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Day Twelve on the
Way of St. Francis ~ Spello to Trevi, 18.5 Kilometers (11.5 Miles)
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The stage from Spello to Trevi on the Way of St. Francis is relatively easy compared to most, but its lack of challenging and interesting terrain makes it less appealing.
Ah the dilemma between difficulty vs. reward (or beauty) solidifies what I often say about this particular pilgrimage: "Kill yourself or go boring." In other words, when the Way is easy, it is also boring. The pilgrimage is most appealing when the way is difficult! Definitely a life metaphor, isn't it?
However, the interest on day twelve culminates as you make the climb at the end of the day into the fabulous medieval town of Trevi, a rewarding destination indeed!
"True progress quietly and persistently moves along without notice." ~ St. Francis of Assisi
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Maps and Stats, The Way of St. Francis, Spello to Trevi
Relax and enjoy this "easy" day of only 18.5 kilometers and moderate elevation gain. Below is our fully interactive map for the day, with all the amenities placed on it, as usual. For a direct link to this Spello to Trevi map, click here.
Most of this day is on pavement which may make the walking easier, but clearly, not as remarkable.
Foligno is not a bad stop-over for a coffee break after about six kilometers, nor is Saint'Eraclio after nine. But both towns are on the flat plains and while interesting, are not as dramatic as Trevi, your final destination.
This "easy" day includes an elevation change of about 496 meters (1627 feet), much less than most days. You may notice the first climb up and out of Sant'Eraclio, the longest of the climbs ~ about 100 meters elevation gain over about two kilometers. The rest of the up/down undulations, while noticeable, are much shorter and easier.
Photo-Rich Travelogue, The Way of St. Francis, Spello to Trevi
Day twelve starts at the southern end of Spello, after walking through the impressive Roman gate, the Porta Consolare. We arrived here from our extremely comfortable Residenza Frenguelli, (with perhaps the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in), right at daybreak. The town was totally quiet.
Here is a photo of the Porta Consolare, but from the southwest. The route will actually come out at the archway you can see on the far right of the main arched gate.
If you are walking through the gate, you will not see any waymarks, telling you to turn to the left onto the Via Sant'Anna, until several meters after the turn.
Below is a photo of what the first Way of St. Francis sign looks like (apologies for the shot directly into the sun). You can see that the first town of Ponte Chiona is 3.7 kilometers away and Foligno, 3.8 kilometers. Foligno is a large town, and to the medieval center, it is 6.1 kilometers from the Spello gate.
First Way of St. Francis Sign after Turning Left Onto the Via Sant'AnnaYou know you are heading out in the correct direction, when you follow along the Roman wall on the south side of Spello.
Following the Roman Wall on the South Side of SpelloContinue along the Via Sant'Anna as it leaves the wall, and turns on a strong bend to the right and now due East. A few minutes walk later you arrive at the first intersection.
Continue straight through the intersection where the street is now called the Via Giacomo Brodolini.
Walk initially through a cluster of homes and then you will be on an open, rural road lined with shade trees, olive trees, estates and farmland, pictured next. You will be on flat, paved rural roads for the next three kilometers, all the way into the outskirts of Foligno.
Along the Rural Via Giacomo BrodoliniAfter about one kilometer from the Porta Solare, pass the lovely little chapel called the Santissima Trinità. For those of you familiar with my pilgrimages, I always like to breathe a prayer of gratitude when I arrive at a wayside chapel. This chapel, below, was especially lovely, glowing in the morning light with angels cresting the doorway. It made me feel especially grateful for my health and for the journey.
After the chapel the road becomes the Via Spineto and you continue walking on the expansive country road.
After not quite a full kilometer from the chapel, the Via Spineto makes another strong bend to the right and you are now walking along the Via Rapecchiano.
The open country road becomes more inhabited with buildings the closer you get to Foligno and by 3.2 kilometers total, from the Porta Consolare, you arrive at this prominent crossroads, below, with the Via San Cristoforo in Ponte Chiona.
If you look to the left at the cross street, you will see an entrance sign to Foligno. But there is another three kilometers to walk until the center of town.
Walk Straight Through at Crossroads in Ponte ChionaWalk straight through the crossroads and onto a quaint and narrow side street, again called the Via Spineto, with little traffic.
A few minutes later you will see the elevated State Road (Strada Statale) 75 ahead. Walk under the road, through a tunnel, where the sign shown below now drops the mileage to Ponte Chiona and Foligno, and declares that Trevi is 15.2 kilometers away.
Walk Under the SS75, Ponte ChionaAfter the tunnel, the Way immediately turns to the left and parallel to the SS75 and continues along the Via Spineto.
After only a few minutes walk, the Via Spineto veers to the right and away from the busy state road. A few minutes later the Way crosses over these railroad tracks, below.
Cross Railroad Tracks Along the Via SpinetoA few steps after the railroad tracks, you will arrive at a T-intersection with the Viale Firenze, after about 3.9 kilometers from the start.
Join the Viale Firenze by turning left. The Way remains on this long straight road for the next 1.7 kilometers. You are now in the city proper of Foligno.
The Viale Firenze is a very busy road, with no sidewalk initially, but it does have a shoulder to walk upon. Keep alert, however, and face the traffic, as there will be many bicycles and cars rushing past you along this roadway!
As you can see in the next photo, there is eventually a nice bike and pedestrian way to keep you safe. The oak-lined, paved way is nice enough as you walk through the city.
Along the Viale Firenze into FolignoAbout halfway along the Viale Firenze, walk through a very busy roundabout, which we found rushing with commuter traffic. Keeping to the crosswalks on the left (east) side of the roundabout is your best option.
At the end of 1.7 kilometers along the Viale Firenze, come to a bridge over the river, pictured below, the Fiume Topino. You are now entering the heart of the old city of Foligno.
Cross the Fiume Topino into the Center of FolignoImmediately on the other side of the river, you will notice the church and tower of San Giacomo. This church, originally built in the early 15th century, with a Baroque altar is worth a quick look. I was pleased to see it open.
Chiesa di San Giacomo, Way of St. Francis from Spello to TreviWe were also pleased to see an open bar just before the church. After our visit to the church, we had a nice coffee break. It was early, and the city center was just waking up. We had amazingly delicious creme-filled pastries and cappuccinos!
Just behind the bar and the church, is one possible accommodation, if you decided to end the prior stage here. It is the Albergo le Mura. You can do a search on booking.com for Foligno to see the current deals. There are at least 6-7 relatively economical places clustered near the central plaza. Check the interactive map above for their names and locations.
There is only one pilgrim's accommodation in Foligno, with dormitory beds, the Ostello di Foligno - Palazzo Pierantoni, (+39 0742 353776). It is just east of the central plaza.
Back on the Way, almost immediately across from the San Giacomo church, the Way turns right onto a side street, called the Via Venti Settembre, with a yellow/blue waymark on a traffic pole that says, "Zona Traffico Limitado," or limited traffic zone. It was a bit difficult to spot this turn and waymark.
After a few blocks along the Via Venti Settembre, this street will take you to the Piazza della Repubblica, in the very center of town. The medieval center of Foligno is actually very small, for such a large city.
Arrive at the town hall building, the Comune di Foligno, below, after a total of 6.1 kilometers from the southern gate in Spello.
If you are staying in Foligno, one of its attractions in the Piazza della Repubblica is the Palazzo Trinci, a museum in a palace, containing frescoes about the stories of the founding of Rome, a municipal art gallery, an archeological museum and a Multimedia Museum of Tournaments, Jousts and Games. Sounds interesting.
At the far end of the plaza, when you round the corner to the left, is the 12th century Romanesque cathedral of Foligno, the Duomo di San Feliciano. This church was also glowing in the morning light when we arrived. It has been restored and modified many times over the centuries, and the mosaic on the top is a 1904 creation. It depicts Christ enthroned between San Feliciano and Santa Messalina, the city's protectors, together with Pope Leo XIII, who commissioned the work.
"The canopy above the high altar is a faithful reproduction of Bernini's structure in St Peter's Basilica, Rome," according to the link above. Inside the church there is also a diocese chapter museum and a recently-restored Crypt of San Feliciano (7th to 9th centuries), which we did not visit.
After leaving the Piazza della Repubblica, the Via di Francesco takes a southerly course along the Corso Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, below. This is a pedestrian shopping street through the south end of town which lasts for about one-third kilometer.
Pedestrian Shopping Street, FolignoWhen the pedestrian street ends at a busy intersection, you can see the modern, 19th century gate, the Porta Romana ahead, photo below.
To get through this confusing intersection that has no signage that we could find, it is most expeditious to take a hard right instead of crossing the crosswalk in front of you, walking a few meters parallel to a subterranean parking garage entrance. After the entrance ramp cross over to the left at the first crosswalk. (You may see some very difficult to spot yellow and blue stickers along this route).
After the crossing, turn left again and pick up a path behind a wall, as you double back to the Porta Romana. You will be walking inside the fencing that you see in the photo below.
The Porta Romana was constructed in 1871, on the site of an older defensive bastion from the late 13th century which was demolished the year before.
After walking by the gate, at the Y-intersection, cross over to the left at the next crosswalk, to stay left and onto the larger, busier Viale Roma. You need to cross all the way over to the left side (east side) of the Viale Roma where the yellow and blue stickers/painted markings will guide you onward. This crossover to the left side is important, for a most expeditious route going forward.
You will essentially remain on this long stretch of unpleasant highway all the way to the next town of Sant'Eraclio, a distance of about 2.5 kilometers.
After the Porta Romana Gate, when you are safely on the left side of the Viale Roma, you will be passing by the long, high wall of a military training compound, below. At least it was a nicely shaded pathway to take!
Pass Military Compound, Along the Viale RomaAfter not quite one kilometer walking on the Viale Roma, you will come to two large grocery stores on the right, a Lidl and a Gala Supermarket. It is a good place to restock your pack, or perhaps pick up food for your dinner. (There is a small alimentari in Trevi’s central square if that is your destination, where we were able to get sufficient supplies for our needs, however there is no large supermarket near the medieval center.)
Just after the supermarkets, arrive at a very large and busy roundabout. If you visit the supermarkets, don't forget that it is best to cross back over to the left side before the roundabout, as it will be difficult later to cross over barricades blocking your passage. The Via di Francesco stickers will guide you through the roundabout, crossing over the intersections on the left side.
After making it through the first large roundabout, continue on the pedestrian path that parallels the Viale Roma for another one-half kilometer to the next large roundabout, below. As before, stay to the left, and follow the waymarks through the crosswalks.
Approaching the Second Large Roundabout Along the Viale RomaIt is only a few meters past this second roundabout that you will come to a Y-intersection, below. Stay to the left, to remain on the Viale Roma.
Stay to the Left at Y-IntersectionYou are now approaching the next town of Sant'Eraclio. It is impossible to determine when Foligno ends and Sant'Eraclio begins. We never saw a sign signifying the entry into Sant'Eraclio.
The next part of the walk is about one-half kilometer along the continuing Viale Roma, through a residential neighborhood. It is now a lovely tree-lined and shaded street that eventually changes its name to the Via 1º Maggio.
When the street narrows and no longer has trees, you are entering the medieval center of town, below, and you will see the castle watchtower of Sant'Eraclio, ahead. There is not much of a safe shoulder to walk upon, so exercise caution through here.
Castillo di Sant'Eraclio AheadArrive at the northern gate to the 14th century Castillo di Sant'Eraclio, first photo below. According to the link here, this castle "takes its name from a Roman soldier called Eraclius who was martyred here in 251 AD after converting to Christianity." There has been a village at this location since the 7th century, even though the fortifications came much later. For more of the town's history, click the link above.
It is only a few steps later that you arrive into the center of town, with the watchtower, next photo below. Sant'Eraclio's medieval center is a very small area and you are through town in a few minutes.
Just beyond the watchtower in the central plaza, you will see information boards describing the town and its history.
There are several accommodations nearby in Sant'Eraclio, the Affittacamere Il Piccolo Borgo Foligno just steps outside the city walls to the north, Il Giardino del Gallo, a few meters off-route on the southwest side and perhaps the most economical but the farthest off-route, the Casa Religiosa di Ospitalità Santa Maria di Betlem (+39 333 493 3261) on the northeast side.
Leave the Sant'Eraclio castle through the southern gate a few steps after the town center.
Leaving Sant'Eraclio Through the Southern GateJust outside the gate, you will see a crosswalk, crossing over the street in front of you, with clear Way of St. Francis signs on the other side, leading you to turn left.
However, the 16th century church, the Chiesa Madre di San Marco, is on your right, if you wish to pay a visit. It was closed when we arrived. Immediately across the street from the church is a water fountain.
At this intersection, just outside the gate, you have completed half of your day's pilgrimage, at 9.2 kilometers total.
Follow the red/white sign and turn to the left and in the eastward direction. After passing the divided highway open area, you are now walking on the Via Fontevecchia.
Continue walking a few meters, going through a tunnel under the state road, SS3. After the overpass, the Way takes the first right hand turn a few steps later and onto the Via Londra.
The Via Londra is a quiet, paved street, see below. You may have noticed that you have started the first strong climb of the day.
Along the Via Londra Through the CountrysideAfter a few hundred meters, arrive at this large intersection where the sign says you are 3.9 kilometers from the next town of San Nicolò. Walk straight onwards to continue along the Via Londra.
Straight Onward at IntersectionOver the next 1.2 kilometers, the Via Londra meanders left and right through the countryside. Follow the signs to stay on it.
Pass a prominent equestrian center about halfway, and after about 10.5 kilometers total for the day.
Pass Equestrian CenterAfter the equestrian center, the road turns to gravel and climbs more steeply through lovely olive groves.
Gravel Road Through Olive GrovesWhile the climb through this section feels a bit steep, it is short and over before you know it. You are at the top of the climb when you arrive at this landmark shrine after 11.1 kilometers on the Way of St. Francis from Spello to Trevi. Turn to the right at the shrine and onto another gravel lane.
Of course, after the ascent, there is a descent through the olive groves on the other side!
Descend Through the Olive GrovesAfter about 600 more meters, you will arrive at the bottom of this first hill at a T-intersection. You can see industrial buildings ahead, but the Way is to the left and onto the paved Via Pozzo Secco. Mercifully, it is lined with shade trees, below.
Along this street you can find the Agriturismo Ulivi e Sentieri, a few steps east of the Way, if you are interested in a farm-stay.
Tree-Lined Via Pozzo SeccoA bit more than one-half kilometer later, the paved road ends at a crossroads, and the Way crosses straight over and onto another gravel road through olive groves.
Back Into the Olive GrovesFollow this gravel road for another two-thirds kilometer and come to another intersection, where you walk straight through. This is after about 13 kilometers from the beginning.
Only a few meters after this intersection, the gravel road splits off to the right and you will now join a trail system through the trees. This is one of only two non-road sections of day twelve on the Way of St. Francis from Spello to Trevi!
Join Trail SystemAnd alas, the trail system only lasts for about one-third kilometer, when it comes to an intersection with the paved Via San Nicolò, below. The Way turns to the left, to walk into the town of the same name, San Nicolò. You have logged 13.6 kilometers thus far. The sign says that Trevi is only 4.8 kilometers away. A little bit more than an hour's walk left to go.
Turn Left onto the Via San NicolòEnter San Nicolò along this road. As you can tell by the narrow road, the town is only a string of buildings along the Via San Nicolò for about the next one-half kilometer. You will notice that you are climbing up and into town.
Climb Up Into the town of San NicolòAs you leave the last buildings of San Nicolò about 14 kilometers into the day, and as you begin a small descent on other side of town, keep your eyes on the lookout for the first sighting of Trevi ahead on a small hill. Trevi is about 4.5 kilometers away from here.
First Sighting of Trevi AheadAfter not even a half-kilometer's descent along the Via San Nicolò, at the bottom of the hill, come to a T-intersection with the SP425.
Turn left onto the SP425 and within a few meters arrive at the Roxy Bar and Supermecato Coal in the town of Matigge. It is another stopping place if you need.
Pass Roxy Bar and Supermercato CoalAfter passing the service area, take an immediate left turn, to climb up along the Strada San Clemente. About one-quarter kilometer later, turn to the right as directed, at this distinctive wall.
Right Turn at High WallMeander to the left a few more meters and make yet another right turn.
Another Right Turn by a WallWalk in a southerly direction for the next several hundred meters and join the quiet Strada San Donato. A church with the same name is your next destination.
Along the Quiet Strada San DonatoAfter a few more minutes walk, pass the Chiesa di San Donato, (not pictured) on the hill above you to the left. You can barely see it through the trees and you will have to walk a ways around at the next left turn to actually see it.
A few minutes later, come to the crossroads with the SP425 and cross over it once again to continue straight onward. You will be joining a nice tractor lane for the next 400 meters or so.
Tractor Lane Towards Chiesa di Sant'AndreaThe Way comes to a crossroads, with a paved road and turns to the left. After walking only a few meters more after the turn, you will arrive at another crossroads, and the Chiesa di Sant'Andrea, your next destination, is easily seen ahead on the left.
Unfortunately, this quaint little country chapel was closed when we arrived, but it didn't stop me from taking a moment and breathing in the wonderful feeling of gratitude.
The paved road you are following is the Via Collecchio and it will take you to the next town of Santa Maria In Valle.
A few minutes walk after the Sant'Andrea chapel, come to a T-intersection and turn to the left onto the Località Collecchio. You will climb steeply on this street through town.
Climbing Steeply Through Santa Maria In VallePass the historic washing well and fountain, below, the Fontana di Collecchio after about 16.2 kilometers total for the day. Just beyond the fountain, which looks modernized and is still in use, is a small shrine.
Fontana di Collecchio, Santa Maria In ValleAfter the fountain, note another accommodation on your right, the Agriturismo Residenza Paradiso.
Continue the walk through town and when you are finally at the top of the long hill, this wall and the town church, the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Valle will appear, below. Turn right here before the wall.
Right Turn at the Chiesa di Santa Maria in ValleIt is only a few meters before you arrive at another small shrine on the south side of the church. Here the way, straight onward now turns to a dirt road.
Along this road, we couldn't help but admire the stunning, yellow Autumn Crocus! Something to gaze upon and bring you into the present moment!
Autumn Crocus along the Way of St. Francis from Spello to TreviAnd equally stunning are the now open views of Trevi ahead. This photo is a zoomed in one. The destination is getting closer, but still several kilometers away.
As you walk along, the gravel road becomes more of a tractor lane, see below. Pass by the high walls of an old estate, the Villanova.
Pleasant Walk Along High-Wallled Tractor LaneEventually, this lane gets a bit rough, with some rock-fall at a wash-out, but it is passable without a problem.
Not quite one-half kilometer's walk past the Villanova ruined estate, pass an old fountain, the Fontana di Malborghetto, below. This water is non-potable.
By the Fontana, the Way joins a paved road, only briefly, and then veers to the left into the woods as you can see in the photo below. You are now beginning your final short climb of the day.
Fontana di MalborghettoThis pleasant off-road walk through the trees will take you by another ruined estate as you climb. I found this gate to be quite attractive, with remnants of a fresco over the door. It must have once been an amazing place!
Pass Another Ruined Estate in the WoodsAfter this ruined estate, your final steps through the forest path ends at this set of stairs, below. You will climb up this set of stairs to join the street called the Viale Augusto Ciuffelli. This is your final approach to Trevi that is less than a kilometer away.
Climb Up Set of Stairs to Join the Viale Augusto CiuffelliWhen you join the Viale Augusto Ciuffelli, the high walls of the Monastero di Santa Chiara in San Martino loom above you.
After a few steps along the wall, you will come to the amazing view point of Trevi, called the Belvedere San Martino, below. Pause here to take in the amazing views of Trevi and the valley floor below.
Belvedere San Martino
Pilgrims can find hospitality at the Monastero di Santa Chiara in San Martino, (+39 074 278 216), by donation, not pictured. The entrance to the monastery is just beyond the belvedere.
It is a pleasantly shaded and flat walk of about 3/4 kilometer from the monastery to the center of Trevi.
Home Stretch Along the Viale Augusto CiuffelliYou will arrive into Trevi at this intersection, below, where across the street is the central plaza, the Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. There is nothing very striking about this plaza itself, and I did not photograph it, but it is a wonderfully shaded place to refresh yourself with a celebratory drink and/or a bite to eat!
At the restaurant, the Trattoria “La Tavernetta Del Gusto,” I think I had the most amazing eggplant parmesan in my life! But then, it is one of my favorite Italian dishes anyway!
Piazza Giuseppe GaribaldiThere is a nice water fountain in the south west corner of the piazza, across from the trattoria described above.
When you are standing within the central plaza, it is a bit tricky to find the Way forward. It is by this long, high wall, below. You can see the yellow/blue sticker on the pole, and a Tau symbol painted on the wall by the street sign.
The Onward Way of St. Francis Along the Via delle FontiAccommodations in Trevi
We stayed in one of the best places of our entire Via di Francesco, by the southern gate of Trevi, the Appartamento La Corte di Trevi. The owners were so amazingly friendly and helpful, the apartment was incredibly comfortable and charming. While not the most economical place, we chose it because we wanted a kitchen to cook dinner and the hearty breakfast that we like.
In addition to the monastery before town, the Monastero di Santa Chiara in San Martino, (+39 074 278 216), there is the Monastero Di Santa Chiara - Comunita Chemin Neur, (+39 0742 78613) that also takes pilgrims by donation. This monastery is a healthy, one-half kilometer walk off-route and down the steep hill, on the western side of town.
If you want to stay in the center of town, like we did, the Residenza Sant'Emiliano and Il Panorama di Trevi may be your most economical choices. According to some sources, the Pizzeria La Casareccia Di Angeloni Fabrizio (+39 0742-780994) in the central plaza, has pilgrim rooms in the summer, so it is worth giving them a call.
There are more choices, of course. You can look on booking.com and search for Trevi, to see additional options.
Reflections, The Way of St. Francis, Spello to Trevi
Trevi is a most fabulous small, medieval town, and while the monuments individually may not be all that spectacular, wandering along the narrow medieval streets was amazing. Please see my individual article and photos of this charming place. (coming soon!)
We were very happy that we chose to stay the night here, to spend the afternoon basking in the sun over a long lunch and wandering the side streets in town.
The pilgrimage walk itself was an easy one, which made the entire day absolutely delightful. It was another day to add to our persistent progress.
Salutation
May your own Way of St. Francis from Spello to Trevi show quiet and persistent true progress! Utreia!
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Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from! (See more of our gear recommendations! )
Gregory BackPack ~ My Favorite Brand
Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel!
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