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Day Twenty on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués ~ Tui to O Porriño, 16.9 Km (10.5 Miles)

Day twenty on the central route of the Camino Portugués can be very long or very short, depending on your desires. The total distance for the traditional stage from Tui to Redondela, I measured at 32.2 km (20.01 miles). We chose to do the entire stage in one day, but I have split the stage into two articles for ease of writing. Thus, this article will only cover the Way from Tui to Porriño.

We were able to walk from Tui to Porriño with our dear Camino friend, Glyvia, who currently lives in Spain and who joined us for this portion. This was to be our third meeting with her on a Camino, in as many years, but it always feels like we have known her for so much longer!

"Walking with a friend in the dark is better than walking alone in the light." ~ Helen Keller

Map and Stats of Day Twenty on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués

Here is my interactive Google map of the route from Tui to Porriño. As you can see, there is a lot of country walking with not very many services between these two cities, so plan your day accordingly. 

Despite the many kilometers through the countryside, this day has a lot of pavement walking! It was great for Magdalena in her wheelchair, but not so great for those of us traveling on foot. 

Interactive Google Map of Day Twenty on the Camino Portugués, Central Route

This is the elevation profile from Tui to O Porriño. As you can see it is full of little ups and downs with very little elevation change.

Elevation Profile for Day Twenty, Central Route, Camino Portugués, Tui to O PorriñoElevation Profile for Day Twenty, Central Route, Camino Portugués, Tui to O Porriño

While this day can be extended to Redondela, as we actually did, the steep climb after O Porriño makes for a very long and grueling day. The pouring rain that we experienced after O Porriño that we experienced (see day twenty-one) also added to the difficulty.

It was a Herculean effort for us to make it all the way to Redondela in one day, and most likely, this is true for most pilgrims. Choose your own day's length wisely. O Porriño makes a sensible place to end the day for most pilgrims, after 18.4 kilometers, about half-way to Redondela.

Photo-Rich Travelogue of Day Twenty, Central Route of the Camino Portugués

It was raining and bleary-looking, on the morning of our day twenty of the central route on the Portuguese Camino. The question about who was staying and who was walking kept coming up during our breakfast, included in the price of our albergue, and which we had in the lovely kitchen and dining room. There were still a few undecideds.

Matt had only tennis shoes instead of water-resistant shoes and he also had blisters. He did not want to walk in the rain. Magdalena, in her wheelchair, has a much harder time in the rain, due to her hands getting wet and slippery on wet wheels.

All of a sudden, Magdalena says "I am going!" Matt, not wanting to be left behind, agreed to join the group. So, off we all went, not one to be left behind. 

Here is a photo of the Rúa Antero Rubin, the street in front of our albergue, the Santo Domingo, as looked the afternoon of the day before, on day nineteen. I wish it looked like this on day twenty! (If you are looking for accommodations in Tui, click here.)

Bridge Over the Rúa Antero Rubin in Tui,  on day twenty on the Central Route of the Portuguese CaminoBridge Over the Rúa Antero Rubin

We set off down the road, with the Igrexa de Santo do Domingo, immediately on our right.

Walking by the Igrexa de Santo do Domingo in Tui on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWalking by the Igrexa de Santo do Domingo

There was a light drizzle as we turned right on the Rúa San Bartolomeu after only a few meters from our albergue, shown below. 

Right Turn on the Rúa San Bartolomeu in Tui  on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoRight Turn on the Rúa San Bartolomeu

In a few more meters we came to  this plaza, shown below, and crossed it by this gazebo and cruzeiro. The rain was glistening on the pavement. It is beautiful in the photo and I was in good cheer despite the rain, hopeful for a good day. 

Cross the Plaza at Gazebo on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoCross the Plaza at Gazebo

We continued on the Rúa San Bartolomeu to pass in front of the chapel of the same name, the Igrexa de San Bartolomeu, pictured below.

Igrexa de San Bartolomeu in Tui, on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoIgrexa de San Bartolomeu

Immediately after the church you take a left onto a farmer's lane heading northeast, shown below on day twenty of the central route of the Portuguese Camino. 

Join Farmer's Lane on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoJoin Farmer's Lane

After about 300 meters on the lane, take a right turn to join a paved road, the Rúa Arraial. Here is Glyvia, our friend smiling for the photo. 

Glyvia on the Rúa ArraialGlyvia on the Rúa Arraial

In a few hundred more meters, we came to the historic Puente de A Veiga, an original Roman bridge which was a part of the old roman route, the Via Romana XIX. There are picnic tables, if you have the opportunity to rest here. 

Picnic Area at Roman Bridge, Puente de A Veiga on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoPicnic Area at Roman Bridge, Puente de A Veiga

By the bridge is this sculpture of a pilgrim, below, and to the left of the sculpture on the other side of the road is a small fountain with a scallop shell and a staff (not pictured) where you can fill your water bottles. Here Glyvia and I are posing in the drizzle. If you want more information on this area click here.

Glyvia and Elle by the Puente de A Veiga on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia and Elle by the Puente de A Veiga

The Camino de Santiago does not actually cross the bridge, but travels past it and northward on the Camino Barros, shown to the left side in the photo above.

You continue on the Camino Barros for about one kilometer on this lovely lane, below... 

Lovely Lane Called the Camino Barros on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoLovely Lane Called the Camino Barros

...turning right onto the Sendo Barros, pictured below, with the waymark indicating that you are continuing to follow the Via Romana XIX.

Along the Via Romana XIX on the Senda Barros on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoAlong the Via Romana XIX on the Senda Barros

The Senda Barros is paved, and here I was looking back at Borut and Miriam, all smiles in the rain!

Borut and Miriam on the Senda Barros on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoBorut and Miriam on the Senda Barros

Ahead were the railroad tracks we needed to walk under. 

Walking Under the Railroad Tracks on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWalking Under the Railroad Tracks

Next you come to intersection with the N550, after about 3/4 kilometer on the Senda Barros, cross it and onto the Estrada Rebordáns, shown below. 

Cross the N550 and Onto the Estrada Rebordáns on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoCross the N550 and Onto the Estrada Rebordáns

In a few meters the next turn is to the right and towards the town of Virxe do CamiñoGlyvia posed for me on the corner at the kilometer marker of 111.5. We had such a good time chatting as we walked and catching up on our lives. 

Glyvia at 111.5 Kilometer Waymark in the town of Virxe do Caminño on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia at 111.5 Kilometer Waymark

In about 200 meters, you come to the town church. The Camino walks behind the Capela Virxe do Camiño, shown below. The wooden sign informs you of your location.

The Backside of the Virxe do Camiño Church on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoThe Backside of the Virxe do Camiño Church

Just after the church, you join the PO-342, turning left. In a few meters, up and over the bridge you cross the A-55 super highway. The sign lets you know that you are leaving the town of Virxe do Camiño.

Leaving Virxe do Camiño on the P0-342 on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoLeaving Virxe do Camiño on the P0-342

The Way stays on the paved PO-342 for a long trudge, or shall I say splash in our case? At least there is a nice, wide shoulder for the pilgrimage traveler to walk upon, as the sign points you toward Mosende.

Wide, Safe Shoulder on the PO-342 on day twenty of the Portuguese Way on the Central RouteWide, Safe Shoulder on the PO-342

There is a nice Pilgrim's Path along this section of the PO-342, showing some nice planning on the part of the administrators. They made us our own lane for which I was very appreciative!

Glyvia Looks Down the Pilgrim's Path on the PO-342 on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia Looks Down the Pilgrim's Path on the PO-342

The forest all around us was fresh and beautiful from the rain. After about 5.0 kilometers, the sun came out! We went by a nice pilgrim's board with information about the surrounding area and a local map of the Camino de Santiago.

Glyvia Celebrates the Return of the Sun on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia Celebrates the Return of the Sun!

Next the PO-342 walks under the E-1, the Autopista del Atlántico, pictured below, on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese Camino.

Walk Under the E-1, Autopista del Atlántico on Day twenty of the Portugues Camino on the Central RouteWalk Under the E-1, Autopista del Atlántico

The roadway was easy rolling for Magdalena! Not so great for those of us on foot!

Easy Rolling Magdalena on the PO-342 on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoEasy Rolling Magdalena on the PO-342

Ahead of Magdalena and Matt in the photo below, is the intersection, where we finally left the PO-342 after about a full 2.0 kilometers. 

Leave the PO-342 HereLeave the PO-342 Here

There is another really nice information board at the turn off the highway on the natural features of the landscape. 

Glyvia and the Information Board at the Turnoff on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia and the Information Board at the Turnoff

Within a few meters you cross the Autopista del Atlántico again, only this time above it. Storm clouds were brewing again as well!

Crossing Over the Autopista del Atlántico, E-1 on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoCrossing Over the Autopista del Atlántico, E-1

However, we did get a reprieve when the beautiful sun came streaming through the forest on the lane after the bridge, below. 

Sun Streaming Through the Trees on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoSun Streaming Through the Trees

The next landmark we came to was the Cruz de San Telmo, in less than 1/2 kilometer...

The Cruz de San Telmo on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoThe Cruz de San Telmo

...just before the bridge crossing  the Río San Simón.

Wooden Footbridge on the Río San Simón on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWooden Footbridge on the Río San Simón

Here is Glyvia and Rich ~ good friends connecting on day twenty of the Camino Portugués, on the central route. While it was no longer raining, and Rich had even taken off his rain jacket, our sunshine was short-lived.

Glyvia and Rich on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia and Rich on Day Twenty on the Central Route of the Portuguese Camino

We had fallen behind the rest, Rich, Glyvia and I. Ahead the Team Magdalena was milling about on the road. Were they waiting on us? We were coming into a town, having left the farmer's lane after 1.5 kilometers on it. 

Team Magdalena ahead on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoTeam Magdalena Ahead

As it turns out, they were laughing and admiring the name of the town! Here is Magdalena in A Magdalena! You can faintly see the name of the town on the wooden post to the right of Magdalena.

Magdalena in A Magdalena on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoMagdalena in A Magdalena!

And the Team Magdalena was all lined up in a row, so I snapped their photo as well in the town of A Magdalena on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese Camino.

Rich, Miriam, Borut, Magnus and MattRich, Miriam, Borut, Magnus and Matt

Here we are, walking through A Magdalena. There is supposed to be a café in town along the Camino de Santiago according to Google maps, however, I totally missed it if it still exists. 

Walking Through A Magdalena on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWalking Through A Magdalena

You wind around and through the town, following the waymarks, for less than one kilometer...

Winding Around the Town of A Magdalena on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWinding Around the Town of A Magdalena

 ...until you come to a turn-off to another farmer's lane. Here is Matt performing the tipping technique with Magdalena's chair on the rough areas. He had become quite a pro by now. 

Right Turn Off to Rough Lane on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoRight Turn Off to Rough Lane

Within 150 meters or so, you meet the Río Louro again and cross it on the charming Roman bridge, the Puente de Orbenlle, below.

Matt Assists Magdalena Across the Puente de Orbenlle on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoMatt Assists Magdalena Across the Puente de Orbenlle
The Via Romana Crosses the Puente de Orbenlle on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoThe Via Romana Crosses the Puente de Orbenlle

This lane continues to wander through the forest for about another 1/2 kilometer before coming a T-intersection, below. This is the town of Orbenlle's greeting to the pilgrims. There is a mural depicting the very famous Portico da Gloria from the cathedral entrance in Santiago de Compostela. Pause for a minute and look at the artistic depictions. Then you turn left here onto the street called the Polígono das Gándaras.

The Portico da Gloria Mural in Orbenlle on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoThe Portico da Gloria Mural in Orbenlle

The Critical Decision Point! (Big Orange Star on the Map)

Pay close attention here to the next instructions! As of autumn, of 2018, after only about 150 meters past the mural, you come to a double waymark, shown below, that seems to be very confusing! I have marked this decision point with a big orange star on the map above!

(A special shout out to my Camino Forum friends, who helped me re-configure the route and John Gilliland for allowing me to use his photo!)

The way down the hill and to the left takes you on a lane that leads you back into the forest, over another old bridge and on secondary roads. This way to the left is labeled "C. Complementario." This is the way that you want to go!

The way to the right, will conveniently take you through the next town, Os Eidos, by several bars and onward into an ugly industrial area for many kilometers to O Porriño!

The way the markers appear, you may have the tendency to take the right path, believing this looks more like the "official" way! Do not be fooled here!

Double Waymark After Mural in OrbenlleDouble Waymark After Mural

These double waymarks were not there when we walked this way in the prior spring. It seems that there has been a war of many years, at this very intersection, where paint is removed, yellow arrows changed, wooden signs taken down, all in the attempt to get the pilgrimage traveler to go to the right, through town and by the local proprietors establishments!

Who knows what you will find when you walk through here, as the route wars may continue! But at least, now you know!

This is not totally a bad thing, if you wish for a stop at the nearest cafe. You can tell by my Google map above, on the orange track, that we did exactly that. But at that time, we were still following the yellow arrows as they used to be! 

Since it was starting to drizzle again by the time we reached this decision point, we were grateful to walk the additional few meters to the one and only café we had encountered thus far, the Bar Laguna, in Os Eidos after 10 kilometers more or less into day twenty on the Camino Portugués along the central route. Consult the interactive Google map above for its exact location. 

When I was writing this information, I noticed the loop detour to the Bar Laguna. I laughed when I realized that indeed we had been walked around to the bar. I thought it was the Camino planners who did this, but I should have known better. In fact, I even called it the "Conspiracy Detour" in my original writing! 

Here is a photo of the Bar Laguna. It was a well-timed stop for us. It is about 650 meters off-Camino, and the loop back for a total of about an additional one kilometer if you choose to detour here. 

The Bar Laguna in Os Eidos After 10 Kilometers on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoThe Bar Laguna in Os Eidos After 10 Kilometers

If you decide you don't need a pit stop, take the left hand turn at the double waymark and in only about 300 meters, come to an intersection, go left and come to this bridge, the Puente de Baranco, to cross the Río Louro.

Glyvia and Miriam Cross the Puente de Baranco on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia and Miriam Cross the Puente de Baranco

This area must have already received a lot of rain, as evidenced by these muddy ruts in the road after the bridge. Perhaps this is a frequently occurring phenomenon, as there was a nice stone path to the right of the road to walk on!

Stone Path Beside Muddy Ruts in the Road on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoStone Path Beside Muddy Ruts in the Road

Where there was no standing water and mud, the lane looked very lush and inviting.

Verdant Country Lane Continues on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoVerdant Country Lane Continues

The Camino de Santiago briefly joins the pavement...

Joining the Pavement Briefly on the Camino de Santiago on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoJoining the Pavement Briefly on the Camino de Santiago

...before turning onto another path, below, that follows a canal. It is about one additional kilometer from the turnoff into the forest at Os Eidos, until the forest road becomes a path. 

Glyvia on the Path that Follows a Canal on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoGlyvia on the Path that Follows a Canal

The path turns to a forest road again, for 1/2 kilometer more...

Rich, Miriam and Borut on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoRich, Miriam and Borut on Day Twenty, Central Route, Portuguese Camino

...before joining the pavement, below and walking toward the overpass of the E-1. 

Walking Toward the E-1 on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWalking Toward the E-1

Instead of walking under the E-1, the familiar Autopista del Atlántico, you turn right to walk parallel to it on a dirt lane, shown below. At the top of the lane, you turn left to walk over the highway.

Walking on the Lane Paralleling the E-1 on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWalking on the Lane Paralleling the E-1

Next, you bend to the right after the highway and follow a quiet paved road back into the forest. You come out of the forest and walk through the fields, in the direction of the next town of Centeáns.

Walking Through the Town of Centeáns on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoWalking Through the Town of Centeáns

North of Centeáns, you turn right to head eastward again, coming to a green beltway. 

A Pilgrim's Green Beltway on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoA Pilgrim's Green Beltway

Cross the Autopista again. It is about 2.25 kilometers from the last crossing of the Autopista through Centeáns until this crossing. We did not see any cafés along this section.

Cross Over the Autopista Again on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoCross Over the Autopista Again

You continue to follow the green pathway on the Rua Guia for about 1.30 kilometers from the highway crossing, where the Way becomes more industrial looking as you near O Porriño.

The Green Pathway Continues Toward O Porriño on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoThe Green Pathway Continues Toward O Porriño

Come to a small roundabout, where you turn right toward the city, continuing on the green beltway.

Here is a photo of Glyvia, Borut and Rich approaching the roundabout. It was raining quite nicely at this point, and I was eager to get into town to have a cup of hot coffee and to dry out!

Turn right at the Roundabout on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoTurn right at the Roundabout

Come to an overpass of the A-55 after about 1/3 kilometer. Walk under this highway and immediately look for a path left and to the north along the Louro River. This photo below, shows the turn and the small yellow arrows on two blue signs. This turn is easy to miss and we had a hard time spotting it.

Turn Left Immediately After Underpass on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoTurn Left Immediately After Underpass

The final segment to O Porriño is a lovely riverwalk along the Louro River for about a full 2.0 kilometers. On a clear day, it would have been an extremely nice, shady and cool walk.

Riverwalk on the Río Louro on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoRiverwalk on the Río Louro
Riverwalk on the Río Louro, Day Twenty on the Central Route, Camino PortuguésRiverwalk on the Río Louro, Day Twenty on the Central Route, Camino Portugués
Sloshing Through Puddles on the Riverwalk on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoSloshing Through Puddles on the Riverwalk

The riverwalk ends here at the Albergue de Peregrinos de O Porriño. We walked around the left side of the albergue to the Avenida Buenos Aires.

Albergue de Peregrinos de O Porriño on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoAlbergue de Peregrinos de O Porriño

Turn right on the Avenida Buenos Aires to head to the center of town. If you go to the left on the Avenida you will see another albergue, the Alojamiento Camino Portugués, another option if you are staying in O Porriño. Click here for more options.

Here is a photo of the center of O Porriño, at the end of our day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese Camino.

Downtown O Porriño on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoDowntown O Porriño

We went onward to look for a café for a break. Our plan was to take a long rest and continue onward to Redondela. We stopped at the first place we came to, the Restaurante Paso A Nivel in the center of town, just before the rail tracks, seen in the photo above. It was fabulous to finally get in out of the rain! 

Resting at the Restaurante Paso A Nivel in O Porriño on day twenty on the central route of the Portuguese CaminoResting at the Restaurante Paso A Nivel in O Porriño

There is another Albergue close to the Restaurante Paso A Nivel, called the Senda Sur and also the Apartamentos Porriño

Reaching this restaurant was a double edged sword. While I was ecstatic to get out of the rain, this would be the final stop with our friend Glyvia. 

It was here in O Porriño that we had to say goodbye to, Glyvia. Perhaps she was able, but she was definitely unwilling to continue onward to Redondela for the entire 33 kilometers, most especially not in the steady rain! She lives in Spain and she walks sections of the Camino whenever she wants. 

It was still hard to put her into a taxi, that would take her back to Tui, where she would collect her car, and drive home to the coast. We reluctantly said good-bye, until our next Camino!

Reflections on Day Twenty, Central Route of the Camino Portugués

Rich and I had a long and wonderful 18 kilometer walk with our Camino friend Glyvia, chatting merrily as we slopped through the on-again, off-again rain. I have been so lucky on all of our Caminos, meeting very little rain. I am most grateful for this! Day twenty on the central route was my first in which a steady rain was the norm for the day. 

While the rain was tolerable for the trip to O Porriño, if you read on to day twenty-one, you will see that the weather conditions were going to deteriorate.

Team Magdalena was still together, working and walking as a group. Thus far Matt's feet held up and Magdalena was happy, focused and her hands were holding up as well. 

Salutation

May your own day twenty on the Camino Portugués, via the central route be filled with growing friendships that will stay with you for the rest of your life. Walk together with your friends, in the dark, lifting each other higher and higher. E ultreia e suseia!





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