Day Sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués ~ Vairão (Vilarinho) to Barcelinhos (Barcelos), 28.8 Km (17.9 Miles)

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Day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués was a day full of surprises. We continued to gather strong and capable men to help us fulfill our purpose. Rich and I have always attracted people who need help, and I have learned to no longer ask "Why?" but to smile and think, "Bring it on God!" when I see it unfold once again. But this time we were not asked to do it alone. 

"In helping others we shall help ourselves, for whatever good we give out completes the circle and comes back to us." ~ Flora Edwards

I call this the Circle of Love. This was to be our recurrent theme on our Camino de Santiago, in the days ahead. 

Map and Stats of Day Sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués

Here is our map with our GPS tracks, and important albergues/hotels/cafés/grocery stores/places of interest along the way, both ones we visited and ones we did not. 

If you are starting your day in Vilarinho, you can subtract about 1.7 kilometers from the total kilometers for the day, and begin your measurements at the center of town, at the main intersection by the church.

As you can see from our elevation profile of the day, there is a cumulative elevation gain of about 550 meters (1800 ft.), and an equal amount of loss, mostly in the final kilometers into Barcelos. With almost 29 km to walk from Vairão, or about 27 kilometers from Vilarinho, this will take some energy and frequent breaks. There are many opportunities to shorten this day, as you will see as you read along. 

Elevation Profile for Day Sixteen, Central Route, Camino Portugués, Vilarinho to BarcelosElevation Profile for Day Sixteen, Central Route, Camino Portugués, Vilarinho to Barcelos

Photo-Rich Travelogue of Day Sixteen, Central Route of the Camino Portugués

We woke up to a misty morning, our first time here, and the view from our window in the albergue was stunning! I hoped it would be a nice omen for the day! I can't tell you how much we have enjoyed our stays at the Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão.

View From Our Room in the Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão, on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayView From Our Room ~ Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão

The evening before, on day fifteen, Matt had informed us of his desire to set off with us in the morning. As always, we were happy to have company. Magnus chose to sleep in, and we knew he would easily catch up to us along the way. 

We walked back up the hill from the albergue, past the monastery church, the Igreja de Mosteiro de Vairão, below, to take the right turn just after the small chapel, the Nossa Senhora da Lapa, shown next.

The Igreja de Mosteiro de Vairão at SunriseThe Igreja de Mosteiro de Vairão at Sunrise
Capela Nossa Senhora da LapaTurn Right at the Capela Nossa Senhora da Lapa

After the right turn at the chapel, you join the Camino along this high-walled cobblestone road, shown below. You can see Rich and Matt setting off in the low morning light. 

Rich and Matt Setting off on the cobblestone of the Rua de São Bento, in Vilarinho Portugal on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésRich and Matt Setting off on the Cobblestone of the Rua de São Bento

This high-walled cobblestone road takes a big bend and in about 600 meters, the Camino diverts to the right from it onto a nice path through the forest.

One-half kilometer later the path ends at a T-intersection in Vilarinho and the Camino turns right onto the Rua dos Sobreiros, a narrow cobblestone street, shown below. 

Rich and Matt Upon Entering Vilarinho, Portugal on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésRich and Matt Upon Entering Vilarinho

After only a few meters, you come to an intersection where you will see the sign directing you to the left and it's 60 meters to the Casa Familia Vidal Vilarinho, if your pilgrimage takes you there for the night. The Camino carries on straight. 

Several hundred meters later, turn left onto a two-lane, paved road. In another 150 meters or so when this street ends, take the next left onto the N104 and in a few strides you are in the center of town where the EN306 intersects with it. 

There is a wonderful little chapel here, on this corner, also called the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lapa, with a reflecting pool. We arrived in perfect time for the sunrise shot, shown below. What a lovely sight to begin the day!

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da LapaIgreja de Nossa Senhora da Lapa

Right by the church, on the corner is the Café Central here in the center of Vilarinho if needed 1.7 kilometers from the monastery albergue. It advertises that it opens at 0530. It was open at 0730 when we walked by. We had bought groceries for our breakfast in the monastery, so we were all set for the day. 

Vilarinho is a small place and we turned right and north onto the EN306 and quickly walked through town. By two kilometers into the day, we were on the north side, leaving town, shown below.

The turn for the Casa da Laura, another possible accommodation, is easy to spot from the Camino, on the EN306 as you are leaving town to the north. Look for the turn by Café CJ's (not pictured). CJ's was not open as we walked by.

Leaving Vilarinho ~ Northward on the Busy EN306, on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésLeaving Vilarinho ~ Northward on the Busy EN306

The Camino walks along the EN306 for not quite a kilometer, and along the way you come to a decision point, shown in the distance in the photo below, and up close in the next photo. 

If you look closely in the photo below, you will see someone waiting at the decision point. Can it be that this person is in a wheelchair? WOW!

Rich Approaching the First Decision Point in Vilarinho, Portugal on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésRich Approaching the First Decision Point

The young woman in the wheelchair was checking her guidebook to see which way she should go. We quickly reached the decision point, and I, being a nurse with lots of physical rehabilitation experience, introduced myself and started chatting with her. I asked her if I could be of assistance. 

Close-Up of Sign at Decision Point in VilarinhoClose-Up of Sign at Decision Point in Vilarinho

The young woman introduced herself as Magdalena, from Austria (no there are no kangaroos there - ha - our inside joke), and she stated that she was trying to select the best wheelchair route. We listened to her decision-making process. She wanted to see the historic bridge, built in 1185 and a historic mill, on the route straight on, but was worried that the Way following the bridge would be too hard for her to negotiate. The alternative for her was to stay on the busy EN306.

Without hesitation, Rich, whose own sister was in a wheelchair for many years, said, "Come with us, we'll push you out on the other side!" I looked at Matt for confirmation, and he also quickly agreed that he would help push her. We agreed that running along the busy highway was no choice at all. We would all have to see the bridge!

We set off on the straight and forward route, which shortly leaves the EN306 to the right and proceeds to steeply descend toward the River Ave and the 12th Century bridge. This is the alternative route in orange, on my map above and is the best for wheeled pilgrims. Along the way is the Monumental Gate to pilgrims, below, which the official route eventually passes through.

Monumental Pilgrim's Gate, Ponte do Ave, Portugal on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésMonumental Pilgrim's Gate

If instead, you turn to the left at the decision point and go onto the official route, the shortest and the best option on foot, a few steps onward, you turn to the right on this lovely cobblestone road, below.

Cobblestone Road Leading to the Pilgrim's GateRight Turn Onto This Cobblestone Road Leading to the Pilgrim's Gate

A short quarter kilometer later, the road comes to the N306 again, crosses it and picks up a short, steep little path, shown next, that walks you through the pilgrim’s gate from above, to join the alternative route.

Path to Monumental Pilgrim's Gate from AbovePath to Monumental Pilgrim's Gate from Above

On the alternative route, Magdalena whizzed down the smoothly paved Rua da Ponte de Ave in no time at all and wheeled herself onto the bridge, gazing into the waters. She arrived long before we did on foot!

12th Century Bridge ~ Ponte D. Zameiro12th Century Bridge ~ Ponte D. Zameiro
Magdalena Gazes Into the Water at the Ponte D. Zameiro, in Ponte do Ave, Portugal on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésMagdalena Gazes Into the Water at the Ponte D. Zameiro

Seeing this young woman on the bridge warmed my heart, and for me, sealed her fate on the Camino. What a free and courageous soul she was to undertake the Central Route of the Camino Portugués in a chair! And she had come alone!

However, the men were to have their work cut out for them on the other side. The steep ascent on cobblestone from the river and through the town of Bagunte was not for the faint of heart. You can see this "V" dip down to the river and back in the elevation profile map above, for day sixteen on the Portuguese Camino. The bridge is at 3.5 kilometers into the day. 

Rich put his head down and went to work, as you can see below. I had trouble keeping up with him without pushing! The volunteer fireman kicked in bigtime! 

Rich Pushing Magdalena Up the Cobblestone Rua Dom Zameiro, Ponte do Ave, Portugal on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésRich Pushing Magdalena Up the Cobblestone Rua Dom Zameiro

Just beyond the bridge, in Bagunte, is a fountain, if you need water. You will also soon pass by the the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda, the town church.

The next 3.5 kilometers to São Mamede, the following town, were to be difficult and uphill, on cobblestone the whole way, even though these next photos do not really show the altitude. Rich and Matt shared the job of pushing Magdalena most of this way.  

Elevation Eases But Still Up on CobblestoneElevation Eases But Still Up on Cobblestone

After only about not quite a kilometer from the bridge, we came to a T-intersection where we turned right to re-join the EN306 and came to yet another decision point. We all decided NOT to continue on the highway, as before, but the guys would continue to push Magdalena, as we took the left turn onto the Estrada de Santagões toward the town of the same name.  

2nd Decision Point on the EN306 on day sixteen of the Central Route of the Camino Portugués2nd Decision Point on the EN306

This was a nice paved and more flat road for a brief while. Within another 1/2 kilometer, we turned right at a T-intersection onto yet another cobblestone road in Santagões, below, called the Rua de São Miguel.

The Quaint Rua de São Miguel in Santagões on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésThe Quaint Rua de São Miguel in Santagões

After only a few hundred meters, we came to an intersection, with a nice bench and a sign for the Pão Quente Snack Bar in Santagões. It looked welcoming, however we were just at 5.0 km into the day. It was too soon for us to stop, so we turned left here instead, as directed.

Pão Quente Snack BarPão Quente Snack Bar on day sixteen of the Central Route of the Camino Portugués

We took an almost immediate left again after the snackbar, at this intersection with the M525, below, leaving Santagões on the way to São Mamede.

Left Turn Here onto M525 in Santagões on day sixteen of the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésLeft Turn Here onto M525

A short distance on the M525 and we turned again onto another quiet cobblestone road. This uphill trek on the cobblestone was wearing on me. I had somehow developed a small blister on the outside of my right big toe the prior day, without even knowing about it. I had put Compeed on it, so it didn't really bother me, however, my right hip was talking instead! It didn't like it! I can't imagine how the guys felt, pushing the wheelchair, as they did throughout all these cobblestone roads. 

Lovely, Painful Cobblestone Roads with Abundant Wisteria  on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésLovely, Painful Cobblestone Roads with Abundant Wisteria

The cobblestone ends abruptly and becomes a farmer's lane, where we had a brief reprieve from the cobblestone, photo below. Magdalena was easily able to propel herself through this section.  

Magdalena Wheels Herself on Farmer's Lane on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésMagdalena Wheels Herself on Farmer's Lane

All of a sudden, the dirt lane turned to a muddy mess, a situation very difficult to negotiate with a wheelchair. Matt took a turn pushing Magdalena through the mud. Here we are, having a look-back at the cause of the mud. A drainage pipe pouring its contents onto the road!

Drainage Pipe Turns the Road to Mud on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésDrainage Pipe Turns the Road to Mud

At about the 7.0 kilometer mark on day sixteen of the Camino Portugués, Central Route, we came to the EN306, where the highway route would have rejoined the scenic route. This marked the end of the 3.5 kilometer climb up from the medieval bridge on the River Ave as we entered the town. 

Here in São Mamede, we crossed over the EN306 and turned onto yet another high-walled, cobblestone road, taking a nice scenic route through town, passing by the Capela de São Mamede and several cafés. 

Rich Pushes Magdalena Thru São Mamede on Cobblestone Street on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésRich Pushes Magdalena Thru São Mamede on Cobblestone Street

Leaving town in a northerly direction, the Camino returns to the pavement, shown next, first starting out on cobblestone for about 400 meters, then using a nice paved road for about the next kilometer, as it winds down and goes under the A7. Magdalena was in her independent glory through here and flew down the road ahead of us. 

Magdalena Rolls Easily on the PavementMagdalena Rolls Easily on the Pavement

Along the pavement we paused for a breath and a photo, with Magdalena and her two pushers. 

Matt, Magdalena and Rich on the Quiet RoadMatt, Magdalena and Rich on the Quiet Road

The pavement then becomes a dirt lane just before the tunnel under the A7 highway at about 8.6 kilometers into the day.

The Portuguese countryside is stunning as the views opened shortly onward. 

Wide Open Portuguese Countryside, Arcos AheadWide Open Portuguese Countryside, Arcos Ahead

Here is a wonderful close-up of the church in Arcos, as we walked closer. 

Igreja de ArcosIgreja de Arcos

Within 1/2 kilometer, when the dirt lane ends at a T-intersection, the Camino turns right and joins the EN306 for a few steps. It was here that Magnus caught up to us for the day. He was surprised to see us with Magdalena in a chair, as he joined in with the group.          

Magnus Catches Up With the Group on the EN306Magnus Catches Up With the Group on the EN306

After a left turn off the EN306, we came almost immediately to the Ponte de São Miguel dos Arcos, the bridge, perhaps of Roman origin, shown below. There is little information about this particular bridge, and a bit of speculation. It was on the main Roman road from Porto to Galicia, that is certain, and also certain is that it is an historic bridge. 

Ponte de São Miguel dos ArcosPonte de São Miguel dos Arcos

Just 150 meters after the bridge, the Camino takes a left turn onto the road into the next town of Arcos.

Walking on the road through the town of Arcos, we turned right at an information board, and past this beautiful azulejo (blue-tiled) Church of Arcos. I never tire of these Portuguese tiled wonders!

Azulejo-Tiled Igreja de Arcos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésAzulejo-Tiled Igreja de Arcos

Just beyond the church, the Camino turns to the right here, at the cross in town. This cross marked 10 kilometers for our day. 

Right Turn at Cross in Arcos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésRight Turn at Cross in Arcos

Not much farther on is this lovely little chapel. 

Chapel in Arcos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayChapel in Arcos

And across from the chapel a café definitely called our name! At 10.1 kilometers into the day, it was definitely time to get our second café con leite. Rich was especially happy for the boost, since he had exerted so much already pushing Magdalena. 

Café Barbosa in Arcos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésCafé Barbosa in Arcos

If you need a splurge, and your day ends in Arcos, right along the Camino in Arcos are these three accommodations: Casa S. FelixQuinta São Miguel de Arcos and the Villa d'Arcos. See the map above for their locations. 

We walked on after our break, taking a right at a Y-intersection just after the café. From the Y, it is essentially a straight shot north on uninteresting pavement for a full three kilometers, until this roundabout and statue in the next town of Rates. Easy for Magdalena, boring for us on foot. 

Entering Rates at Roundabout on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayEntering Rates on Day Sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese Way

There is an 11th century Romanesque Church in town, the Igreja de São Pedro de Rates, just west of the roundabout shown, and is one of the oldest of its kind in Portugal. It is now a museum and worth a stop if you have the time and energy to see it. Click here if you want more information about this church. 

I did not know about the church, and since it is about 1/2 kilometer off-Camino, we didn't see it as we walked on through the east side of town, shown below. 

Walking Through the East Side of Rates on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésWalking Through the East Side of Rates

There is a donativo albergue in Rates, the Albergue de Peregrinos de São Pedro de Rates, just past the first town cross. There are 50 places here in four rooms, so if you need to stop for the night, most likely you will have a bed. The albergue lies at 13.4 kilometers into the day

Albergue de Peregrinos de São Pedro de RatesAlbergue de Peregrinos de São Pedro de Rates

There is also the Casa de Mattos (+351 919 822 398) a few steps off the Camino, just to the left of the first town cross, a "turismo rural." Also, right at this juncture with the first town cross is the Casa Anabela (+351 919 578 642). Finally, if you were to walk left at the first town cross, then take your first right, then the next right, you would come to the Casa da Vila, after ½ kilometer, and north of the Romanesque church. This turismo rural gets rave reviews on AirBnB. 

There are several cafés near here, including the Restaurante Regional O Peregrino and the D'Volta, right along the Way, close to the albergue. Immediately to the north of the albergue is a grocery store across from the Capela de Sto. Antonio, built in 1692! The Camino walks you between the two.  

Capela de Sto. Antonio and Minimercado, Rates PortugalCapela de Sto. Antonio and Minimercado

The chapel was open, when we passed by and we paused to admire the very simple altar, below.

Capela de Sto. Antonio, AltarCapela de Sto. Antonio, Altar

Farther on in Rates, at this second town cross the Camino goes to the right. 

Right Turn at Cross in Rates, Portugal on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Camino PortuguésRight Turn at Second Cross in Rates

About 1/2 kilometer after the second cross in Rates, on the CM1129-3, the cobblestone turns into a dirt road. Nice and flat and even, shown in the photo below. We did not understand what lay ahead!

Leaving Rates on the Dirt CM1129-3 on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayMagnus, Magdalena and Matt Leaving Rates on the Dirt CM1129-3

Interestingly, the road here, after crossing over from the Porto district to the Braga district, after about one kilometer on the dirt, is now called the Rua Caminho de Santiago! What could be more appropriate than the Camino de Santiago street? Sounds like an authentic route, doesn't it? 

You will also pass the first concrete mojón after entering the Braga district, signaling that Santiago is 209 kilometers away.

And then, quite suddenly, the road turned to mud, full of ruts and run off! Not easy for our chair-bound friend. But the Camino was there for her and two more able-bodied Portuguese men suddenly appeared! Talk about the Camino providing! I just ran along and documented it all. What a feat!

Magnus and Pedro Guide Magdalena Through the RutsMagnus and Pedro Guide Magdalena Through the Ruts

Here they all are, the Magdalena Mud Team! Pedro and Jorge from Portugal who just joined us, Magnus, Rich and Matt. They took turns, half-guiding, half-carrying Magdalena's chair and exerted some serious energy getting her through this tough portion. Magdalena's courage stayed strong through it all!

The Magdalena Mud Team guides the wheelchair through the mud and ruts on the Rua Caminho de Santiago on day sixteen of the Central Route of the Portuguese WayWe Can Do This!

The Rua Caminho de Santiago levels out farther on, but the ruts were still there. Here Pedro takes the wheels. 

Pedro Pushes Magdalena Through More RutsPedro Pushes Magdalena Through More Ruts

And then at last, the dirt road gets better, but the guys continue to take turns pushing Magdalena on day sixteen of the Central Route on the Camino Portugués

Onward on the Rua Caminho de Santiago on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayOnward on the Rua Caminho de Santiago

There is now a lovely and new picnic area about ¼ kilometer after entering the Braga district, with the famous Barcelos Rooster. You will see him frequently in the kilometers to come, see farther below for more. 

Picnic Area with Barcelos RoosterPicnic Area with Barcelos Rooster

And then near disaster strikes. As Magdalena was being wheeled along, a piece of metal suddenly fell off and onto her tire. A screw had come off of her inside wheel fender piece! It must have been all that bumping around on the ruts that shook the screw loose. 

And amazingly, the Portuguese men went to work. As it turned out, Pedro is a physical therapist (also known as a physiotherapist in Europe). He was an expert in wheelchair maintenance! What were the odds?

Pedro Fixes the Screw on Inside Wheel FenderPedro Fixes the Screw on Inside Wheel Fender

Then to add to the miracle, the wheelchair piece broke right outside this man's house, below, an eccentric artist who had lots of screws, nuts and bolts to choose from!

Artist on the Left, Finds the Right ScrewArtist on the Left, Finds the Right Screw

Literally, within a few minutes the wheelchair was fixed! Disaster averted! Amazingly, the Camino provided, two-fold!

We carried on, and soon stumbled upon another granite waymark, at 208 kilometers to Santiago.

208 Kilometers to Santiago on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese Way208 Kilometers to Santiago

We all stuck together as a team full of purpose! I was so grateful for all the men that we had collected to help Magdalena on her pilgrimage. I was not strong enough to do any wheelchair pushing on anything but totally level terrain. It was enough for me just to walk my own posterior along lugging my backpack! 

The Way Continues Through Rural LandsThe Way Continues Through Rural Lands
Bicycles Share the Rua Caminho de Santiago on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayBicycles Share the Rua Caminho de Santiago

After 3.0 full kilometers on the Rua Caminho de Santiago, it ends as the Way turns left onto the Rua de Ferrado after approximately 17.7 kilometers

The Lovely, High-Walled Rua de Ferrado on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayThe Lovely, High-Walled Rua de Ferrado

After 250 meters, the Way turns right onto the Rua do Quintão, then another 1/2 kilometer, a left turn, onto farmer's lanes that join the pavement in about another 1/2 kilometer to walk into the next town of Pedra Furada. 

Entering the Town of Pedra Furada on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayEntering the Town of Pedra Furada

After a few meters into town, the Camino turns right at a T-intersection, before entering the open countryside one again. Here is Magdalena free wheeling through the lovely Pedra Furada countryside.

Wheeling Through Pedra Furada CountrysideEasy Wheeling on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese Way

And then within 400 hundred meters, the Camino turns to the left to once again join the familiar EN306 in Pedra Furada. A few meters onward, at about 19.4 kilometers for the day, you walk by the church, the Igreja Paroquial de Santa Leocádia de Pedra Furada.

Here, by the church, is where you can find outside, to the north by the wall, a large stone with a hole in it. If you expand the photo below you can see the stone with the hole, to the left of the entrance to the church. 

You can also note the water fountain by the archway, if you need a fill up. 

Igreja Paroquial de Santa Leocádia de Pedra FuradaThe Igreja Paroquial de Santa Leocádia de Pedra Furada

While I have no no information as to the actual origin or purpose of this stone, as the legend goes, St. Leocádia was buried alive, and she managed to survive by poking her head through this stone, perhaps the lid on her coffin, creating this hole! The name of the town, "pedra furada" means "stone with a hole." Make sure you stop in to see this stone! Click here for more information. 

Within a few more steps in Pedra Furada, we came upon a nice information board by the cross at an intersection, showing that the nearest albergue in Barcelinhos was 9.0 kilometers ahead. Yeah! One of the closest albergues was our group's planned destination for the day, the Albergue Amigos da Montanha

I thought this was a perfect time and place for a snack break, 2/3rds into the day and about 19.6 kilometers into our journey. I took off my boots and aired out my feet, while munching on my food as others conferred with the map to sort out our location. 

Rest Stop at the Cross and Information Board in Pedra Furada on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayRest Stop at the Cross and Information Board in Pedra Furada
Pedro, Magdalena and Magnus conferring with the map in Pedra Furada on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayPedro, Magdalena and Magnus Conferring On Our Location

Just a few steps past this information area is the brand-new Albergue de Peregrinos, O Palhuço, a donativo with 24 beds. And just beyond the albergue is the Casa da Maria, another accommodation choice, and several cafes.

For almost 2.0 kilometers, we merrily scooted along the EN306 from Pedra Furada. Magdalena was in her glory, wheeling along. For the rest of us, not so much! But it was pleasant enough and there were sidewalks for the foot folks to stay safe. Matt preferred to hang with Magdalena on the road to the left, to give the cars a bigger line-of-sight. 

Matt and Magdalena on the EN306Matt and Magdalena on the EN306
Magnus and Rich Continuing on the EN306Magnus and Rich Continuing on the EN306

We also passed the fountain and chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guia. This would be a lovely pit stop as well at approximately 21.3 kilometers. 

Fonte e Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guiaon on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayFonte e Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guia

And here is where we turn left, off the EN306 to begin the final climb of the day, on the Way before Barcelinhos. There is a grocery store to the right, just beyond the turn, if you want to collect food for your dinner (refer to Google map above). 

Turn Off EN306 Here on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayTurn Off EN306 Here on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese Way

A nice lane through the forest for about 1/2 kilometer greeted us, then let us out on cobblestone to touch down briefly once again on the EN306 only to leave it for the remainder of day sixteen. 

Forest Path Towards PereiraForest Path Towards Pereira

We turned left onto the Rua Dos Cruzeiros (Two Crosses Street), having reached the high point of the day, and soon were flying down cobblestone toward Pereira, below.

Toward Pereira on Cobblestone on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayToward Pereira on Cobblestone

Here is one of the crosses in Pereira, that we came to within 3/4 kilometer of leaving the EN306. You can see a sign just beyond it for the Café San Salvador. 

Cross in Pereira and Café do Cruzeiro on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayCross in Pereira and Café do Cruzeiro

At the cross, we kept straight on, picking up the EM555 that we would take us most of the way from here into Barcelinhos. 

Walking on the Quiet M555 on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayWalking on the Quiet EM555

The EM555 meanders around through small towns for 1.3 km and crosses under the A11 here at 24.4 kilometers total. At this juncture we were only a bit more than 4.0 km from Barcelinhos and our destination. 

Crossing Under the A11 on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayCrossing Under the A11

The Camino continues its cruise downhill toward the Cádavo River, shown below, after the highway crossing. 

Continuing Downhill Toward BarcelosContinuing Downhill Toward Barcelos

After about exactly one kilometer and after entering the next town of Carvalhal, the central route of the Camino Portugués passes by the large town cemetery and turns left directly across from the town church.

You take the very first right almost immediately onto a narrow cobblestone street that continues to wind around for the next 1.7 kilometers and conveniently avoids entrance into Barcelos on busier streets.

The Camino Toward Santa Cruz on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayThe Camino Toward Santa Cruz

Along the way the Camino stays straight on at this little chapel in the village of Santa Cruz.

The Chapel in Santa CruiseThe Chapel in Santa Cruz

After the 1.7 kilometers on these quaint cobblestone roads, you  come to a T-intersection with a paved road, where you will turn right, and then walk straight on through a roundabout. Just after the roundabout is a Renault car dealership, at 27.3 kilometers total, and an intersection with the N103 is just beyond it. Walk past the dealership and pick up a lane that takes you around and under the N103 for the final downhill approach on the N205 into Barcelinhos.

Along the N205, in a few meters is the Casa das Pombas (we’ve stayed here and it is a great value, but basic, and the owner is very helpful and friendly!) and the Diora Hostel, with dormitory beds, your first choices as you enter Barcelinhos.

Here is the N205,where it joins the EN306 and turns left. 

Turn Left Toward Barcelos on the EN306Turn Left Toward Barcelos on the EN306

Once on the EN306, below, you are in the heart of Barcelinhos and the Cádavo River is just ahead at the bottom of the hill. 

Down the Hill to the Cádavo River on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayDown the Hill to the Cádavo River

However, we did not cross the river to Barcelos, but ended our Camino here, at the sign for the Amigos da Montanha Albergue at 28.5 kilometers total. The main entrance to the albergue is not on the EN306. You have to find your way back up the hill, to the left and around the back for the official entrance on the Largo Penedos. The Hospitalera was looking out for pilgrims on the main street and she directed us around to the back. Here is the actual entrance to the albergue. 

Albergue Amigos da Montanha on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayAlbergue Amigos da Montanha

The albergue is quite new and lovely with a well-equipped kitchen. It has only 16 places in one large room, and it was almost full when we were there at the end of April. 

Below is the view of Barcelos and the historic area from the upper deck in the Albergue Amigos da Montanha. 

View of Barcelos from the Albergue on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayView of Barcelos from the Albergue

My only complaint was that the albergue did not supply blankets, and despite my long underwear and fleece jacket, my sleep sack was not sufficient to keep me warm. It was very reasonably priced, so I couldn't complain too loudly. I am currently re-thinking my sleep sack idea anyway and am looking at an ultralight sleeping bag so I won't need to depend on available blankets in the future. Their usual state is not always that clean anyway!

I was also surprised by the beds which had vinyl covers on them, and no disposable sheet provided. This was OK with me, as I thought they could easily be wiped down and bed bugs would not like them. However the pillows provided had no disposable cases and I did not know how often the covers on them were cleaned. I tried to keep my sleep sack's pillow pocket over it, without much success. This also led to a rather restless night. 

To top off our evening, just across from the albergue was this restaurant, the O Cantinho do Peregrino. The owner is very obliging to cook an early dinner for starving peregrinos, for 10 Euros, including a beverage (wine of course)!

O Cantinho de Peregrino Restaurant in BarcelinhosO Cantinho de Peregrino Restaurant

We were able to eat an early enough dinner that we could then tour the town of Barcelos in the evening before sunset.

There are two more choices of accommodations in Barcelinhos, the Top'Otel, steps before the medieval bridge into Barcelos and the Residência - Albergue Senhor do Galo on the road to the left just before the bridge.

If you plan to stay across the river in Barcelos, there are three dormitory accommodations, the donativo Albergue Cidade de Barcelos, the private In Barcelos Hostel & Guest House and the Quartos no Apartamento da Rosa, farther north and east. Your choice of hotels include the Hotel Bagoeira, the Alojamento Local Arantes, the Art'otel Barcelos, the Residencial Kuarenta & Um, the Flag Hotel Barcelos,  and the Hotel Dom Nuno. All of these accommodations are in the center of town with easy access to all the sights. 

Here are just a few of the many sights that you can see in this lovely town!

Crossing the Cádavo River on the 14th Century Medieval Bridge into Barcelos, connecting it with Barcelinhos to the southCrossing the Cádavo River on the 14th Century Medieval Bridge into Barcelos

Day seventeen's Camino crosses the bridge and up the street toward the church in the center of town. Here is Magnus pushing Magdalena up the hill. 

Igreja Matriz de Barcelos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayIgreja Matriz de Barcelos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese Way

I officially ended the kilometer reading for this day, at the Barcelos town church, for a total of 28.8, since many of you will not end your day in Barcelinhos like we did!

We stopped to have a look at the church. The altar to Fátima in the Igreja Matriz de Barcelos is quite lovely and engaging. You can see the shepherd children at her feet. The church is open all days from 10:00 - 12:00 and 15:00 - 19:30.

Fátima Altar in the Igreja Matriz de Barcelos, PortugalFátima Altar in the Igreja Matriz de Barcelos

In the first photo below, we are approaching the famous palace in Barcelos that overlooks the river on top of the hill. The palace is in ruins, but it is worth seeing just for the views, in the next two photos. 

Paço de Barcelos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayPaço de Barcelos
View from Barcelos Palace, overlooking the Cádavo River on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese CaminoView from Barcelos Palace
View from Barcelos Palace, of Barcelinho, overlooking the Cádavo River on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese CaminoView of Barcelinhos from Barcelos Palace

Here is the famous Cruzeiro do Senhor do Galo, or the Cross of the Lord of the Rooster. Click here to read the legend of this famous tale of Divine intervention by St James. Because of this legend, the rooster is the symbol of this town, and you will see him all over! Look closely at the cross below, left and you will see St. James holding up the hanging man by the feet. The legend is a fascinating one! Be sure to read about it. 

Cruzeiro do Senhor do Galo, and the famous rooster of BarcelosCruzeiro do Senhor do Galo
Famous Rooster of BarcelosFamous Rooster of Barcelos

And finally, on the north side of town, is the octagon-shaped Church of the Lord Bom Jesus da Cruz, and the lovely gardens below. 

Templo do Senhor Bom Jesus da Cruz in Barcelos, PortugalTemplo do Senhor Bom Jesus da Cruz
Jardim das Barrocas in Barcelos on day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese WayJardim das Barrocas

Reflections on Day Sixteen, Central Route of the Camino Portugués

Yes, it was a successful day as our Camino family continued to grow. Without the strength of the many men who came to aid us, we would not have been able to accomplish what we did, getting Magdalena 29 kilometers through mud, ruts and uphill cobblestone. 

Magdalena was determined to push her own wheelchair as much as possible, and I could see she was having a difficult time accepting help. She is such a fabulously independent and courageous young lady! Yet she was full of conflict, because the feelings which came with traveling together in a Camino group was infectious and she wanted to share her journey with us.

We were all truly having a great time together, laughing and processing each new challenge on the road, and just feeling the amazement regarding Magdalena and how she must be experiencing her Camino! 

Despite her condition which she has had since a small child, she accomplished so much on day sixteen of her Portuguese Camino on the Central Route. She could still walk a short way, as she would at times, while the guys carried her wheelchair through sections that were just too difficult to negotiate with her in it. 

The camaraderie of the shared adventure, shared discoveries and hardships and most importantly, the connectedness, that ensued, despite different backgrounds, politics and religious beliefs, were all part of the Camino community spirit that we shared. 

In the days ahead, Magdalena's totally independent spirit would merge with the Camino Spirit of accepting help when needed. It was a new lesson for her, despite her desires. Physically, her hands and legs would be her challenge, as her hands were the appendages to get blisters and her legs would get banged up by her chair as she used her legs as additional brakes. 

We were blessed to have gathered this group to help us, to help Magdalena and in sharing the difficulties it brought us together faster and stronger than it might have otherwise. Our shared Circle of Love was a fabulous way to experience our Camino. The pleasure of connecting with these strong, willing and giving young people was a special treat for us indeed!

Salutation

May your own day sixteen on the Central Route of the Portuguese Camino be filled with connectedness, and a mutual helping that completes your Circle of Love! May you be blessed when through helping others, you receive more than you give!



Downloadable Camino Portugués eBooks in PDF Format ~ Get Your Copy Today!  Don't carry a hard copy guide book to increase your pack weight. Use our digital guides on your next Camino instead. 

The Variante Espiritual is Brand-New, Hot off my writing desk!

The Lisbon to Porto eBook is now updated to include the brand new boardwalk route along the river on the first day out of Lisbon!


And the Journey Continues:

~ Lisbon to Porto

~ Porto to Santiago Via the Coastal Route and/or the Sendal Litoral

~ Porto to Santiago Via the Central Route



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Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!




Carbon Trekking Poles

Carbon fiber construction ( not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide  our poles in our pack from potential thievesbefore getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from!  ( See more of our gear recommendations! )




Gregory BackPack - My Favorite Brand

An ultralight backpack should serve you well for years, like my Gregory has - six Caminos in all! My 28L Women's pack gets a 5-star on Amazon (Ones for Guys too)!




Microfiber Towel Set

Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel! 




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