map of the entire route from Pontevedra, for you to preview, plan, and prepare for the Variante Espiritual of the Camino Portugués. It is fully interactive, and I include features that are pertinent to the pilgrimage traveler, like accommodations, fountains, churches, places to rest and eat, etc. Just click on a feature to see more information, and for direct links to accommodations.

On the map, I include the route of the boat ride in a lighter shade of blue to distinguish it from the walking pilgrimage. The boat ride lasts about two hours, arriving in Pontecesures which is only three kilometers from Padrón.

Vilanova de Arousa is where most pilgrims end their overland journey. However, if you prefer to walk the 32 kilometers from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, the alternative walking route is shown in red. I have not walked this route but provide it for your convenience.

Click here for a direct link to this Variante Espiritual map, if you wish to open and retain it on your own device. The map that opens on your device will have all these same features that you see below. It has all that you will need to plan a successful Camino! It's like having a maps-only guide to the Camino!

🌍 Map Like a Pro: Step-by-Step Guide to Using My Interactive Maps*

On a Laptop:

Initial View: Click "View larger map" (upper-right).
Re-access: Go to maps.google.com → "Saved" icon (left taskbar) → "Maps" (far right).

On a Mobile Device (Google Maps App - Recommended):

Initial View: Tap "View larger map" (upper-right). May open in app or browser. Tap "Save" if your browser asks.
Re-access: Open app → "You" or "Saved" (bottom taskbar) → scroll down → "Maps" (lower right).

On a Mobile Device (Browser):

Initial View: Tap "View larger map" (upper-right). May open in app or browser. Tap "Save" if your browser asks.
Re-access: Go to maps.google.com → dropdown under "Google Maps" → "My Maps."

💡 PRO TIP: Using My Interactive Google Map for GPS Navigation

Jump to this page for downloading instructions.
Jump to this page for uploading instructions.

*Note that my maps are not offline maps, but you will need to have a data plan for full functionality. However, you can use them offline. For instructions on how to do that, please click here.

Staying Connected with an eSIM:

If your wish is to stay connected and your mobile device supports eSIMs, it’s the easiest way to go. No need to swap physical SIM cards—you just activate a virtual one on your phone. eSIMs let you buy data plans online, so you're connected the moment you arrive. It is so simple!

Why I Recommend Roamless:

I personally use Roamless for its pay-as-you-go model and seamless global coverage. The inexpensive data never expires, making it perfect for long or multi-country trips. Activate it only once and never have to swap physical cards or eSIMs ever again, even when traveling to multiple countries across multiple dates. Find out more by clicking here and be an informed pilgrimage traveler!

Jump to Camino Portugués Stages

The "Spiritual" Part of the Variante Espiritual, Camino Portugués

Much of the enchantment of the Camino Portugués along the Variante Espiritual is the unique boat ride that not only offers a refreshing break from walking but also serves a significant historic purpose.

The boat ride mimics the legendary maritime journey, called the Traslatio de Santiago (or transfer of St. James). According to tradition, the apostles transported the body of St. James in 44 CE by boat, from the Holy Land and up the River Ulla into Padrón. There it was laid on a rock altar or sarcophagus (known as a Padrón in Spanish and hence the name of the town), prior to his final overland journey to Santiago de Compostela.

This altar is actually of Roman origin, with inscriptions referring to the god, Neptune. Regardless, pilgrims have revered this altar for centuries, giving it an ethereal quality. It is now on display under the main altar in the Igrexa de Santiago Apóstolo de Padrón. You may wish to visit this spiritual site when you go to Padrón. To read more about the legends of Padrón, click here for one resource.

Some legends say this same "rock" altar was the mooring stone where his boat was tied. Some state the boat which carried Santiago was made of stone, therefore naming the town! The legends regarding the Traslatio abound and all have a bit of a different twist!

What is significant is that the Variante Espiritual attempts to connect pilgrims with the route’s rich religious history, thereby making it a Spiritual Variant. With the legend in mind, it is easy to see how the Variante Espiritual on the Camino Portugués got its name!

Boarding the Boat to Pontecesures Before Dawn

There are 17 crosses along this river, the "Maritime Way of the Cross," and it is the only maritime way of the cross in the world. Of the 17 crosses, only 12 are visible along the shoreline where the boat travels.

Here are three of the most famous crosses, called the Calvario, commemorating St. James and his two favorite disciples Anastasio and Teodoro, who were responsible for organizing and leading the maritime journey of the Traslatio.

Three Crosses, the Calvario of Punto Patiño, Along the Río Ulla

And pictured next is the ruined West Towers of the Torres do Oeste, also along the river. Look out for these towers with a small ruined chapel inside, as you are nearing a viaduct overhead. It is almost right under it.

Torres do Oeste, Along the Río Ulla, on the Boat Ride of the Variante Espiritual, Camino Portugués

The Ruined Torres do Oeste, Along the Río Ulla

You may wish to book your boat trip several days ahead, especially if you are traveling in the high season summer months. See day four for more information on your choices of boats and how to book.

To complete your exploration of the Variante Espiritual, you might also wish to climb the Santiaguiño do Monte in Padrón where Santiago was said to have preached. This site is also a spiritual site that existed long before St. James arrived. You can read more about it in my narrative of day twenty-four.

While any lengthy walking journey offers the pilgrimage traveler the chance for a transformative, inner journey, the Variante Espiritual seems more conducive to the possibility!

The incredibly peaceful monasteries of Poio and Armenteira offer the pilgrim a respite from daily life and worries.

Mosteiro de Santa María da Armenteira

And finally the sublimely shady and mossy forest walk on the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga is unparalleled in its charm. This trail system that begins after Armenteira and continues for a full 8.2 kilometers along the Rego da Armenteira (a river channel), passing by historic flour mills called muiños and waterfalls, will transport you to another place and time.

Muiño da Ponte

Moss-Covered, Ruined Muiño with Grist Millstone

The Ruta da Pedra e da Auga, the Route of Stone and Water is deeply calming. The easy downhill along the river is like no other river path I have been on. We intentionally slowed down our pace, savoring every moment.

This peaceful path is just calling your name loudly, to slow down, breathe, and bathe in the lush forest trees and the flowing water. Never is there a calling stronger, inviting you to move internally to a place of Love and Peace.

The monasteries call strongly to one's soul as well. For me, however, the call from the "Cathedral of Nature" is even more wondrous and enchanting than that of monasteries.

As Sharon Blackie says in the quote above, it is to be awakened by the extraordinary which lies at the heart of the ordinary. Yet, this is no ordinary place...

The Verdant Walk Along the Rego da Armenteira

Jump to Camino Portugués Stages

Staging the Variante Espiritual, Camino Portugués

Here are the classic, most commonly walked stages:

Day One: Pontevedra to Armenteira, 21 kilometers
Day Two: Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa, 24.2 kilometers
Day Three: 2 Hour Boat Ride, Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, 26.5 Kilometers

However, since we walked in the morning from Arcade to Pontevedra, which is only 13 kilometers, we decided to keep on going to Combarro for a respectable 24.3 kilometer day.

This was our itinerary:

Day One: Pontevedra to Combarro, 11.3 Kilometers
Day Two: Combarro to Barrantes, 16.3 Kilometers
Day Three: Barrantes to Vilanova de Arousa, 17.5 Kilometers
Day Four: 2-Hour Boat ride, Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, 26.5 Kilometers

Because the boat ride was only two hours and left at dawn, we disembarked at 10 a.m., easily walking another 20 kilometers to Milladouro to complete our day. I do not even count the boat ride day as a "day," because of this. Unless, of course, you want to explore the town of Padrón and stay overnight there.

The advantage of a longer 2.5 - 3 day walk, if you have the extra time, is five-fold:

First, you can enjoy more time at the Mosteiro de San Xoán de Poio, 8.6 kilometers from Pontevedra in the town of Poio, an inviting monastery to heighten the spiritual aspect of your journey. Some quiet, contemplative time here will reward you with Peace, Presence, and maybe even some insight. You never know until you open yourself to the possibility.

This monastery in my opinion is more beautiful than the one in Armenteira which gets all the praise for some reason. I suppose it's all about the herd mentality, so dare to go your own road and spend some time here. I wish we had spent more time here and planned better for its opening hours.

Mosteiro de San Xoán de Poio

Second, you can enjoy a long afternoon and evening in the extraordinary historic fishing port of Combarro and its distinctive hórreos (traditional grain stores) right along the seacoast.

Seaside Hórreos of Combarro at Daybreak

The medieval architecture in this town speaks volumes about its past glory and the local Galician people's resilience. And the food? It's an unforgettable blend of the abundant local seafood and traditional Spanish cuisine. If you can't stay for the evening, by all means try to have lunch at the waterfront! And make your lunch even richer by washing it down with the local Albariño wine!

Quaintly Preserved Medieval Street of Combarro

I most highly recommend the pilgrimage traveler spend some time here! Be mindful, however, that this is a tourist town, but it was very sedate for us in September. The river beach, while nice, is not that lovely, so I would be surprised if the summer crowds here are similar to other Spanish beach towns.

Here is a photo of the cross called the Cruceiro Praia do Padrón, and an hórreo and other medieval buildings on the beachfront in Combarro at daybreak.

Cruceiro Praia do Padrón, Hórreo and Medieval Buildings on the Beachfront in Combarro

Third: You are totally fresh on the 2nd day for the unrelenting, 6.8 kilometer and 420 meter (1378 feet) climb from Combarro towards Armenteira. This part of the Variante Espiritual on the Camino Portugués is not to be underestimated, especially at the end of the pilgrimage day. Here is the fantastic view of the Ría de Pontevedra that you will see as you climb up and out of Combarro.

Harbor View Over Combarro

Fourth: If you want the albergue experience, you will be competing for beds in the albergues there.

Fortunately, it is getting easier, as there are currently three albergues as the demand continues to outpace the supply. See my day two for more information.

Fifth: The Variante Espiritual of the Camino Portugués is absolutely a route to be savored like a fine wine! It is not to be rushed, but relished each and every moment. You can feel your enthusiasm for this pilgrimage rise as you hopefully converge with a more quiet introspective approach that will set the tone for the rest of your journey!

Playa del Terron, Vilanova de Arousa, Variante Espiritual, Camino Portugués

👣 Camino Portugués eBook Guides

Camino Portugués, Lisbon to Porto eBook Cover

Camino Portugués, Coastal Route, eBook Cover

Camino Portugués, Central Route, eBook Cover

Variante Espiritual, Camino Portugués, EBook Cover

Tap here or any eBook Cover Above for More Information on Our Downloadable Camino Portugués eBook Guides in PDF Format.

Enjoy all the valuable info from our web pages ~ offline, ad-free, and lightweight. Why carry a heavy guidebook when you can use a nimble digital version on your device?

Our guides are frequently updated and uniquely entertaining, as we share our own Camino story along the way.

Buy only what you need ~ or grab all four for the price of three (25% savings). Click here for more information or BUY NOW at only 17.85!

Salutation

May you seriously consider walking this short Camino in its own right, the Variante Espiritual of the Camino Portugués! I hope my introduction has convinced you to add it to your itinerary!

The Variante Espiritual is not merely a pilgrimage route. It’s a metaphorical terrestrial map guiding the pilgrimage traveler towards self-awareness, personal reflections, and if desired, towards spiritual growth.

So, whether you're an experienced or novice pilgrim, or someone seeking a deeper understanding of life, prepare to embark on an enchanting journey that the Variante Espiritual pilgrimage promises.

Vineyards and Variante Espiritual Waymark Along the Rego da Armenteira

And may you be "comfortable with the fact that not everything can be explained." And may you "tolerate, even welcome, the presence of mystery" when you walk the Camino Portugués, Variante Epiritual. Ultreia!

Camino Portugués Stages

Skip to Central Route Below, for Final Days 22-25 to Santiago

Central Route: Porto to Santiago

Day Fifteen ~ Sé do Porto to Vairão (Vilarinho), 25.2 Km (15.66 Miles) via the Central Route

Day Sixteen ~ Vairão (Vilarinho) to Barcelinhos (Barcelos), 28.8 Km (17.9 Mi) via the Central Route

Day Seventeen ~ Barcelinhos (Barcelos) to Ponte de Lima, 33.9 Km (21.1 Miles) via the Central Route

Day Eighteen ~ Ponte de Lima to Rubiães, 17.7 Km (11 Miles)

Day Nineteen ~ Rubiães to Tui, 19 Km (11.8 Miles)

Day Twenty ~ Tui to O Porriño, 17.1 Km (10.63 Miles)

Day Twenty-One ~
O Porriño to Redondela, 15.3 Km (9.51 Miles)

Day Twenty-Two (B) ~ Redondela to Pontevedra, 20 Km (12.43 Miles)

Day Twenty-Three ~ Pontevedra to Valga, 30.5 Km (19 Miles)

Day Twenty-Four ~ Valga to Milladoiro, 26.3 Km (16.34 Miles)

Day Twenty-Five ~ Milladoiro to Santiago, 7.8 Km (4.85 Miles)

Your Opinion Matters! Comments

Have you had a similar experience, have some advice to give, or have something else you'd like to share? We would love to hear from you! Please leave us a comment in the box below.

Please Consider Showing Your Support

Many readers contact me, Elle, to thank me for all the time and care that I have spent creating this informative website. If you have been truly blessed by my efforts, have not purchased an eBook, yet wish to contribute, I am exeedingly grateful. Thank-you!

Search This Website:

Facebook X Pinterest Tumblr Reddit WhatsApp Messenger

The Pilgrimage Traveler Digital Guides

Our Guides Help You:

~ Know what to expect each day!

~ Locate historic sites along the Way!

~ Know where you are in your journey!

~ Discover a quote from the sages, for your daily reflection on the journey!

Click on a Photo Below to Get Your Copy.

A most popular alternative on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués!

The Portuguese Routes are rapidly gaining in popularity, especially the section from Lisbon! Plan to walk this one soon, before it is no longer a quiet experience!

Our Most Popular Guide!

The Most Historic of the Portuguese Caminos ~ not to be missed!

The Spiritual Adventure of a Lifetime, Following in the Footsteps of St. Teresa of Ávila!

The Amazing Mountain Route Alternative, the Camino Sanabrés, from Granja de Moreruela on the Vía de la Plata!

Waymark Carving Along the Camino Sanabrés

The Most Incredible Mountain Scenery on this Camino from Leon to Oviedo!

Camino de San Salvador Digital EBook Cover

The Shortest of the Caminos, but Not Easy!

The Very First, Original Camino from Oviedo to Santiago

Entirely Updated and New Version for 2025

The Pilgrimage to the End of the World ~ A Must Do!

All Banners, Amazon, Roamless and Booking.com links on this website are affiliate links. As an associate of these companies, the Pilgrimage Traveler website will earn from qualifying purchases when you click on these links. We have used and love all of our product recommendations and believe you will too! We sincerely thank-you!

Booking.com

🙋‍♀️ Why Trust Us at the Pilgrimage Traveler?

We’re not a travel agency ~ we’re fellow pilgrims! (See About Us)

We've trekked Pilgrimage Routes Across Europe since 2014!

💬 We’ve:

Gotten lost so you don’t have to. 😉
Followed waymarks in the glowing sunlight, the pouring rain and by moonlight. ☀️🌧️🌙
Slept in albergues, hostels & casa rurals. Ate and drank in cafés along the way. 🛌 😴
Created comprehensive and downloadable GPS maps and eBook Guides, full of must-have information based on real pilgrimage travels. 🧭 🗺️
Shared our complete journeys, step by step to help YOU plan your ultimate pilgrimage and walk with your own Heart and Soul. 💙✨

Ultreia and Safe Pilgrimage Travels, Caminante! 💫 💚 🤍

Follow Me on Pinterest:

PilgrimageTraveler

Find the Pilgrimage Traveler on Facebook:

Like / Share this page on Facebook:

Follow Me on Instagram:

***All Banners, Amazon, Roamless and Booking.com links on this website are affiliate links. As an Amazon associate and a Booking.com associate, the Pilgrimage Traveler website will earn from qualifying purchases when you click on these links, at no cost to you. We sincerely thank-you as this is a pilgrim-supported website***

PS: Our eBook Guide books are of our own creation and we appreciate your purchase of those too!!

Shroud Yourself in Mystery, along the Via de Francesco!

Walk in the Footsteps of St. Francis, and Connect Deeply to the Saint and to Nature in the Marvelous Italian Countryside!

Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!

Essential Packing List

Carbon Trekking Poles

Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from! (See more of our gear recommendations! )

Gregory BackPack ~ My Favorite Brand