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Day Twenty-Three on the Camino Portugués
~ Pontevedra to Valga (Magariños), 31.06 Km (19.3 Miles) via the Central Route

Our day twenty-three on the Camino Portugués was filled with long stretches through the Spanish countryside, on a consistent-appearing terrain. It was not my favorite day, nor the most beautiful, but none-the-less we kept walking through the monotony. 

It appeared that I would be faithful to my promise of walking every step of the 700 km on the Portuguese Way, with only about 70 km left to go at the start of the day. 

"Indeed, this life is a test. It is a test of many things - of our convictions and priorities, our faith and our faithfulness, our patience and our resilience, and in the end, our ultimate desires." ~ Sheri L. Dew



Map and Stats of Day Twenty-Three on the Camino Portugués

Here is my Google map with my GPS tracks on it. You will notice that there are many more albergues, as you get closer to Santiago de Compostela, as indeed there are many more pilgrims. 

I also placed the places where we stayed and the cafés where we ate on the map. For a complete list of accommodations, click here

The map below is entirely interactive, so click away!

Interactive Google Map of Day Twenty-Three on the Camino Portugués

There is a slow gradual climb out of Pontevedra of 120 meters (400 ft) in the first 8 kilometers (5 miles) on the way to San Amaro, and then a final climb of 130 meters (440 feet) in the last 8 km (5 miles) out of Caldas de Reis on the way to the Valga Albergue. 

This leg can feel strenuous, especially with a climb at the end of a long day. We had plenty of food, rest stops and an interesting diversion, as you shall see. Plus our conditioning was now at a place where 30 km days no longer took us to our edge. Most likely Rich could have even gone farther, as did our friend Steve, from Britain, albeit inadvertently. 

Elevation Profile for Day Twenty-Three, Camino Portugués, Pontevedra to ValgaElevation Profile for Day Twenty-Three, Camino Portugués, Pontevedra to Valga

Photo-Rich Travelogue of Day Twenty-Three on the Camino Portugués

If you find yourself needing to walk directly through the town of Pontevedra, from the central plaza, the Plaza da Ferraría, just past the pilgrims church, there is an arrow on the southwest corner on the building, guiding you to walk down the Rúa dos Soportais. Walk only a few meters, then turn right at a fountain, see the Burger King straight ahead at the other end of the plaza. Turn left at the Burger King, follow the yellow arrows to find the Rúa Real.

The Rúa Real is a straight shot north to the Lérez River and the bridge, the Ponte do Burgo, where you cross over. Here is where we met Steve to start our day twenty-three on the Camino Portugués. We left the Casa Maruja in the early morning, without breakfast and no food in our packs.

I placed the route through town on my Google map above for your reference. It can be tricky to get through larger towns. Just zoom into Pontevedra to see it. 

Rich and Steve at Ponte do Burgo, Pontevedra on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésRich and Steve at Ponte do Burgo

Cross the river and walk through a roundabout staying straight. Take your first left onto the Rúa da Santiña, a nice quiet side road through the north side of Pontevedra. Walk on the Rúa da Santiña for 0.9 kilometer as the road walks through increasingly more rural areas.

This street becomes the Rúa da Gándara as you leave the urban area altogether to join lovely vineyards. Here is Rich and Steve, who hooked up with another pilgrim, Marta, a physical therapist from Poland. 

Camino Street Waymark on the Rúa da Gándara in Pontevedra, Spain on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCamino Street Waymark on the Rúa da Gándara

The three were moving well, and I was content to fall behind, taking photos and voice journaling. 

Here is a quaint arbor over a driveway to a home.

Here is a quaint arbor over a driveway to a home along the Rúa da Gándara on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésQuaint Grape Arbor Along the Rúa da Gándara

In a a bit over 1/2 kilometer, walk by a nature area, with a boardwalk system heading west. Continue straight onward through this nature preserve area, the "Refuxio de Fauna," a wildlife refuge in Gallego, the language of Galicia.

After another 0.23 kilometer Walk by a nice fountain and picnic area under a large willow tree in this stretch. This is a wonderful area in which to walk. The best part of day twenty-three on the Camino Portugués.

Thus begins the Via Romana XIX, or the Roman Road. Click on the link to learn more about this ancient road system in Galicia. You will see these markers along this route. The Camino Portuguese road now becomes a nice dirt road. 

Via Romana XIX Waymark on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésVia Romana XIX Waymark

By this time you may have noticed the railroad track on a high bank off to your right. You will follow this for awhile. After a total 1.5 km on the Rúa da Gándara you come to an intersection, with a bridge on your left, across the Rio da Gándara. You will see this sign, for the Variante Espiritual that turns left here.

Turn Here for the Variante Espiritual on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésTurn Here for the Variante Espiritual

The Central Route turns right on the paved road, walks through the underpass of the railroad bridge and takes you up the hill, staying left to join the Aldea a Ferreira in the town of Pontecabras. You are about three kilometers into your day twenty-three on the Camino Portugués and it has been a wonderful walk so far. 

After the small town, continue to walk in the rural areas, following the railroad tracks, now on your left, until the church on the hill catches your eye. This is the Iglesia Santa Maria Alba. For me, in the early morning light, the silhouette that was created made the vision even more special for me. 

Iglesia Santa Maria Alba Silhouette on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésContemplating the Iglesia Santa Maria Alba Silhouette

Bend around the Iglesia Santa Maria Alba, built in the 12th century and re-built in 1595. At the top of the hill is a unique column to Santiago. Here I am, stopping and giving thanks for my health, my pilgrimage and all of life's good things bestowed upon me. I was so far succeeding on my priority to complete this pilgrimage at this juncture in my life. 

Elle by St. James Pillar at the Iglesia Santa Maria Alba on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésElle by St. James Pillar at the Iglesia Santa Maria Alba

Shortly after the cruceiro, the road bends to the left. Walking on for a total of 1.0 kilometer, the Way comes to a T-intersection. Turn left here onto the PO-225 and cross under the railroad tracks.

There is absolutely no shoulder on the PO-225 but pilgrims have worn a path as you can see in the photo below.

Pilgrim's Path Along the PO-225 on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésPilgrim's Path Along the PO-225

Pass by this lovely little chapel in the next town of San Caetaño for which I didn't get its name.

Capela in San Caetaño on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCapela in San Caetaño

Continue on the PO-225 for only about 1/2 kilometer through the town of San Caetaño. We did not see any cafés here, but we were looking! We had had no breakfast and at about 5 km into our day twenty-three on the Camino Portugués, we were getting quite hungry!

Turn right at the Avigal factory, staying left at their gate. Come to a Y in a few meters, staying left again. Another left again, in another several hundred meters, staying north and following the arrows on quiet roads that parallel the train tracks. There are many arrows to guide you.

Quiet Paved Road After San Caetaño on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésQuiet Paved Road After San Caetaño

After walking through the above forested area, and then by a cluster of buildings, in the town of O Castrado, the road turns to dirt.

Dirt Lane After O Castrado on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésDirt Lane After O Castrado

You may or may not be able to hear the trains as you walk through this long, secluded section. The tracks are up on the high bank to the right in the photo below.

We luckily missed the trains on our sojourn through this peaceful section. We didn't really didn't see any pilgrims here either. 

The road follows the river, the Rîo da Gándara and eventually crosses it. 

Forest Path by the Railroad Tracks on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésForest Path by the Railroad Tracks
Crossing the Rîo da Gándara on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCrossing the Rîo da Gándara

After a bit more than 3 km on this respite from the urban areas, cross the railroad tracks.

Cross the Railroad Tracks on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCross the Railroad Tracks

Walk up the hill on the other side of the tracks, and in a few meters turn left on a narrow paved road which walks you into the town of  San Amaro. In about 1/2 kilometer you come to a T-intersection with the PO-224.

Turn right on the PO-224 and within meters, see the lovely, A Pousada do Peregrino! Finally a place for breakfast. The café had a delightful and innovative menu and I would strongly recommend it

Café Bar A Pousada do Peregrino on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCafé Bar A Pousada do Peregrino

Steve and Marta had beaten Rich and I to this café when Marta kicked it into high gear a ways back. Steve was challenging himself to keep up with her, but Rich stayed back to be with me. Awwww!

Within a few minutes of our arrival at the café, Steve and Marta took off again. I could feel Rich's angst, but I was not going to eat and rush off. I had no desire to keep up with a cute physical therapist half my age, as the gentlemen seemed to want to do!

After our breakfast, back on the Camino, within 50 meters, it turns left at the next restaurant, the Meson Don Pulpo. There were pilgrims here as well.

We turned onto the EP-0508. There was a nice picinic area and a fountain, shortly after town on the right. 

We soon passed the 54 km pillar on day twenty-three of the Portuguese Camino. The goal was coming into closer focus. 

54 Km to Santiago on day twenty-three, Camino Portugués54 Km to Santiago
Cruceiro in Barros on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCruceiro in Barros

3/4 kilometer down the road, you come to a crossroads and the cruceiro above. Continue on straight. 

Walk for a total of 1.7 km on the EP-0508. This is a lovely jaunt on a nice narrow paved road. 

Come to a T-intersection, turn left on the EP-0506 and in only a few meters, take an immediate right onto another dirt agricultural road called the Rúa das Baladas. After only 600 meters come to another T-intersection and turn right onto the Rúa Areal at this lovely waymark, below, showing us that we have only 52 km left to Santiago! Notice the Via Romana XIX waymarks also continue. 

Turn Right onto the Rúa Areal at 52 Km Waymark on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésTurn Right onto the Rúa Areal at 52 Km Waymark

This is God's country, with fruits-on-the-vine everywhere. I never thought I would grow tired of vineyards, but I was becoming weary of them and the day's walk. 

Continue on the Rúa Areal toward Valbón. When you reach a T in Valbón, turn right to stay on the Rúa Areal. There is a café here in town. 

Walking Through Vineyards on the Rúa Areal on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésWalking Through Vineyards on the Rúa Areal

In only a few meters, you see the Cruceiro de Amonisa. Here is also a Y intersection, and you stay to the left.

Cruceiro de Amonisa in Valbón on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCruceiro de Amonisa in Valbón

In a few meters, turn hard left and meander through the countryside on a quiet paved road, that eventually turns to dirt, following the many waymarks and arrows along the way

Agricultural Road in Spanish Wine Country on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésAgricultural Road in Spanish Wine Country

Stay on the dirt road come to a cluster of trees and cross the stream, the Rego do Areal on a quaint footbridge.

Cross the Rego do Areal on Footbridge on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCross the Rego do Areal on Footbridge, Day Twenty-Three, Camino Portugués

After a total of 2 km from the Cruceiro de Amonisa in Valbón, the pilgrimage traveler reaches the intersection of the EP-9047, the next substantial highway.

Cross over the EP-9047 to a paved road. Meander again, for another 2 km as the Way engages your senses in the wide open agricultural spaces and the many vineyards. 

I kept pushing onward through the monotony. 

Open Country Road on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésOpen Country Road

The pilgrimage traveler drops out onto the N-550 at this point and turns left onto the highway. There is a well-worn pilgrim's path on the side of the highway, in addition to a nice wide shoulder to keep you safe. 

The highway sign says 40 km to Santiago, clearly the most direct route. Not for us though on our day twenty-three of the Camino Portugués!

Join the N-550 Highway and Turn Left on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésJoin the N-550 Highway and Turn Left on Day Twenty, Camino Portugués

The walk along the highway is only 300 meters, before the Way veers off to the left onto a farmer's lane. The Way makes another left at the next lane and takes you through this lovely grape arbor.

Elle on Tractor Lane Through Grape Arbor on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésElle on Tractor Lane Through Grape Arbor

The diversion from the N-550 is a short 1/2 km and the nice tractor lane through the vineyards turns eastward to join the highway. 

Barely walk 100 meters on the N-550 and the Camino veers off to the left on yet another nice tractor lane and walks you through the town of Briallos. This lane brings you to the EP-8102, where if you were to turn left, the municipal albergue of Briallos is a few hundred meters away. 

The Camino walks straight on here on day twenty-three of the Camino Portugués. You can catch glimpses of the highway to the East and after walking almost a kilometer, join the N-550 once again.

Walk only 200 meters, and again veer off to the left onto nice dirt lanes. These tractor lanes parallel the N-550 to the west, as they travel northward toward the next town of Tívo.

Pass by the Capela de Santa Lucía along the way. Pause a moment for gratitude for faithfulness and resilience! 

Capela de Santa Lucía on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCapela de Santa Lucía

Continue to walk on this nice dirt road towards Tívo. 

After 1.2 km pick up a side, paved road, to the left, the Rúa Tívo. This road alternates between dirt and pavement. 

The Road Toward Tívo on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésThe Road Toward Tívo

In another one km, walk into the center of Tívo, through town and past the attractive albergue, the Albergue Turístico Catro Canos.

Fountain by the Albergue Turístico Catro Canos on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésFountain by the Albergue Turístico Catro Canos

Just by the albergue is this lovely cruceiro, with the amazing vineyards extending beyond.

Cruceiro by the Fountain on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCruceiro by the Fountain

Continue walking north on the narrow paved road toward Caldas de Reis.

Camino Toward Caldas de Reis on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCamino Toward Caldas de Reis

Avoid the N-550 for another 1.5 km after Tívo, walking on side roads and lanes, paralleling the highway until the Igrexa de Santa María de Caldas de Reis where you join the highway once again to walk into Caldas de Reis.

Igrexa de Santa María de Caldas de Reis on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésIgrexa de Santa María de Caldas de Reis

Walk the short 300 meters from the church, across the bridge over the Río Umia and into town. 

Bridge over the Río Umia in Caldas de Reis on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésBridge over the Río Umia in Caldas de Reis

Here is Rich and Steve at the Cafetería Termas, just across the river, by the bridge to the left. It was a lovely spot for a break at about 22 km into the day. 

Rich and Steve at the Cafetería Termas on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésRich and Steve at the Cafetería Termas

After our break, I had some errands to do in town, so instead of taking the left hand turn right after the bridge, and following the Rúa Real toward the Roman bridge, you can see on my Google map that I walked into the center commercial street in town, then rejoined the Camino at the bridge.  Steve went on ahead. 

It is a short 350 meters from the bridge on the N-550 to the antique Roman bridge, the Puente Romano. This historic bridge takes the pilgrimage traveler across the Río Bermaña and was originially built in the Roman times with the cross added in medieval times.

Puente Romano over the Río Bermaña in Caldas de Reis on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésPuente Romano over the Río Bermaña

You can also see the albergue in the photo above, right behind the bridge. You reach the albergue just before the bridge, on the southwest side. This would be an historic place to stay, however, we wanted to go farther on our day twenty-three on the Camino Portugués.

If your destination is Caldas de Reis, click on the link for more options for accommodation. 

On the other side of the bridge is an historic fountain the Puente Romano. 

Old Fountain after the Puente Romano in Caldas de Reis on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésOld Fountain after the Puente Romano in Caldas de Reis

After crossing the Roman bridge, the street becomes the Rúa San Roque. Walk a short 200 meters and join the N-550 once again. Walk another 200 meters and turn right off the highway before it climbs the hill and onto the continuing Rúa San Roque. The road quickly becomes a dirt one. 

Thus we begin another lovely trail system of mostly wide dirt lanes. In another 1/2 km, leave the Rúa San Roque to walk straight north on a nice lane toward this overpass of the N-550. 

Walk Under N-550 Overpass on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésWalk Under N-550 Overpass

Turn right under the bridge onto a road that is paved for a short while, then becomes dirt again. 

From the N-550 intersection in Caldas de Reis, to the  N-550 intersection in O Cruceiro, it is 4.8 km of lovely countryside walking, following the Río Bermaña river valley. 

The Encounter With the Romanian Runner

Along this stretch, I had fallen into place, walking behind Rich, with my head down, trying to dig out another eight kilometers for the day. I was tired of the Camino and wanted the day to be over with!

All of a sudden, out of nowhere, I heard someone running up behind me. Before I could turn around, a young man was next to me, looking at me intently, and said, "Hi, I am Mihai from Romania. Who are you?' 

I was instantly taken aback with this intrusion. With Rich just a few steps ahead of me, I managed to quickly regain my composure at this harmless-looking man. I said, "I am Elle from the USA."

Mihai continued to walk alongside me, quiet closely, happily chatting away about his Camino thus far. He was giving me his Camino play-by-play. His English was near perfect. I am continually astounded by the English capabilities of educated Europeans. Puts me and my Tarzan Spanish to shame!

Mihai was running from Porto, putting in 60 km days! His plan was to make it to Santiago by the end of the day. Wow! Santiago was only about 40 km away at this juncture. 

He said he was very lonely because he would meet new pilgrims every day, since no one else was going as far as he in a day, and the cyclists would go even farther. 

Rich, slowed his pace and joined in on the conversation, with this delightful young man. 

Rich and Romanian Runner, MihaiRich and Romanian Runner, Mihai

Here is Rich and Mihai walking into the next town of O Cruceiro.

Rich and Mihai Walking into O Cruceiro on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésRich and Mihai Walking into O Cruceiro

Mihai walked along with us for the next four kilometers, just chatting and chatting. He was so lonely! He said it was OK for him to walk and rest for awhile, as he would still easily make it to Santiago today.

He chose to walk with us, he said, because we were walking faster than the others he had recently passed! Too hilarious! I did notice that when he joined us, that we had indeed picked up the pace. His energy was truly infectious and his fast jibber jabber, moved our legs almost as fast as he could talk! It made the remaining kilometers go by much quicker than otherwise. 

Continuing Onward on Day Twenty-Three of the Camino Portugués

We joined the N-550, and carefully crossing over to the other side, we looked left and went a short jog, turning onto the dirt road across the street. There is a bar a few meters farther to the left if you need a respite. 

We walked 200 meters, staying right and then turn right to follow the road to the church in the distance, the Iglesia de Santa Mariña in the town of O Campo. I could barely pause long enough to snap this photo. The three of us were moving!

Iglesia de Santa Mariña on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésIglesia de Santa Mariña

We walked north, past the church, across its parking lot and continued on the adjacent road as it bends northward. 

We meandered along country roads, now paved and paralleling the N-550 to the west, for another 1.4 kilometers until once again we met up with the N-550!

We walked through the small consecutive towns of Carracedo, As Cortiñnas and O Gurgullón and passed by more wonderful vineyards. 

Walking by Endless Vineyards on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésWalking by Endless Vineyards

We went left on the N-550 and then immediately right, to walk on a paved road, again paralleling the N-550, but now on the other side to the east. We walked briefly along this paved road and took the next left to join a dirt lane. Here is Rich walking on the path along the highway, with the town of Magariños, our destination, ahead. 

Walking Towards Magariños by the Highway on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésWalking Towards Magariños by the Highway

Here Rich took a photo of Mihai and me, on our final steps before the turn off to the Albergue in Valga. 

Elle and Mihai on the Road to Valga on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésElle and Mihai on the Road to Valga

We went along this stretch for not quite one-and-a-half kilometers, until we met the PO-220, where the dirt lane essentially is a frontage road, by the AP-9 for the last half of this section.

We walked up a short hill and met the PO-220, turned left and walked on the bridge across the AP-9. Immediately after the bridge, the Way turns right onto another well-marked frontage road along the AP-9. Not ideal, following the AP-9, but better than walking on the highway!

In about 1/3 km the dirt lane meets a paved road, and turns left and walks through a forest. In about 650 meters onward, the way turns right, or north on another path.

But then we saw the sign for the albergue in Valga at this juncture. Instead of turning north on the path, we stayed on the road.

We said our goodbyes to Mihai who was going on to Santiago, about another 38 km ahead. We wished him well! 

I was never so happy to find the turn for the albergue! I was exhausted, probably keeping a 6 km/hour pace for the last 4 kilometers! And to boot, it was the last 4 kilometers of the day, when I am usually running out of juice! 

I didn't know whether to thank or curse our friendly Romanian runner! He surely made our Camino more interesting!

In only a few meters after the turn to the albergue the road comes to the N-550. We turned right onto the highway, and crossed to the west side, very carefully!

Cross the N-550 Towards the Valga Albergue on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésCross the N-550 Towards the Valga Albergue

The Albergue de Peregrinos de Valga is only another 120 meters away, below.

Albergue de Peregrinos de Valga on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésAlbergue de Peregrinos de Valga

This is a brand-new albergue and has two floors of dormitories and wonderful large separate shower/bathrooms for men and women and a modern, fully-equipped kitchen. They even have a handicapped-accessible room! 

We got a chuckle out of the pilgrim statue! 

Pilgrim Statue by the Albergue on day twenty-three, Camino PortuguésPilgrim Statue by the Albergue

Just down the street from the albergue is the Bar Los Camioneros, or the Trucker's Bar. After cleaning up and doing our laundry, we went to it for a celebratory beer and snacks. They have a wonderful-looking menu, but since the kitchen was so nice at the albergue we decided to cook for a change.

As an added bonus, the bar also sells fresh meat, produce and groceries! A pilgrim's heaven! We bought enough food for dinner and breakfast the next day. 

Reflections on Day Twenty-Three, Camino Portugués

For me, this day was the least interesting of all the days thus far. I actually think I like walking through quaint towns better than long legs in the country. But I think it was more true that we were both growing tired of being on the Camino. We were just sick of the whole thing. 

We asked ourselves again, Why are we doing this? As I voice journaled on this day twenty-three on my Camino Portugués, I was still trying to "figure it all out on a who-cares day!"

When I asked Rich the question, we did keep coming back to the same answer; to have a reprieve from caregiving for Rich's Mom and to spend time together. This was a special and important time for both of us and we needed one another's company and support.

We lost our friend Steve, who missed the turn to the Albergue in Valga where we had planned to meet up. So we never did reconnect at the end of the day. He texted us that he had walked on to Padrón. And so it is. 

Who cares? Just keep on walking! 

Salutation

May your own day twenty-three on the Camino Portugués be full of conviction, faith, patience and resilience! May your ultimate desire be to finish your pilgrimage, however that looks for you! Ultreia! Almost there!





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And the Journey Continues:

Lisbon to Porto

Porto to Santiago Via the Coastal Route and/or the Sendal Litoral

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