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Day Fourteen on the
Way of St. Francis ~
Poreta to Spoleto, 15 Kilometers (9.3 Miles)
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Our day fourteen on the Way of St Francis, from Poreta to Spoleto was another challenge, with strong climbs, more historic Italian villages to visit and a not-so pleasant finish into Spoleto. However, medieval Spoleto itself was worth the walk through the outskirts to get there!
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible." ~ St Francis of Assisi
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The quote above was so true for me on this stage! The whole day, which we combined with day thirteen was an incredibly rigorous one, with 27 kilometers total (our actual tracks were closer to 30) and an impressive elevation gain/loss of 1221/1247 meters (4006/4091 feet).
Plus the day was quite hot and horribly humid, only adding to the challenge.
However, because I knew that the following day was a day off as a tourist in Spoleto, I managed to soldier on! I could never sustain multiple days with such energy requirements. I'm getting way too old for that kind of self-punishment!
Maps and Stats, The Way of St. Francis, Poreta to Spoleto
Next is our interactive map of our GPS tracks, with added features, as usual. Click here for the direct link to the map.
You can see the two choices you have in routes, leaving Poreta. Please see just below for the full explanation of the routes and their differences. If you choose to take the red route via the castle, you will need to add 650 meters to your day, for a total of 15.7 kilometers.
Below is the elevation profile for the section from Poreta to Spoleto. There is a total elevation gain of 661 meters (2169 feet), most of it in the beginning. And of course, true to the Apennine hiking tradition, it has an almost equal elevation loss of 615 meters (2018 feet)!
There is one, initial big climb of 230 meters (755 feet) over about 3.0 kilometers to the first town of Bazzano Superiore. From Bazzano Superiore, there is a smaller climb of 120 meters (394 feet) over about 1.4 kilometers.
There are more, smaller ups and downs to complete the last 5.5 kilometers, however, for me, the most difficult was the final climb up and into the center of Spoleto! It is only a 60 meter (200 feet) climb over 340 meters, but it is steep and the final meters are on steep pedestrian steps!
Elevation Profile, Way of St. Francis, Poreta to Spoleto, Day FourteenPhoto-Rich Travelogue, The Way of St. Francis, Poreta to Spoleto
The start of day fourteen on the Way of St. Francis from Poreta to Spoleto, is just after the entrance to town, at the first intersection shown below.
The brown map in the photo shows your two choices of routes here. If you turn left you will be climbing up to the Castello di Poreta and the church, the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Misericordia, within its walls.
Both of these sites have been closed for many years, according to the locals, so now, the Way only walks around the outside of the medieval walls. What a pity, because after doing an internet search, there was once a fabulous hotel and restaurant in this castle! Apparently the church was used as a banquet/ballroom and on occasion is open for events.
Bifurcation of Routes in Poreta, Beginning of Day FourteenThe ascending route to the Castello di Poreta is 1.5 kilometers, with an elevation gain of 125 meters (607 feet) and an elevation loss of 104 meters (341 feet).
The castle route essentially climbs the mountain to the east of town on a secondary road up to the Castello di Poreta, walks along the medieval walls, then drops back down on the other side to join the lower, blue route. I have provided GPS tracks from public sources if you wish to walk this route. We did not want the additional effort, so we did not choose the castle route.
The second choice of routes that continues straight onwards through town, is only 850 meters long in total before it meets the castle route. This route loses 23 meters (75 feet) as it walks through town, then gains 45 meters (148 feet) and joins the castle route. You can see the effort is significantly less than the castle route.
You will pass the former church, just after the intersection pictured above. If you need water, there is a fountain in the intersection across from the front of the church along the street that turns to the right.
Continue walking and pass the pilgrim-friendly Bar Alimentari Rosa Orazi, where you can get groceries in addition to sit-down food/beverages. The bar is somewhat hidden and if you need a stop, you will need to look closely on your right, to see it set-back from the street, along a driveway.
As noted on day thirteen, there are several accommodations in Poreta, the first is A Casa di Francesco (+39 349 830 9327), run by Rosa's (the proprietress of the bar) daughter, Cinzia. She caters to pilgrims and gets excellent reviews on Google.
There is also the Villa del Cardinale, the Borgo della Marmotta Farm Resort & Restaurant, and La Palombaia. Some of these are quite expensive, so pilgrims beware!
After passing Rosa's bar, you will see the exit sign for Poreta, below. This is where you will turn left. There is another brown map to show you the direction of the two routes once again, I suppose if you change your mind about your choice. You can see that the route is well-marked.
Leaving Poreta, Follow the Yellow and Blue WaymarksJust after the turn, you will see a Via di Francesco sign, stating that the next town of Bazzano Superiore is 5.0 kilometers away and Spoleto 12.9 (be aware that this mileage to Spoleto is not to the cathedral in the center of town where the stage ends, but to the outer city limits only). You must consider that there is 2.5 kilometers of suburban walking before reaching the center of Spoleto, so this kilometer figure is very deceiving!
While walking along this quiet, paved road, if you look to the left, you will see a better view of the Castello di Poreta ~ of at least the walls and the top of the church. We contented ourselves with that.
Castello di PoretaAfter walking only about 1/4 kilometer on a gentle ascent, look for the turn to the right onto a nicely tree-lined side lane.
It is only a few minutes walk along this lane when you come to this intersection, below, with a path ahead to the right of a gate to an estate.
This lane also continues on a bend to the left ~ this is where the castle route descends to join the lower route.
Both routes now continue along this path, with the first town of Bazzano Superiore 3.4 kilometers away. (The mileage on these last two signs are off - supposedly we already walked 1.5 kilometers since Poreta, but my measurements show only about 850 meters.)
Leave the Lane for this Path AheadThe Way continues along this path for about the next 1.1 kilometer, descending at first, then widening.
The Initial Narrow PathThe path becomes an even wider, two-track lane, when it leaves the forest for the olive groves. You can see in the photo that a mild ascent has begun. This area is the beginning of the long, first climb of the day.
Path Widens to Tractor LaneAfter just shy of two kilometers into day fourteen, come to a T-intersection on the dirt lane, where you will turn to the right onto another dirt lane, and then a few steps later, turn again to the left in front of a fenceline through the field. This left turn is onto a somewhat improved dirt lane.
You are now beginning a steeper and more noticeable climb through the valley, shown below.
I love to try to figure out where the Way goes, looking ahead like the photo depicts. Since I knew we were starting a significant climb, the Way does not go up and into the mountains ahead, but goes through them, behind the lower hill on the right. Yay!
Ascending Valley Walk, Way of St. Francis, Poreta to SpoletoContinue along this lane, through several buildings and farms, in an area now called the Località Santa Maria Reggiana.
After about another kilometer, and 3.12 kilometers total from Poreta, the Way comes to a crossroads with the SP459, shown below. Continue through the intersection, straight ahead. Bazzano Superiore is now only 1.6 kilometers away!
Arrive at Crossroads, in the Località Santa Maria ReggianaAfter this intersection the climb now begins in earnest!
Within a few minutes walk onward, you will pass by a water fountain, pictured below. Unfortunately it was locked! Rich is trying to figure out how to use it in the photo, but we couldn't access any water. But no fear, there is another water fountain less than 1.5 kilometers later!
Locked Water Fountain!Continue the steep climb, onwards along the pavement, until coming to another crossroads after another several hundred meters. Again, stay straight onward as directed.
After this crossroads, the Way ahead changes to a dirt road, shown next. This is a very steep, loose and rocky road! I was very grateful it was not raining!
Steep, Loose, Rocky RoadThere is a turn to the right here, by this water control station, photo below.
Right Turn by Water Control BuildingBy about 3.85 kilometers total, take a hard left onto another loose and rocky road and keep on climbing! Take heart, because after this turn there is only about another 1/2 kilometer of climbing.
It is indeed a pleasant-enough walk through the forest.
Steep Climb Through the ForestAfter approximately 4.25 kilometers, join the pavement and turn right, to walk into Bazzano Superiore, shown below. You are now essentially at the top of the first climb for the day.
Meet Paved Road Towards Bazzano SuperioreA few steps onward enter the town itself and this abandoned church is before you! It is still a welcoming and magnificent sight!
The former church is no longer open to pilgrims, but there is a very nice picnic area, beyond it, where we stopped to have lunch with two pilgrims from the Netherlands.
Former Church of Bazzano SuperioreWithin the picnic area there is a water fountain, where we splashed cold water on ourselves and filled our water pack. It felt so great to have a nice rest and a picnic after the long climb.
When it was time to continue, the Way takes this paved road through town, shown below, which is mercifully flat! The signs now direct you to the next town of Bazzano Inferiore (Lower Bazzano), 2.5 kilometers away. Ahh, "lower" means we are going to descend.
Onward Road through Bazzano SuperioreIt is less than 1/2 kilometer on this road through town, when you are directed to turn to the left onto a quiet paved road through the next rural area.
Continue on this paved road that continues to be a flat walk, for a bit more than another 1/2 kilometer, towards the next area, the Località Santa Maria and the historic, 14th century Rocca Mediavale di Santa Maria, the medieval castle and its walls.
After 5.3 kilometers total, as you enter into town, come to a Y-intersection and stay low and to the right. Keep walking towards the center of the town.
One of the first landmarks as you walk through Località Santa Maria, is the 18th century church, the attractively quaint Chiesa di Santa Maria Annunziata, pictured below. It was closed when we tried to have a look inside. However there is a nice bench that you can see in the photo to rest if you need and a water fountain on the other side of the street.
18th Century Chiesa di Santa Maria AnnunziataAfter passing the backside, the road takes a strong bend to the right and then passes the front of the church, to continue along the southern walls of the city.
The Walk Through Località Santa MariaYou are essentially circumnavigating the castle walls, below, with more ruined walls high and to the right, that are difficult to see from the road.
Castello di Bazzano: Rocca Medievale di Santa MariaAfter circling the fortress walls, the Way turns to the left at this historic fountain, shown next. Take a last whimsical look over your right shoulder at the remaining Castello di Bazzano walls and turn left! A strong descent now begins toward Bazzano Inferiore, the "Lower" Bazzano, over the next 1.7 kilometers!
Turn Left at Historic FountainYou will descend upon a tree-lined path for about one-third kilometer. Arrive at this intersection with a paved road, below, and cross over it to a path on the other side. The Way of St. Francis sign announces that you are less than one kilometer from Bazzano Inferiore.
Cross Over Pavement at IntersectionContinue descending on a wider path that becomes a gravel road.
Path Becomes a Gravel RoadAfter about 6.4 kilometers total, the Way comes to a crossroads with a paved road, where it goes right onto the pavement at the edge of Bazzano Inferiore.
A few minutes later, the road into town takes a large bend to the left and the first buildings now appear, below.
Entering Bazzano InferioreThe town of Bazzano Inferiore is larger than the upper one and it is about a kilometer's walk to go through it.
Walking Through Bazzano InferioreAs you near the center of town, pass a shrine built into the wall on your right, then immediately after, look for a large washing/water fountain on the left, at a corner of a side street leaving the main road to the left. Just after this side street is a nicely shaded area with picnic tables, also on the left. This would be a good place for a break, to eat from your pack, since surprisingly there is no café here in town.
After the picnic area, the long descent from the Località Santa Maria ends at the bus stop in the center of town, when you turn to the left and cross a stone bridge over a wash. Take this street, the Via Semina and cross the bridge. The waymark sign declares the next town of Eggi to be 2.6 kilometers away, and Spoleto, 5.5.
There was a festival that had just ended, after this mid-September weekend and there were flags and decorations all through the center of town.
Almost immediately after the turn, you will encounter this building, below, with the remnants of what was once a wonderful fresco over the doorway.
And if you look ahead and up on the hill from the street level (expand the photo for a closer look), you can see the Castello di Bazzano Inferiore. So many castles, so little time!!
Fresco and Castello di Bazzano InferioreA few minutes walk along the Via Semina, you will see another wonderful area to rest. On the right side, there are park benches along a green belt.
And just after the benches, is the Chiesa di Sant'Andrea. This somewhat simple, two-story stuccoed church was not open on this day.
Chiesa di Sant'Andrea, Bazzano InferioreJust to the east of the church is the B&B Castello Girasole if you wish to end your day here.
After the church, the Way continues along the castle walls, to exit the town. As you walk along, look for the turnoff for La Tana Del Riccio, another choice in accommodation.
A few meters later, the Via Semina becomes a gravel lane and enters the forest once again. The change in road surface coincides with a change in elevation, and the Way begins the second climb of the day.
About 800 meters later (15 minute walk), when the forest opens to an olive grove at an intersection with another lane, the Way turns to the left. It then skirts the olive grove pictured below, still climbing strongly and coming to another intersection after about 1/4 kilometer. Here it turns to the right, ending the second climb of the day after 8.5 kilometers from the start. Eggi is 1.1 kilometer away and Spoleto 4.0.
Skirting an Olive Grove on the Way to EggiIt is now a strong descent into Eggi, with lots of expansive views as you go! Eggi eventually comes into view.
Descending into EggiApproximately 9.0 kilometers total for this stage, and halfway into the descent to Eggi, you are directed to turn left, continuing on a similar gravel lane.
Eggi draws very near, and just beyond the bend in the photo below, there is another left turn.
Eggi AheadA few minutes walk later, you will arrive at a T-intersection at the bottom of the second climb of the day. Take a right turn, and walk along this gravel lane. Eggi is just 0.3 kilometers away.
Continue for this distance and at the edge of town, arrive at the next intersection and turn to the left along a concrete wall with a chain link fence on the top. I never did see any signs for this turn, but if you are walking up the hill into town, you are going the right way!
Walk up the hill along a continued high wall and come to this T-intersection, below. Turn right towards the 11th century Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo in the center of town.
Entering EggiJust before the church is an archway, that you can see in the photo below, where you can take some time to walk through it and visit the main part of the 14th century Castello di Eggi if you like.
Chiesa di San Michele ArcangeloThe church is definitely worth the stop to see the many well-preserved frescos inside. Below is just one, the 1595 fresco of San Michele Arcangelo, by the "Maestro di Eggi," an unknown artist.
Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo FrescoImmediately after the church is a small café if you need a stop, but there are no practical accommodations for the pilgrim here.
Continue south along the narrow street through town about another 200 meters. Where the narrow street ends at an open square, take a right turn. The sign at this turn says Spoleto is 2.6 kilometers away, but to the Duomo it is still 5.1!
Walk a few blocks and look for a left turn away from the main road, in front of a small chapel, the Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie with a bench out front.
As you walk onward, I suggest you look over your right shoulder to see lovely views of Eggi and its fortifications, this time from below!
Look-Back to EggiYou will remain on this same rural paved road, called the Località Colle Marozzo, for the next full 2.6 kilometers until the edge of Spoleto! Stay straight onwards at any intersection through this distance.
Just after passing a large municipal dog kennel, arrive at this sign for "Colle Marrozzo," pictured below, just before a small drainage, and after about 1.2 kilometers from the turn off at the Madonna delle Grazie church.
The word "colle" means hill in Italian, and you can see from the tire with chains in the photo below, that indeed you will be climbing a hill. Don't fret - it is not that big of a deal at only 35 meters (118 feet) of climbing.
Long, Paved Road Through Località Colle MarozzoAlong this long rural road, come next to the overpass of the SS685 highway. Walk under the road and through the tunnel.
A few minutes later, you will arrive at this intersection, pictured below, at the outskirts of Spoleto (I never did see an entrance sign), 2.6 kilometers from Eggi.
The signage beginning at this turn, now changes for a countdown to the medieval bridge on the other side of Spoleto, the Ponte delle Torri, 3.4 kilometers away. The Via di Francesco will not cross this bridge until a ways after passing the Duomo di Spoleto, where we will end this stage. The Duomo, our destination, is now 2.4 kilometers away.
The Long, Paved Road through the Località Colle Marozzo EndsAnd thus begins the not-so-pleasant suburban walk. Turn left at this intersection, above, and onto the Via Flaminia. Keep left at the immediate Y-intersection after the turn. This is now a walk along a wider city highway, but there is a nice red-brick sidewalk to keep the pilgrimage traveler safe!
A few meters later, notice the turn-off for the Hotel Ristorante Dei Pini, only a block off-route. They offer a pilgrim rate.
A bit more than one-half kilometer total along the Via Flaminia, the Way arrives at the large Conad supermarket on the left side.
The Conad is just before an interchange with several splits in the road. Stay to the far left through the interchange/roundabout and take the first left onto the SR395. Your destination is to cross under the SS3 highway tunnel that you can see ahead.
There is surprisingly good signage through here, but they are a bit difficult to spot!
After the tunnel you will immediately arrive at the next interchange/intersection. You will need to cross over several lanes that feed into the SR 395, in order to make a far right turn to stay on the SR395.
The SR 395 takes a huge hairpin turn to the left as it climbs up a long hill. I did not feel very safe walking along this highway, with no shoulder and no casual path on the other side of the guardrail! It was one of the longest 300 meters I've ever walked, staying hyper-alert! Fortunately, there was not a lot of traffic on it at the time.
When the Way arrives at a row of mausoleums and a bit farther, a row of Cypress trees, shown next, a common tree surrounding cemeteries, you will see a sign leading you to a hard right-turn by a split-rail fence. The sign says the Ponte delle Torri is 2.3 kilometers away, but the Duomo, the end of our stage, is still 1.2 kilometers away.
Right Turn Into the Spoleto CemeteryTake this right turn onto the lane that leads into the Spoleto Cemetery! Whew! The scary road is over!
Come to the flower vendors, and take a left turn onto a path up the hill. The Way now follows the wall of the cemetery and becomes a dirt path, leading you towards the Basilica di San Salvatore at the top of the hill.
Path Towards the Basilica di San SalvatoreThe Basilica di San Salvatore, is an exceptional example of artistic heritage from the Lombard period and is a 4th century UNESCO world heritage property. From the interior frescoes to the repurposed Roman columns, it is a fantastic place to visit. You will arrive at the site after 14.0 kilometers total.
I have no photos of this historic site because it is under extensive post-earthquake renovation and absolutely covered in ugly plywood and scaffolding as you can just see in the photo above. We couldn't even figure out how to see the exterior façade! Click on the link in the above paragraph to see its beauty.
The Way now takes you behind this world heritage church, turning to the right by the side of it and onto the Via Basilica S. Salvatore. It now descends along a paved road, towards the monastery that you can see ahead.
Monastero San PonzianoPilgrims can stay here at the Casa di Ospitalità Religiosa Monastero San Ponziano, which is economical, but there is no inexpensive dormitory accommodation.
Continue to descend along the Via Basilica S. Salvatore and cross under the SS3 highway through a tunnel once again.
When you reach the other side of the tunnel, immediately turn left onto the Via Amadio Francesco Angelo. On the hill above you, you can see the clock tower of the Duomo di Spoleto and La Rocca Albornoziana di Spoleto (Albornoz Fortress of Spoleto)! The Duomo is less than one kilometer away now.
Spoleto Fortress AboveEnjoy the nice descent for the next several hundred meters as the Via Amadio Francesco Angelo takes a big bend to the right, into the heart of the medieval center.
The descent ends when you arrive at this bridge over a dry wash, and the street is now the Via Ponzianina. Cross the bridge, and notice on the other side that there is an entrance to the escalator that you can see in the photo below (the long gray roofed building), that will take you to the top of the hill and to the fortress! But that is not our destination, the cathedral is! Besides, wouldn't it be cheating to take the escalator? Tempting for sure, in our tired state!
Cross Bridge into Medieval Center of SpoletoInstead, begin the final 60 meter (200 feet) incline over the next 400 meter distance to the Duomo!
About 100 meters past the bridge, only a few minutes walk along the Via Ponzianina, and after a sort of "S turn," look for a turn to the left by the building #47 and onto a steep set of stairs, shown below.
Find the Via Mura CiclopicheThese stairs are called the Via Mura Ciclopiche and they consist of the final steps to the cathedral. It is a long, steep 1/4 kilometer climb!
After our long, difficult day from Trevi, and 30 kilometers, I thought my legs were going to collapse. But, of course, they did not and upward I slogged! The impossible was now achievable. Then the destination was in full view, below, with the clock tower visible first.
Final Steps to the Cathedral of SpoletoAnd finally, the most incredible cathedral was before us! It glowed as the afternoon sun caught it perfectly, under the stormy skies.
12th Century Duomo di SpoletoAnd here is a close-up of the Byzantine-style mosaic, dated 1207! Incredible!
Close-Up of the Mosaic Façade, Duomo di SpoletoWe were so tired that we decided to wait to see the interior of the cathedral until the next day, which we were spending as tourists. It is a special place, containing the original, signed letter from St Francis to Brother Leo!! See our article on Spoleto (coming soon!).
We crashed into the café table next to the cathedral with the best view of all and splurged on two Aperol spritzes! After we got the bill for the beverages, I did have sticker shock and buyer's remorse! Oh well! The spritzes never tasted so good, for sure!
Celebratory Aperol SpritzesAccommodations in Spoleto
As you might expect in a tourist town, there are many choices for accommodation.
There is only one inexpensive choice at the Centro di Pastorale Giovanile "Giovanni Paolo II" (contact +39 331 34 87 043, Don Pierluigi, or +39 392 58 87 677, Suor (Sister) Lorella) with your own sleeping bag on the ground, and by donation. You will walk right by the monastery if you take the alternative route from Trevi in orange (see interactive map above). It is located 600 meters due west of the San Ponziano monastery if you are coming in on the blue route.
We chose to stay at La Bracceschina, a comfortable studio apartment near the center, since we were staying for two nights and wanted to economize our meals. I can recommend it.
La Suite and the Dimora del Teatro, also apartments, are both more economical and near the Roman theater ruins on the western side of the medieval center.
The Hotel Clitunno, the Ospitalità Collicola and the Hotel Charleston are the only economical hotels I could find near the center: the others are quite expensive for a pilgrim. However, if you don't mind staying away from the tourist center, there are more economical accommodations. Just do a search for Spoleto on booking.com.
Reflections, The Way of St. Francis, Poreta to Spoleto
This was a very enjoyable stage, with the many medieval towns to walk through. I do not regret walking from Trevi, since we had a most enjoyable day in Spoleto the next day. However, I clearly would not do so much distance with so much elevation change, if I did not have the next day off.
If you only do the short stage from Poreta, you would arrive early enough in the afternoon to see the best sites anyway. The choice is yours.
Salutation
May your own Way of St. Francis from Poreta to Spoleto start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and eventually do the impossible! Especially if you walk from Trevi or beyond! Ultreia!
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Walk in the Footsteps of St. Francis, and Connect Deeply to the Saint and to Nature in the Marvelous Italian Countryside!
Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!
Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from! (See more of our gear recommendations! )
Gregory BackPack ~ My Favorite Brand
Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel!
Booking.com
My absolute favorite book on how to be a pilgrim:
Your Opinion Matters! Comments
Have you had a similar experience, have some advice to give, or have something else you'd like to share? We would love to hear from you! Please leave us a comment in the box below.