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Day Twelve on the Camino Primitivo ~ Arzúa to Lavacolla, 28.4 Kilometers (17.65 Miles)
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On day twelve of our Camino Primitivo, we were able to arrive in Lavacolla, only 10.3 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela! It was our last full, hard day and my heart was so full of gratitude that I thought it would burst.
"I would maintain that thanks are the highest form of thought; and that gratitude is happiness doubled by wonder." ~ G.K. Chesterton
Day Twelve, Camino Primitivo Maps and Stats
Below is our interactive Google map that covers our day twelve on the Camino Primitivo. The route, once again follows the N-547 very closely, to the north and/or to the south, until it reaches the Municipality of Santiago de Compostela, or the Municipio Santiago.
The route is very straightforward, well-signed, well-traveled and well-serviced, as you would expect. The services I placed on the map for your reference are plentiful indeed as you can see!
Please note the old route leaving Arzúa, that I have kept on the map below, in orange, now provided as an "alternative route." As of less than one year ago, this was the standard, official way out of town.
Here is the elevation profile for the day. As you can see, the day consists of gentle ups and downs for the first 16 kilometers of the day. Then there is a downhill of about 150 meters (500 feet) into O Pedrouzo. After O Amenal, at about 22 kilometers into the day, there is a 100 meter climb (320 feet) that does not feel that strenuous, especially after the rest of the Primitivo!
While this stage was long, we felt energetic and fit, and wanted to get closer to Santiago, so that the noon pilgrim's mass was obtainable on the last day.
The Journey on Day Twelve of the Camino Primitivo
Below is where our Camino began, leaving the main street in the morning at 8:00 a.m from the Plaza del Peregrino and onto the Rúa Cima do Lugar to the left by the yellow house in the photo below. Farther on we met Glyvia at the church, the Capela da Madalena, in the center of town and agreed to walk with her for the day.
It was a cool September day, but no rain. The forecast was for 50-60 degrees all day. Perfect camino walking weather. So far, in 12 days, we had no rain! I voice-journaled the significance of this, and how enormously grateful I was for this wonderful blessing!
My left foot still hurt, as it had for several days, so I took an Ibuprofen after eating breakfast, to start off. I was worried about a stress fracture in my foot, but with only 37 kilometers to go to get to Santiago de Compostela, in no way was I stopping now. I had plenty of time to rest after the Camino!
My knees were holding up really well. For me, the combination of hiking poles, which take 30% of your weight off your knees, and my knee supports worked really, really well.
With continued determination, only hours from Santiago de Compostela, I walked on! I set my intention to walk lightly and use my poles as much as I could. Our goal for day twelve was to reach Lavacolla, only about 28 km away.
After passing the Capella da Madalena and the Igrexa de Santiago de Arzúa the Camino takes a right turn onto the AC-905 and returns to the main route through town, the N-527. This is a route change in the past year, where before it continued straight for another 100 meters before joining a nice dirt lane and out of town, past the Pilgrim’s fountain, shown below.
For reasons that are a head-scratcher to me (and most likely political), the new route takes you back through the main part of town, by turning left onto the N-527 for another 350 meters, before taking a left turn between the brand-new Bocanoite Stellae apartments, and the building to the south. Then it bends to the right behind the apartments, and picks up an off-road path to the left, through the field and south to rejoin the old route on the nice lane shown, farther below.
This new route makes no sense to me, in light of two facts. The additional steps through town adds an extra 150 meters to the route, and secondly, it misses the delightful, historic Pilgrim's fountain. I would just continue on straight after the churches, as I show on the orange “alternative route” on my maps.
My community spirit was ignited by Glyvia who was obviously so grateful for having us with her today on her Camino. She was so animated as she walked and talked, her big mop of curly red hair flying around, her hands gesturing in the air, and the big smiles on her face!
In many photos today, it looks like I am following to the rear of Glyvia and Rich, when in actuality, I had merely stopped to snap the photo.
Long, Shaded Lane that Parallels the N-547 on Day Twelve, Camino PrimitivoLater that morning on the road to Pregontoño, about 2.4 kilometers from the center of Arzúa, we captured this sight: rays of light peeking out through the clouds. It was a gorgeous and life-affirming sight. We paused for several minutes to breathe it in!
It is 3.55 kilometers toward the next town of A Calzada and shortly before it we encountered this bridge:
Bridge, Crossing the A-54 before Calzada
Walking Across the BridgeJust before this bridge that crosses the highway is the Albergue Taberna Vella, “Heidi’s Place,” right along the Camino.
Not quite ten minutes after crossing the bridge, we came to the town of A Calzada and the café bar, Casa Calzada. This is a great pilgrimage stop, right along the Camino in A Calzada, after about 6.3 kilometers. Since we had only been on the road an hour, we didn't stop. It was just after 9:00 a.m.
Rich Walks by Casa Calzada on the Camino FrancésOn day twelve on the Camino Primitivo, once again, we continued onward, walking on tree-lined paths. Here is a photo of some of the many pilgrims now traveling along with us.
It is mostly a wooded lane from A Calzada to the neighboring towns of A Calle de Ferreiros and Outeiro, another 1.8 kilometers down the road.
For me, I was truly enjoying this final, full day on the Camino Primitivo. I was excited to be almost there, excited to be with friends, and just excited all around. We had enjoyed a beautiful sunrise. Plus the paths here were very protected, shaded and on very little pavement. I was so very grateful for this!
I walked more slowly with Glyvia who was keeping a slower pace. We graciously stayed with her throughout the day. We were taking our time on these final steps. We were very close. The waymarks with the kilometer countdown were coming every 1/2 kilometer now.
We knew that O Pedrouzo, the end of the traditional stage, was a possible pinch point for beds, so we obtained a reservation for Lavacolla, about 8.5 km farther on. Our goal was to make it relatively close to Santiago de Compostela and Lavacolla fit the bill. The plan was to saunter into SDC in the morning, in plenty of time for the noon pilgrim's mass.
There really was no reason to hurry on this day twelve of our Camino Primitivo, despite seeing many, many pilgrims. Many of them were hobbling as we passed by! One young woman looked terrible and could barely walk. With only 30 km to go, we knew she would make it, somehow.
Walking Into OuteiroThere are four possibilities for accommodation in the Outeiro/A Calle de Ferreiros area about 8.0 kilometers from Arzúa. There is the Albergue A Ponte de Ferreiros, 200 meters off-Camino to the south, the Pensión Mirador de Routis, 250 meters to the south and A Casa do Hórreo, right along the Camino. Or if you have a group of 4-12, the Casa A Calle may be appropriate for you.
Next we passed an irrigation area called the Riego de Igrexario. It is a photogenic place.
From Outeiro to Salceda it is 3.3 kilometers or so, after about 11.3 kilometers total. The Way is very rural on back country paved roads that are wonderfully tree-lined for most of the way.
Elle and Glyvia near BoavistaIf you wanted to end your day in Salceda, there are five possibilities for accommodation in Salceda, the Pensión Albergue Turístico Salceda, 400 meters off-Camino to the south, and right along the Camino, the Pensión Albergue Alborada, the Café-Bar Pensión Tasaga, the Albergue La Corona1 and the Casa Tia Teresa Bar-Pensión.
Path by N-547 in Salceda
Along the N-547 on Day Twelve of the Camino Primitivo
A Look Back at the Many PeregrinosOn the 2.25 kilometers after Salceda, the Camino skirts along the N-547 where it walks on a strong path to the side of the road, below, and sometimes on a tree-lined path on the way to the next town of A Brea.
After a brief diversion from the N-547 in A Brea, shown above, the Way rejoins the highway.
There are more accommodations in A Brea if you choose to end your day here, the Pensión O' Mesón Café-Bar, (+34 981 511 040) and the Pensión Mar de Frisia. A short way past A Brea is the Hotel O Pozo as well.
The Camino always walks to the side of the highway on a nice path. Here is a sign warning motorists that the French Way crosses the road to the other side, near Cerceda, the next small town.
Walking Into Cerceda, Just Before Santa IreneBetween Cerceda and Santa Irene, at a crossroads, about 15.4 kilometers into our day, we finally stopped at the Café Bar Andaina for lunch and a café con leche, always! We chose this place because it has an outdoor seating area, but I failed to snap a photo of it. There is also the Albergue de Peregrinos, “Andaina” here as well as several more bars on this corner.
On day twelve of our Camino Primitivo, the Way turns to the right after the intersection to walk to St Irene, but sticks close to road on a side path.
There are many facilities in Santa Irene, if you want to avoid staying in the more common stop of O Pedrouzo. There is a municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Santa Irene and the Alojamiento Santa Irene.
It is worth it to take the diversion off-Camino a few meters in Santa Irene to see the ruined chapel there, the Ermita de Santa Irene, if you have time.
There are many crossings back and forth on the N-547 in this area, so please exercise caution whenever you cross! There are not always well-marked crosswalks, and sometimes it is very difficult to see oncoming traffic, and vice versa!
After passing through Santa Irene, you finally leave the N-547 behind!
Around the Bend
Proprietors Awaiting In A RúaThe next town you enter is A Rúa, 1.65 kilometers later, which has six possible accommodations, the 46-bed private Albergue Espiritu Xacobeo, the Pensión Casa da Gallega, the Hotel Rural O Acivro, the Hotel O Pino, 200 meters off-Camino to the north, and the giant Camping Peregrino O Castiñeiro with 112-beds in tents.
After A Rúa, in only 400 meters more you cross over the N-547 in the next town of O Burgo, after 18.6 kilometers total. This is where you must leave the Camino and head south on the highway if you plan to stay in O Burgo or O Pedrouzo. There are two accommodations in O Burgo, only 300 meters down the road. O Pedrouzo is only 500 meters from the turn-off after a respectable 19 kilometers on the road from Arzúa.
The Camino itself avoids the town of O Pedrouzo almost altogether and walks to the north of it on quieter streets.
Upon reaching the turn-off area, we parted ways with Glyvia. She had a reservation in O Pedrouzo and didn't want to go any farther. It seemed like mostly all the pilgrims stopped here on their way to Santiago. It felt like we were essentially going onward alone. We said our goodbyes and promised to meet up in Santiago de Compostela, the next day!
It was still almost 10 kilometers to our destination in Lavacolla.
Accommodations in O Burgo and O Pedrouzo
There are an amazing number of accommodations and other services in this area! In O Burgo, the first one you come to is the private Albergue O Burgo and within the same building, the Pensión Compás.
Only 200 meters farther along the N-547 is the giant municipal Albergue Público de Peregrinos de O Pino and across the street the large, private Albergue Mirador de Pedrouzo. Farther in town is the Albergue Porta de Santiago, and the Albergue O Trisquel. The Albergue Otero is to the north of the N-547 and the Albergue Edreira and the Albergue REM (+34 981 51 04 07), and the Albergue Cruceiro de Pedrouzo are farther south. All of these albergues are quite large, most with 50 or more beds.
There are so many pensions in this town if you prefer them over the albergues, that your best option may be to check out our Google map above with all them placed on it. Or you can click here to see what deals booking.com is offering today!
Continuing on the Camino
After O Pedrouzo, the French Way becomes very rural again as we set off on this calm and beautiful afternoon. Rich set up this photo...
Elle and Rural Gardens...so he could get this one! Ah yes, the classic gardening pose!
Classic Gardening PoseThis lovely, enchanted forest, below, is between O Burgo and the next town of O Amenal, 3.7 kilometers farther down the road from the O Pedrouzo turn-off and 22.3 kilometers total.
There are two accommodations in O Amenal, the Kilómetro 15 Pensión Bar and the Hotel Restaurant Amenal if you wish to call it a day.
On day twelve, the Camino Primitivo crosses under a bridge on the N-547 in O Amenal and to the south side of the highway as it heads westward toward the airport, then diverts northward to Amarelle as it skirts around the airport.
Lavacolla is on the other side of the Santiago airport, to the west. We were a little worried about staying in a place next to planes flying in and out, but not so much, as it was only for one night.
We certainly were relishing the mostly flat way and we were still in the forest, yay! By this time I was longing to see the airport, for then I knew we would be close.
Great Forest Walking ContinuesEven though we were walking close to the airport on the eastern side, you could barely notice it.
The Camino meets the N-547 in Amarelle after 2.5 kilometers from O Amenal, on the northeast side of the airport. Here the N-547 becomes the A-54 at a large traffic circle, where you walk to the south side of this circle on a gravel path, and come upon this sculpture, below, that marks your entrance into the municipality of Santiago de Compostela! The grin is large, on Rich's face! This landmark is at 24.9 kilometers into the day.
You continue to skirt around the airport, first along the A-54 to the north of it, but on a nice path to the side of the highway. When the Way leaves the A-54, in about 650 meters, it turns left onto another path, to stay off the main road. Below is a photo of this pleasant diversion.
Diversion from the A-54, North of SDC AirportThis path continues to skirt the airport, in a southerly direction, but now on its western side. In a short while, the Camino turns right, to the west in the direction of San Paio about 600 meters later.
As we walked into San Paio, we were greeted by the Casa Porta de Santiago, a nice little bar. It was there where we stopped for a break. Instead of visiting the bar, we climbed into the field next to it, to eat from our pack. Here is where we ran into Mattias, again, a member of our Primitivo family, who joined us in our break.
Prior to heading back to the road, Rich bought a bocadillo to go, since we were approaching the "witching hour" when the bars closed down for siesta! Rich walked on with Mattias, chatting for a way.
I lingered at the charming little church in San Paio, photographing it and breathing in my deeply held gratitude for the Camino, my personal journey and my health, strength, and stamina! I was so grateful to be here, and I thanked God for the many, many wonders of the journey!
Close Up of the San Paio ChurchThere is an accommodation in Sao Paio right next to the church, the Last 12K Premium Guest House, within striking distance of Santiago.
On day twelve, the Camino Primitivo then turns southwest on paths and off roads to walk into Lavacolla about 1.3 kilometers later. As in all afternoons on my Camino de Santiago, the final few kilometers seemed to take forever! At last the sign announcing Lavacolla appeared!
Lavacolla at Last!Even after seeing the Lavacolla sign, the Camino winds its way through town another 725 meters, until the church in Lavacolla comes into view, below.
There are stairs from the church that lead downward to a nice, central plaza, some bars and the river, the Río Sionlla. It is by this river where historically, pilgrims stopped to bathe before entering Santiago de Compostela, in order to be clean.
This fact, rather refutes the notion that the botafumeiro in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela was originally swung to cover the stench of unbathed pilgrims!
According to Glyvia, there is not much to see of the river in Lavacolla, and it is not so nice a place. From what we could see, the plaza and park were pleasant enough, but the river was barely discernible for the modern bridge and highway crossing it. There was no access to the river for bathing, that we could tell! So, Glyvia was right.
Modern pilgrims do stop here to reflect on their Camino, especially at the chapel in town. There are actually quite a few places to stay in Lavacolla.
We finally found our hostal where we had made the reservation around three p.m. After showering and resting in the room, we stopped by the Bar Botana, on the plaza by the river. It was a charming and friendly little place. The food was very reasonable and we shared a shot of Scotch whiskey, 100 Pipers, to toast to our arrival, 10 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela.
Accommodations in Lavacolla
Lavacolla is no longer the sleepy little village that it used to be. There are now many accommodations to meet the peregrinos demands. There are two albergues here, both private, the Albergue Lavacolla and the Albergue A Fábrica. Other accommodations include the Pension Xacobeo Lavacolla, the Casa O Fogar de Maru, the Apartamento A Fábrica, the Hostal and Restaurante San Paio (+34 981 88 82 05), the Hostal A Concha, the Pensión Dorotea, the Hotel Ruta Jacobea and the Hotel Garcas.
Reflections from Day Twelve on the Camino Primitivo
It was appropriate that here we were, at the end of our day twelve on the Camino Primitivo, in the town of Lavacolla, a place for reflection. As we spent our evening, alone together, the two of us talked extensively on what our journey meant and how it had impacted us.
We were both so very grateful that we had the ability, the time and the resources to even make such a journey a possibility. For us, gratitude was indeed wrapped up in happiness and wonder! Our entire journey was filled with happiness and wonder, despite the many hardships, the body pains and the culture unfamiliarities.
My favorite Camino days were day five on the Hospitales Route and day eight, with the ancient standing stones. While each and every day brought special sights, special feelings and lessons, these two days stood out to me.
Both Rich and I were amazed as we reflected on how much this Camino brought so many of us together in a way that could never have happened otherwise. While we both walked together the whole way, or mostly with other pilgrims, we were able to experience the inner journey as well.
No great lightning bolts of insight occurred, nor any great revelations. It was to take it all as it comes, stay present to the experience and never stop moving forward.
Never did I ever feel like I would not make it. Many times I wanted to quit, but I did not. Quitting was not in the plan. I was grateful to be close to the end, however, on this day twelve of our Camino Primitivo!
Salutation
May your own day twelve on your Camino Primitivo be filled with the happiness and wonder that brings great gratitude to your own heart! May you be filled with gratitude that you made it, that Santiago is just a glimpse away now! Ultreia!
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