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Day Seven on the Camino Portugués
~ Alvaiãzere to Alvorge, 23 Kilometers (14.3 Miles)
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Our day seven on the Camino Portugués was shorter than the others, as I developed a mysterious physical condition of my left ankle. Even the most beautiful countryside could not entice me to walk farther than Alvorge, a respectful distance, though not the full stage of 32 km to Rabaçal.
"Forget your perfect offeringThere is a crack in everything
That's how the Light gets in."
~ Leonard Cohen
If the wound is where the Light enters, then my day seven on the Camino Portugués and several more days after that should have been filled with Light! Yes, they were, despite the fact that my "wound" slowed me down, but did not stop me! With the help of a hefty dose of Ibuprofen, we set out for the day.
Day seven, though short, was to be a delightful and mostly rural walk through the deep Portuguese countryside.
Map and Stats of Day Seven on the Camino Portugués
Here is my map of my GPS tracks that I recorded on my app on my cellphone. I uploaded the tracks to a Google map, and here it is, below. It is fully interactive, so you are able to use it just like any other Google map.
I included on the map, the places where we stayed and where we ate, plus additional accommodations, cafés and supermarkets.
Here is the elevation profile of day seven. There is a climb of about 170 meters (550 feet) out of Alvaiãzere, in the first 4 km, which took us only about an hour, to the area called Vendas. If you pinch open the map you can see all the stats for the day.
The low point is essentially the center of the town, Ansião, 13 kilometers into the day. The rest of the day to Alvorge is essentially flat.
Photo-Rich Travelogue of Day Seven on the Camino Portugués
We started our day bright and early, the typical 7 a.m., just at sunrise. It was a misty and cool day as we set off into the countryside. We were happy for the cooler weather for the small climb right at the beginning.
Our Australian friends decided to wait for the restaurant at the Residencial O Bras to open at 0:730 for breakfast, so we walked on by ourselves. We were going to eat along the way, and hopefully run into a bakery to buy some bread to complement our meat and cheese. The O Bras is the only place open for breakfast, and it is now open at 7:00 a.m. Check first if you want to eat here.
Our hotel was just a few steps from the Way, and a few meters onward, so was the albergue, the Albergaria Pinheiros (+351 915 440 196), below. In addition to the outer adornment with murals, the interior of this place is decorated with all things Camino, yellow arrows and paintings along the Way.
Albergaria Pinheiros, AlvaiãrzereAs we were walking past the albergue, we spied a bakery truck delivering bread! We approached the baker and asked him if we could buy some bread. As Rich was fishing into his pocket for some change, the gentleman just waved his hand and gave us the bread! We felt so grateful and supported on our Camino! What a lovely country!
And indeed the sunrise was just as lovely! On the north side of town, from the main street, walk about 300 meters, until the Camino bears right onto the Rua da Quintinha. As we walked up this street, the rosy mist was already lifting as we looked back over the town of Alvaiãrzere. My heart was filled with gratitude, as it most often is at the dawn of a new day.
After not quite one-half kilometer, the Way turns left onto the CM1104. The climb from Alvaiázere was pleasant on the quiet pavement of this road.
First Climb from Alvaiázere to LaranjeirasAfter about 1.6 kilometers, from the town church in Alvaiázere, you will enter the small town of Laranjeiras, as signposted in the photo below.
The Way continues on the CM1104 and its steep banks are graced with heather as you continue your gentle climb towards Macas de Caminho.
Heather Graces the Steep BanksLeave the CM1104 here and turn left - yes, up the hill! This turn is after about 2.8 kilometers into the day.
Turn Left Up the HillWalk onward a few hundred meters before the T-intersection appears, below, and you go to the left, as you follow the Camino waymarks.
Turn Left at the T-IntersectionAfter the T intersection, about 200 meters later, the Way turns to the right and onto much smaller, quieter paved roads, full of charm. This area/town is called "Vendas."
And just beyond this old building above is a charming fountain.
Charming Fountain in VendasAbout 350 meters after the fountain in Vendas, once you have left the buildings behind and just before a crossroads is essentially the top ("alto") of the morning climb, only about 4 kilometers into the day.
Walk straight through at the crossroads, and into a lovely eucalyptus forest, below. It's mostly all downhill from here, into Ansião.
Eucalyptus Forest after the "Alto"After about 200 kilometers, the Way joins the CM1063 at a T-intersection, turning right. Within a few more meters, arrive at this shrine, below. This tiny little thing is actually called the Capela de Alminhas. Here is another pilgrim friend stopping and posing for me here!
It was still misty and cool, and the young grapevines along the Way here were that lovely spring-green color.
Onwards, down the hill...
We soon leave the narrow, paved road to turn right onto the gravel road, below, towards Venda do Negro after approximately 5.5 kilometers total.
Turn Right Here off CM1063 Onto Gravel Lane
Arrive in Venda do Negro and the town church, the Capela de Nossa Senhora do Pranto greets you first, below, after approximately 6.45 kilometers into the day.
Capela de Nossa Senhora do PrantoAnd by the church is a crossroads, where you will continue straight onward. You can see the investments in the new signage along the way.
Straight Onward in Venda do Negro at New SignageVenda do Negro is a breath of a town. Take a deep breath and you are through it! Yet I was astonished to see lovely granite setts (aka cobblestone) through the entire small town. The Portuguese do love their paved granite roads!
Walking Thru Venda do Negro on Day Seven of the Camino PortuguésAfter walking through Venda do Negro, the Way turns left onto a paved road for a few meters, then turns right onto an improved dirt lane that in less than one kilometer becomes a wonderful path, pictured below, after about 7.6 kilometers. You are essentially continuing straight north, after Venda do Negro.
400 meters later, the ongoing, walled path, pictured below, comes to the pavement again, where a right turn takes you less than 200 more meters, to yet another lovely, and walled path off to the left, pictured next. The path becomes a bit overgrown in places.
The Walled Path Continues
Turn Left, Leaving Pavement Once AgainThe Way here on day seven of the Camino Portugués was so serene through this countryside. I just loved it! We walked on, relishing our peaceful surroundings, so different from the whirlwind we had left behind in the States. It was the perfect antidote to all that life had brought us in the previous months, when Rich's mother suffered a major stroke, turning all of our lives upside down. We felt lucky to be here, lucky to have been able to get away.
The peaceful farmer's lane continues a bit more than one kilometer, passing another small shrine, toward the next small hamlet of Casal Soeiro. After about 9.25 kilometers total, take a sharp right turn, then an almost immediate left at a T-intersection in Casal Soeiro, to join the pavement. A few meters later, in town, turn left and after 80 meters arrive at the town chapel, the Capela de San Francisco de Casal Soeiro, built in 1747.
Capela de San Francisco de Casal SoeiroTurn left after the chapel and onto the Rua D’Além. This street will peter out and become a wide dirt lane.
The first sign of the big town, Ansião, was the signpost below, which we saw about 1/3 kilometer after leaving Casal Soeiro.
This Way to AnsiãoAfter approximately 10.2 kilometers, a right turn at a T-intersection, eventually brings you back to the pavement at another cluster of buildings, after about 600 more meters, as the Camino walks you closer to Ansião, below.
Back onto the Pavement Nearer to AnsiãoThe pavement leads you through Empeados, and to a T-intersection, where you will turn left at this shrine, below. We took a break here by the shrine.
Pass Shrine in EmpeadosWe were taking our time today, as I knew I would most likely be unable to go the full 32 km stage to Rabaçal, because of my sore left ankle. Our plan was to stay at the albergue in Alvorge after 23 km, depending on how my ankle responded to the day's walk.
At this morning's lunch break, I noticed that what had been a sore ankle had become a swollen ankle and I had no idea why. Oh my!
I was concerned about having a stress fracture of some nature, and I did not want to ruin my entire Camino. I hoped I could make it to Alvorge! I was not in much pain, just the mild swelling right around the ankle bones and a bit of soreness. I propped my foot up while I ate lunch and hoped for the best.
I thought I would try shortened days, hoping the injury was only to the soft tissue. I wracked my brain to try to figure out how I may have had an actual injury event that could have caused this swelling.
I recalled falling on my backpack, landing with legs up like a turtle, when I had climbed the steep hill on day five. Could I have possibly twisted my left ankle and not known it? I did not know.
We finished our break and walked 150 meters more where we came to a T-intersection with the busy Rua Jerónimo Soares Barbosa. Here we turned left, to take a footpath to the left of this small roadside chapel. We had logged 11.3 kilometers by this point.
The path by the chapel leads you into the woods once again and on a footpath that appears to be another brief section of ancient road, but in poor condition. Continue for about 1/3 kilometer on this path and then turn right onto this gravel lane, below. At the street ahead in the photo, you turn left onto the paved Rua dos Valinhos and walk into Ansião.
Only a few steps along the Rua dos Valinhos and you will turn right, and follow the waymarks leading you back onto the Rua Jerónimo Soares Barbosa into the center of town.
Walking on the Rua Oliveira Salazar toward Ansião Town CenterAs the Camino walks through town, there are cafés and mini-markets to fill your belly and fill your pack with food, all right along the route! There are many places to stay the night if your day needs to end here. Consult the map above to see their exact locations.
The Camino walks right by the Ansiturismo Alojamento & Spa on the southside of town. There is no albergue in Ansião, but the family run hotels include the Adega Típica de Ansião, and the Residencial Solar Da Rainha (+351 236 676 204) to the north side of town and right along the Camino.
As we reached the town center's square, at around 12.8 kilometers into the day and shown below, who did we run into, but our Aussie mates! They had stopped for café con leite at the pastry shop right on the square.
We joined them at the Pastelaria Diogo on the square, sitting at an outdoor table for these delightful treats!
Treats at the Pastelaria DiogoAgain, at this break, I took off my boots, propped up my left ankle and massaged the heck out of it! So far, it looked like I would make it another 10 km to Alvorge.
After our break we said goodbye to our Aussie friends, as they were going through to Rabaçal on their day seven of the Camino Portugués. They were planning a rest day in Coimbra, the next destination after Rabaçal, so we hoped we would catch up to them in two days. We synchronized our phones with WhatsApp so we could stay in touch over wifi.
After continuing to walk straight north on the N348 through Ansião, drop to the river Nabão, which ends your long descent for the day. Cross the river on a footbridge to the left side of the road. Pass a wee chapel on the other side of the river, and next you will walk uphill on the other side.
About 650 meters after the bridge, and after crossing under the highway, IC8, the N348 bends to the left as shown in the photo, below.
Turn Left in Ansião off N348, HereAfter approximately 14 kilometers, turn right onto the Rua do Estádio. Pass by the large stadium and at the next crossroads, the Way narrows and walks you by this distinct yellow house, below, where it once again turns into a nice forest lane.
Paved Road Ends at Bright Yellow HouseThe lane comes out at the CM1090, crosses it and walks on the pavement towards Bate Água.
Cross CM1090 to Paved Road150 meters later, the Way stays left, picking up a lane that in another 150 meters or so brings you to another paved road where you stay right. Round a bend and the Camino then veers off to the left and back onto another forest path, below, for about 170 meters, then continuing on a country gravel road for about another 270 meters.
Turn Left on Another Forest PathAfter 15.8 kilometers, the Camino comes to a T-intersection and takes a left turn onto an improved gravel road as it climbs towards Netos. Below is the signpost along the gravel lane for Netos, the next town.
Signpost to Netos on Gravel RoadThe gravel turns to pavement as you walk through town, reaching a stop sign at a T-intersection with the Rua da Liberdade, in the center of town after approximately 16.7 kilometers.
After turning right onto the Rua da Liberdade in Netos, walking through the small town, in another four hundred meters or so, this white house is the next turning point to the left.
The lane takes you back into the woods...
Little ups and downs on lanes through the countryside...
Little Ups and Downs on Day Seven, Camino PortuguésAnd onwards toward Casais da Granja...
Gravel Lane Towards Casais da GranjaAfter meandering just about two kilometers on the forest lanes, following the waymarks, the Camino gives way to the pavement entering the next town of Venda do Brasil and turns left onto the EM526 at this gas station, below left, after 19 kilometers total. There is also a café in the gas station, if you need to fuel up your belly!
Gas Station, in Venda BrasilThe Camino takes the first right turn after the gas station, off the EM526 and onto a cobblestone lane, towards the next town of Casais da Granja. A few steps later, it takes a right at a Y-intersection and onto a two-track lane, below.
200 meters later, when the road ends at a T-intersection, turn to the right, coming to another T-intersection 100 meters later. A right here, followed by an immediate left, where you will pass a large solar farm, then a lane leads you back into the lovely forest, another enchanted one, shown below.
I just loved these large, gnarled trees that we passed by! With my swollen left ankle, I could have just sat under them and meditated away the rest of the day! But I was doing well, and enjoying the "Light" the day was bringing me around every corner.
Shortly after the enchanted forest, the Camino joins the N348 after about 20.2 kilometers, walks on it for a hundred meters, then turns left onto a single track path, below.
Leave N348 for Path AheadThe single track continues along these charming walls lined with vineyards and olive trees.
After only 150 meters we turn right onto pavement towards Junqueira, but not for long.
Short Walk on Quiet Pavement Towards JunqueiraIn less than 400 meters, a left turn puts us back onto a gravel road that takes a final climb toward our destination, Alvorge.
Final Climb on Gravel Lane Toward AlvorgeAfter about 850 meters, the gravel road comes to a T-intersection where we turned right onto another lane at 21.9 kilometers. There is a nice information board at the turn.
Turn Right at T-Intersection at End of This Gravel RoadThis lane brings you into Alvorge and the signpost, below, welcomed us with what felt like open arms. I had made it, swollen ankle and all! And I was none too worse for the wear.
As you enter town at the top of the hill, on the left is the private 10-bed Albergue O Lagareiro, which you can see in the photo, above, which also has one private room and a restaurant with only so-so food. We have stayed here and it is clean and comfortable, has bunk beds with individual cubbies and curtains. The proprietor is friendly, a little scatter brained, but eventually will meet all your needs.
Just beyond the Albergue O Lagareiro is the town center.
Alvorge Town SquareAcross from the square is the Café Tira Peles, and in the blue and white building above is a mini-market. This cafe used to be owned by the proprietor of the Albergue O Lagareiro and our first time through here he was the one to greet us at the café when we arrived (before his albergue had opened).
This friendly gentleman guided us through town, continuing north on the Camino, 300 meters from the square, to the church on the north side. There is a sign on the church wall, directing the pilgrim to the donativo albergue that is run by the church, pointing to the right and off Camino. Inquire at the café for the keys.
After turning right, a few meters past the church, come to a T-intersection where you see a large white building across the street. The albergue is in the basement of this center. Reach it by turning to the right, and walk down the hill to the drive way at the bottom on the left. Shown below is how it looks, with the entrance on the back side of the center.
The albergue sleeps ten, but we were the only ones there that night! There is no kitchen to speak of except for a microwave, and the place was only marginally clean when we arrived. They do have cubbies for two which were nice, but the bunk beds had washable sheets on them that most likely hadn't been washed in some time!
The Parochial Albergue de Peregrinos in AlvorgeSince we arrived early in the afternoon, around 2:00 pm, and it was nice and sunny, Rich stripped his bed and hand washed his fitted cotton-knit sheet in the outside hand sink that you can see in the photo of the albergue, above.
I was too lazy to wash that heavy sheet, so I found the cleanest blanket in the place, and put it over the bed, like a sheet. I had my sleep sack, so I felt OK with that. There were no bed bugs! If there had been, I don't know what I would have done! (Since at the time this was the only accommodation in Alvorge. And perhaps things have changed since my original story. Current reviews say it is austere but comfortable.)
We had plenty of time to relax, wash our clothes and sit in the warm spring sun. We went back up to the café for an early drink and they asked us if we were hungry. We said "yes" and they asked if an omelette was OK and we repeated the "yes!" They fed us an early dinner at about 6:30. Wonderful!
The simple food was absolutely delicious!
Because of my swollen ankle, I decided to refrain from wine with dinner. I thought it would be better. Rich also refrained, and the café staff looked at us, surprised, and as if we might be a bit mad not to have wine with dinner!
I continued to get by with my Tarzan Spanish, with the friendly proprietor, who didn't seem to mind that I was using it. Apparently his wife speaks English, but she only showed up later in the evening.
The proprietor's attitude towards us shifted when we ordered ourselves a shot of Ginja, their cherry-type liquor for after dinner. It was a nice finish to the tasty meal.
At the albergue, when we left in the morning, we also left the key on the table by the donativo box. I gave handsomely to the church, in hopes that someone could be paid in the future to wash the sheets on the bed!
I loved the simple, rural experience of this small Portuguese town, and could even overlook the dirty sheets. Please, if you stay here, also donate well. I suppose not enough people support this very convenient parochial albergue!
Along the N-348, just to the west of the center of Alvorge, there is also the Quinta da Maceda, which rents individual rooms (scroll to the bottom of the website, as it also rents the entire villa so don't be alarmed at the price tag). Right beside the Quinta is the Casas da Ladeia, but it is not appropriate for pilgrim’s with its ultra-high price and minimum night stay requirement.
Lessons Learned on Day Seven, Camino Portugués
While I had concern in my heart for the status of my health, with the shorter day and slower pace, I did indeed enjoy this lovely and most rural walk on day seven of the Camino Portugués.
I had proven to myself, that I could manage this day for the better. I had time to baby my ankle, elevate it at breaks during the day, and for a long time in the evening. I laid in my bunk bed with my feet resting on the bottom of the upper bunk, as I read and journaled about the day.
Rich massaged my swollen ankle and with the help of ibuprofen, I managed to greatly reduce the swelling. Because there was not much pain with my "injury" I was able to do the 23 km to Alvorge!
I was happy and grateful, though somewhat lonely without our Aussie mates, nor any other pilgrims with whom to fellowship. I was just filled with happiness and satisfaction that I made it without any real complications. I breathed deeply and kept my fingers crossed.
Salutation
May your own day seven on the Camino Portugués be filled with healthy self-monitoring, self-knowledge, self-care and lots and lots of Light! It is better to be healthy, happy, injury free and full of Light, than to push on no matter what! Ultreia (a wish for unfailing courage) is a great word, and a great concept, if done with self-consciousness and moderation. I was living proof.
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