Our day eleven on the Camino Portugués was a lonely walk through small towns, not-so-nice industrial areas that surprised us with a "spirited" Camino Angel, yet also included a joyful reunion with our Aussie mates after two days of separation.
"The soul that sees beauty may sometimes walk alone." ~ Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Don't you think that it is interesting that I would include a quote on loneliness when I was walking with my husband, Rich? Indeed, while we shared one another's company, we also walked in silence on the long and lonely roads, without sight of another pilgrim.
Our day eleven on the Camino Portugués also invited us to discuss, once again the meaning of it all - life, happiness, pilgrimage and our purpose in life.
Here is the map I created from my own geotracks on the app on my phone. The map is entirely interactive, if you are online. I only placed the albergues/hotels/cafés on the map that we visited. For a complete list of accommodations from the Camino forums, click here.
Interactive Google Map of Day Eleven on the Camino Portugués
There are not a lot of services along the route, but there are enough, if you plan the day right. There are lots of gorgeous places to stop for a picnic if you have food with you. As always, my advice is to keep food and plenty of water in your pack at all times.
I have included a link to the same map, as above, but with my photos superimposed on the Way, to give it a different life, if you are interested. Click here to see it.
Next is the elevation profile for the day. Ups and down are the norm, with a descent to Águeda on the river, and then a short climb back up. With only 25 kilometers to accomplish, for me, this day was quite manageable.
Our day began bright and early, at dawn, close to 0700. We had had a cold breakfast of bread, cheese and gorgeous in-season strawberries in our room, including cold milk into which we stirred instant coffee! Whala! No need to find an open café right away. We knew that there were few services on this leg so we had a pack filled with supplies we bought in Mealhada.
The town fountain greeted us as we walked out of the Residencial Hilário and albergue complex, and onto the Rua Fonte (Fountain Street). You can see the fountain on the right, in the white with the red roof.
The road was wet, as it had rained during the night. We got into a rhythm quickly as we walked along, turning left to jon the Rua Carvalhas, below.
The Rua Carvalas quickly turns to dirt and walks out of Mealhada and into the countryside. I was energetic as I always am to start the day. We were one of the few pilgrims at the Hilário complex so once again, we were alone on the Way.
Following the well waymarked path, we turned into a lovely eucalyptus forest, by now a common sight.
Out of the forest in another quarter kilometer, we followed the waymark towards the first town of Alpalhão.
It was here that the dusky sky started to darken. We even saw lightning in the clouds ahead. So far there was absolutely no rain on our pilgrimage! Was day eleven on the Camino Portugués finally going to be the exception?
I have to say that I didn't care if it rained! I was enchanted by the tumultuous-looking sky.
By the time we arrived in town, it actually looked like it may have already rained.
After walking through town, we noticed the very, very green fields of vines, the future home of the delicious grapes that would be turned into Portuguese wine - we hoped!
In another third of a kilometer, all of a sudden, it seemed the sky just opened up as the sun was rising higher in the sky!
On the Estrada Poços, more verdant fields greeted us as we walked towards the next town of Aguim.
The first group of animals appeared, these sheep below. This would be a recurrent theme for our day eleven on the Camino Portugués.
The Camino essentially walks around the town of Aguim on the Estrada da Várzea. No cafes to be seen anywhere thus far, about five kilometers into our day.
In another kilometer after Aguim on the Estrada da Várzea, we came to a T-intersection where there is school to the right and a huge sports complex for the Municipality of Anadia ahead. The Way goes left along the nice, smooth path shown below.
We walked along this nice athletic path on the southside of the complex, then turned right on the school road on the westside with the school stadium still on our right.
The Portuguese Way travels around this large complex, to rejoin the main road on the northside, towards Anadia.
After the school sports complex, we walked through a roundabout, then climbed a hill on a busy paved road, the Rua Prof. Dr. Rodrigues Lapa. We walked through the second roundabout, and took a more northerly direction on the Rua da Bela Vista, all the while skirting the center of Anadia to the West.
We turned left here at the Largo Avenida and this gorgeous Portuguese home.
I loved the "Anadia" green sign in the photo below, announcing that indeed, this is where we were! Here is where we turned left on the Rua Justino Sampaio Alegre.
We continued to skirt the town to the west on this lovely street, the Rua Justino Sampaio Alegre, lined with spring-blooming trees and yet another foot path to the right.
We crossed over the street and joined the footpath, since it was definitely easier on the feet than the cobblestone sidewalk to the left. The view of the valley to our left was gorgeous, with the light shining through the clouds.
The sun continued to break through, as you can see in the photos above and below. Next, it was a small uphill climb to the church, below.
We still had not seen any open cafés so far along the route despite what the guides said and despite walking almost a full 8 kilometers on day eleven on the Camino Portugués.
Continuing to walk north around Anadia, we were back into the countryside in no time. Here we are on our way into the next small town of Alféloas. The "town mayor" greeted us and walked with us into town! It was as if he was waiting for the next pilgrimage traveler to come along!
Our day of meeting animals was continuing! We so enjoyed our escort to town.
It wasn't until we entered the center of Alféloas that we found this open café, below, at almost exactly 10 kilometers into our day. It was perfect timing for us for our first break and I was ready to put up my feet and have a real cup of coffee ~ and pastry, of course!
Our only clue that this building was a café was the red Sagres beer sign by the door! It had no name and no identification outside at all! If you are in need of a cup of coffee or a bite to eat, look closely to find it!
The proprietress of this café was extremely friendly and helpful. We had a lively conversation with another local (mostly one-sided on her part) regarding the legend of Fátima. She was negating the phenomenon, and while everything she said was valid, I did not want to burst the concept. It was better to believe and feel the magic of the legend and of the Camino while I was here!
After a longer break than planned we set off again, and lo and behold, another dog was on the north side waiting to escort us out of town! We laughed as he trotted along with us as we left Alféloas, then veered off, most likely to wait for the next pilgrim to come along!
After leaving Alféloas, the pilgrimage traveler must walk through one of two industrial areas on day eleven of the Camino Portugués.
The next section of the Camino is about 1.5 kilometers of industrial buildings and then lots of eucalyptus forest growing and harvesting sites.
The Rua Solidariedade was a long, straight paved secondary road, that gave way to more secondary roads as you follow the waymarks and yellow arrows to the next town. I took no photos during this stretch as it was one of the few areas that held little appeal to me.
And then, suddenly we turned right onto the familiar IC2, to walk into Avelãs de Caminho, below.
As we walked through town, there were restaurants and cafés along the Way, so if you need to take a break and get some food you can do it here.
We turned off the IC2, to walk left here at this capela.
The Rua Combatentes walks through Avelãs and on the north side, we approached this wonderful chapel with a rest area in a town called Coito. I would have loved to have a break here, if only the timing was appropriate for our day eleven on the Portuguese Camino.
The next town along the way is Póvoa do Costelo, below.
Farther along in Póvoa do Costelo, on the Rua Combatentes we encountered the fountain, below, the Fonte de São João or Fountain of St. John. It did not appear functional, and we never drank from any of these wayside fountains.
Just beyond the fountain, at this small chapel, in the Square of St. John, below, the Camino turns left on the Rua Alto da Póvoa.
In about one-third kilometer, this gorgeous quinta, or estate shows up on your right.
The Camino Portugués, on day eleven follows the Rua Alto da Póvoa for about a kilometer and a half, all the way to Aguadela, below.
Here is a very inviting park bench under the weeping willow tree in Aguadela where stopped for our lunch.
A sweet and friendly kitty soon jumped up on the park bench with us, after we opened our can of tuna to have with crackers.
Walking on after lunch, the intersection, below appeared, with its teeny tiny chapel.
Barely a kilometer from Aguadela, we walked into Aguada de Baixo, below and through the town square.
Yet another blue, Azulejo tile church greeted us on the north side of town. There is also a nice information board here, in front of the church.
Essentially head straight north after the church, following rural roads lined with country houses and the occasional eucalyptus forest. The road name changes several times as you walk straight on, but it is unimportant as the waymarks are obvious and easy to follow.
Landiosa is a small town you walk through, turning right onto the Rua Estrada Velha. This road ends at a T-intersection and you turn right on the Rua Porto da Moita to walk east under the familiar IC2 once again.
At the first roundabout after about 1/3 kilometer, you turn left or north once again on an unnamed street into an area called Barró. This is not a pretty area and you are entering the second industrial area of the day.
Fortunately, the road is wide with a nice shoulder for the pilgrimage traveler to walk on!
A large roundabout, below, greets you and you walk straight on.
It was blistering hot in April of 2017, as we walked along this ugly, industrial road, and not losing our spirit was our challenge.
My voice journal reflects how badly I felt! Everything hurt, my back, my neck and my shoulders. I even said that this was going to be my last Camino!
I was just not feeling it today! Rich continued to push hard to keep moving.I would stop to take photos, just because I had to bleepin' stop. I guess he just wanted to get the walk over with! I was most definitely feeling very alone through this section.
It was another day on total pavement. The pounding on the pavement was just killing me! What started out as a possibility of rain, literally dried up and fried us in the afternoon as the sun beat on us to death.
The exhaustion, the pounding, the pavement, the industrial zone and the ugliness is all part of the Caminho. There was nothing to do other than to keep placing one foot after the other and keep going, regardless of how hot we were and regardless of how slowly I moved.
And then, when all was despair as we were walking up a long, hot, paved hill, above photo, a gentlemen came running out of a building as we were walking by, yelling to us, "Momentito, momentito," and then in English, "Wait a minute, can you wait a minute?!!" We turned around, looked at him as he pointed with his finger to wait and ran back into the building.
After a moment or two he came back out with two plastic bags, one for each of us. In it were two apples and a bottle of wonderfully cold water!
What a sight for the pilgrimage traveler's eyes! We grinned from ear to ear and said "obrigado" so many times!
As it turned out, our Camino Angel was running out of a very famous Aguardente manufacturing company. If you haven't heard of Aguardente (we were introduced to it on day two), it is the Portuguese version of firewater, like nothing else we've had! Yes, it is a very potent clear liquor that will warm your mouth, throat, stomach and perhaps your heart too, if you are inclined to like strong spirits.
While Mr. Nelson did not give us any Aguardente to sample, as he knew we might not finish our day eleven on the Camino Portugués if he had, he did give us a brief tour of the storeroom and the family history of its production.
Here is a photo of him and Rich, eating one of the crisp, cold apples!
I just had to take a photo of the blue mural on the wall, outside of the Aguardente building. Had we not been stopped by Mr. Nelson, I doubt I would have even noticed the place. In a spot where all I could think of was how fast I could walk through the industrial zone, one of the most magical things on our Camino happened!
As it is often said, if you miss any steps along the way, whether through the good, the bad or the ugly, you may miss something that was intended just for you!
I was glad that we hadn't missed these steps through the industrial area on day eleven of our Camino Portugués. Our Camino Angel had renewed my strength and my belief in the kindness of the human heart!
We said goodbye, as we walked and drank our cold water and ate the most delicious apples I have ever eaten!
Especially after this event, and throughout our day, Rich and I debated the meaning of our own lives. Of course, acts of kindness are a must. Going out of our way to help when we can, is a must.
We contemplated what needed cleaning out in our own lives, and decided that we had simplified, downsized and de-stressed quite a bit already. We didn't feel like we needed to simplify our lives any farther. We were both newly retired and finding the pleasure of doing what we wished and when we wished. This was all quite satisfying until Rich's mother suffered her stroke the year prior. Suddenly, our lives were changed.
Sneaking away for a 4-week Camino after nine months of parent-care was restful, nurturing and indulgent, to say the least! I relished this time, both with Rich, and with my aloneness.
Finally, after about 2 kilometers on the industrial road, we spied the yellow arrow on a pole, below. It was time to turn off this busy road, finally.
A dash across the street, and onto the Rua Estrada Real, below.
Compared to the busy industrial road, the Estrada Real was narrow and wall-lined, but not busy at all.
Here we paused for a breather, where the direction continued straight on.
At this pause, looking left, the nice rural countryside appeared once again!
In approximately another kilometer, we start the downhill descent into Águeda, and we could see it up ahead.
Onward through a south suburb...
In a very short while the Way opens up and intersects with the busy N1, below. Fortunately, we crossed the N1 to a quiet cobblestone path, by walking straight ahead.
Crossing the busy N1 here, we were surprised to walk into Águeda on the lovely Rua Dr. Manuel Pinto, a cobblestone path, then a quiet road for about a half a kilometer...
until joining the main road, the N1, to cross the bridge over the Rio Águeda, below, and into the heart of town.
The first blue tile building across the bridge, to the right, in the photo above, and in the photo below, was an inviting looking café along the river, with outdoor tables. We walked around and down to the plaza to enjoy its view and order a café con leite and a pastry.
We knew that we still had a long uphill climb out of Águeda after our break to end our day.
If you don't want to climb the final hill to complete the traditional stage, you can always book a place down by the river. Click here to see your options. There is a placed called the Águeda Hostal and Friends, which is a private albergue that allows you to prebook, if that is important to you.
We opted to walk onward, the 2 kilometers or so, up the steep hill through town. After crossing the river, the Rio Águeda, the Camino continues along the N1, below.
I found this waymark to be interesting, showing "albergue" embedded into the arrow on the waymark. I think this one was the first and only one like this we saw. I would not be surprised if it was place by the Hotel Celeste/Albergue Sto António!
This final hill climb on the narrow shoulder of the N1 was not too pleasant, nor was it too bad. I was indeed happy to have had the coffee and pastry down by the river!
Here is Rich waving to me, to come on!
At the top of the hill, the welcoming sign of the Residencial Celeste finally appeared!
This is the place where the Albergue Sto. António is also located. It looks like it is at a separate location on a Google map, but it is not. You can see the brown sign in the photo below, to the right of the reception door that says, "Albergue Reception Here." Both facilities are run by the Residencial Celeste.
The albergue building is separate and off to the north side, while the white building, above contains the hotel part. We asked to see the albergue, and they had this lovely room for two, below, for less than the hotel, so we took it! It was private enough for us.
The dormitory rooms are of various sizes, and all are located upstairs in the separate building. There was only one other gentleman staying here the same night.
The shared shower facilities were down the stairs, outside and around the back. The kitchen facilities were also downstairs, and quite well-appointed. The courtyard, below, was calling out an invitation to cook on this sunny and glorious day.
Fortunately, there is a Lidl supermarket only 1/3 kilometer back down the street we had come.
And much to our pleasure, our Aussie friends, Christine and Chris were staying at the hotel! While we had not seen them along the Camino Portugués on day eleven, but we ran into them hanging out clothes to dry on the community line. They had arrived just before us.
We invited them to dinner, which we cooked. A large salad, bread dipped in olive oil and balsamic, and pasta with sauteed chicken, drenched in olive oil, garlic and parmesan cheese sauce. And of course, Portuguese wine! It was an unforgettable evening!
Our Australian friends were fast becoming true friends!
I must say, that this was the worst day so far on our Camino.
All-in-all both Rich and I were satisfied that we had already done alot of our own "junk" clearing. In the Scandinavian culture they call this "death cleaning." It simply means that you clear out your belongings so when you die, your children don't have to!
Rich and I had already simplified to the max, downsizing just about everything in our home. We live in a small cabin in the mountains of southern Colorado, and there is not a lot of room for much!
We had just finished cleaning out Rich's mother's home, of 90 years of living! It was an extremely difficult task, and we would not wish it on anyone!
The small problem, is that now we had also inherited quite a few of his mother's things, that we just couldn't throw or give away. Things that we thought might have some value. They are still sitting in our small storage shed. Something to tackle when we get home.
We decided that our purpose for this Camino, was to walk together and yet alone. We needed to just be, to just be present to something other than someone else's needs and to care for ourselves and our relationship.
We knew our purpose was still to care for Rich's mother when we got back, yet for me, I felt we needed to find more balance in this care.
Being thrown suddenly into his mother's care meant cleaning out her home, moving her across the USA, finding placement near us, and meeting her physical and emotional needs as she transitioned from total independance to almost total care in a nursing facility.
All of this occurred so suddenly and unexpectedly in our lives that it had thrown us out of balance. The Camino was helping us discuss how we would find this balance once again, upon our return home.
I had been very happy with my holistic health coaching website and my Pilgrimage Traveler musings. They were both creating a very small income, but more importantly they were the full expressions of me.
Rich was happily involved in volunteering for the local fire department, working a myriad of projects on our ranchette and now, absorbed in the care of his mother.
We chatted long and hard about how our lives were going to look when we got home. I really didn't even want to think about it much. I just wanted to enjoy the walk, the time alone, the time together, and now also making wonderful new friends with the Australian couple.
May your own day eleven on the Camino Portugués be filled with contemplation and insight on how you can clean out your own life, how to simplify, balance and fine tune the discovery of your unique purpose!
***Please note that we will be walking the Central Route of the Camino Portugués in April of 2018. We hope to add to your understanding of the many ways on the Camino in Portugal, with our Ebook of this route that will be coming soon!
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Our recommendation for the best trekking pole. Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) makes them ultra light weight and invisible to airport security x-rays! Carry on the aircraft anywhere and save yourself lots of headaches. It worked repeatedly for us! Also hide your poles in your pack from potential thieves, before you get to your albergue! (See more of our gear recommendations!)
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