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The Way of St. Francis, from Poggio San Lorenzo to Ponticelli, is another long jaunt through the rural Italian countryside. It is a perfect day to reflect on the following quote, of which St. Francis would be proud:
“The happiest man is he who learns from nature the lesson of worship.” ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson, Nature

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As you may have already noticed, the Way is now entering the land of the Sabini (Sabines), and many towns are followed by the name "Sabino(a)," Ponticelli included. You will often see it as "Ponticelli Sabino" as well as just "Ponticelli." This is because of a long cultural and historical connection in this area to the pre-Roman era mountain peoples, the Sabini who lived in the hills to the north of what is now Rome.
As Rome was growing in the mid-8th century BCE, it consisted of predominantly men. The town required women to ensure its future, thus the famous tale of the "rape" and the kidnapping of the Sabine women from the surrounding hills.
With the history set aside, the walk is one of serenity, allowing many opportunities to reflect and worship Nature itself!
This stage has plenty of services, although in Monteleone Sabino, after 5.75 kilometers, they are off-route to the west by one-half to one kilometer.
On route, about halfway is Poggio Moiano, with all the services a pilgrim could need. It is a convenient halfway stop! There are no services in the final nine kilometers of the stage.
After 14.5 kilometers, there is another route alternative, shown on the map below, in orange. For the entire Way of St. Francis, where you can see where the two routes meet again, click here.
This orange route is longer and harder and would require a stop somewhere along the almost 26 kilometer length of it. Toffia has the first accommodations, at a distance of 11.5 kilometers. From Poggio San Lorenzo, this would be a 26 kilometer day total. Farfa is the next town, at 15.1 kilometers and a total of 29.6.
The reasons to take the orange alternative are many:
Even with all those attractions on the orange route, we chose to stay on the shorter, standard blue route shown here. I almost wish we hadn't!
While the day is short, it will require some effort, with the many elevation changes. As you can see in the elevation profile below, the stage consists of 811 meters (2661 feet) accumulative elevation gain and 975 meters (3199 feet) of loss. Not insignificant. And the individual climbs, while not super lengthy, they are steep!
If desired, you can always split this stage, stopping in Poggio Moiano, however at about 11 kilometers total, that would be quite short a day. And unfortunately, after Poggio Moiano, there is nothing but countryside.
Elevation Profile, Way of St. Francis, Poggio Bustone to Ponticelli, Day TwentyFor your convenience and for comparison's sake, I included the elevation profile of the 25.9 kilometer orange route below. Remember, this profile begins after 14.5 kilometers from Poggio San Lorenzo! You will have to make an overnight stop somewhere along the way.
The stage consists of 830 meters (2723 feet) accumulative elevation gain and 975 meters (3638 feet) of loss. The long 342 meter (1122 feet) climb over 2.6 kilometers that you see prominently on the elevation profile is from just before Farfa to Fara In Sabina.
Elevation Profile, Way of St. Francis, Poggio Bustone to Ponticelli, Day TwentyWalking out from the Casa del Pelegrino, into the main square in Poggio San Lorenzo, where the prominent 1893 fountain resides next to the Forever Bar, walk south along the Via Quinzia.
1893 Fountain, Poggio San Lorenzo SquareThe Way along the Via Quinzia, was quiet, even after sunrise and the Begonias graced the street. Their greeting was magical to me so I shot this photo, below.
Along the Via QuinziaAfter only a few minutes walking through town, come to a playground and a soccer field. Turn left immediately after this park onto a secondary paved road, shown below.
Left Turn Here After Soccer FieldContinue on this paved road as it descends from the hilltop ridge that Poggio San Lorenzo sits atop. The road takes a hairpin turn to the right, passing the welcome to Poggio San Lorenzo sign. A few steps beyond this hairpin turn, the route will turn left again onto another paved road.
Above the rooftops, the sun was rising over the distant mountains. It is a sight that always brings me a sense of peace.
Sunrise Over the RooftopsContinuing the descent, this road takes another big hairpin turn, through olive groves.
After about 1/4 kilometer past this second hairpin turn, look for another turn to the left onto a lane and into the deep countryside, below.
Leave Pavement for Country LaneA few meters after the turn, and about one kilometer from the square in Poggio San Lorenzo, the descent ends and then starts a steep climb. The steep climb continues through the forest along this unpaved country lane, climbing to a ridgetop for about another full kilometer. Climb the final meters to a homestead on your left.
When you feel the elevation change shift, you are beginning the next descent as you pass the homestead soon after the top. Just past this homestead, the lane ends at a T-intersection with another lane after about two kilometers total from the Poggio San Lorenzo square. Turn right.
Turn Right at T-IntersectionA few steps after the turn, the road bends to the left onto a brief section of scored concrete pavement, passing another homestead and coming to another T-intersection. Turn left here. You can see the town of Monteleone Sabino on the hill, about 3.5 kilometers away, see below. The Way of St. Francis will walk to the side of it, but not through it, so any services are about one kilometer off-route. But first, you must descend steeply, winding around and then climb out to the ridge on the other side!
Monteleone Sabino Seen in the Distance at Left TurnAfter a few more steps, there is a very ruined-looking water fountain on your left. While there was no warning about the water, I would not trust it. It would be a nice place to rest on the bench by the lily pond!
Continue walking on this lane for approximately 1/3 kilometer, when you arrive at a crossroads with a paved road after 2.45 kilometers total, below. Crossover the road, the Via Salaria Vecchio and continue straight onward, now on a path.
The next 3.25 kilometers will be off-pavement on paths and country lanes!
Cross Over PavementThe path is short-lived and soon widens to more of a lane as it continues to descend.
The Descent from the Ridge, Way of St. Francis, Poggio San Lorenzo to PonticelliAfter only a kilometer's worth of descent, another small climb begins.
When the climb flattens out, you will come to a Y-intersection after about 3.75 kilometers total into the day. Stay to the right at this intersection. You will catch more glimpses of Monteleone Sabino and another fortified town, perhaps Ginestra Sabina, on your right as you walk along.
After the turn, the Way now descends sharply again on the continuing tractor lane. Along the lane, pass this large rock-waymark, below.
Interesting Rock Waymark and CairnAfter the rock waymark, the cuts on the side of the road are quite deep as it continues the steep drop. Come to a stream and cross it on the bridge shown below. After the stream there is a ruined building in the trees.
Stream Crossing on a Small BridgeAfter the stream, the Way gets a bit overgrown once again, and takes you through a path full of brambles. As you walk through the brambles, you will come to a T-intersection a bit hard to discern, where you turn to the left. Fortunately, there is a Via di Francesco sign.
A few steps onward, the Way crosses a second stream on the rocks provided. There is another barely discernible ruined building in the trees to the left.
It is in this area that you will also reach the bottom of the descent. Now you will begin the climb up from the drainage elevation low, to the ridge ahead and toward Monteleone Sabino. This next climb consists of 170 meters (558 feet) in elevation gain over 1.4 kilometers in distance.
The path becomes wider again, and quite rocky and steep. There are some sections with grooved concrete, making the climb easier.
After about 300 meters of climbing, you will arrive at a Y-intersection, pictured below. Stay to the right and uphill, continuing the long ascent.
High and to the Right at This IntersectionYou will know the pleasant and easy-to-follow lane is nearing an end about one kilometer later, when you see the tell-tale cypress trees of the town cemetery ahead. You are entering the outskirts of Monteleone Sabino.
Cypress Trees of the Monteleone Sabino Cemetery AheadAfter about 5.66 kilometers when the lane finally ends, it comes to a T-intersection with a paved lane. Turn right here.
A few steps later, merge with the wider paved road, the Via Pisciarello, by staying to the right. (To the left is the Monteleone Sabino Cemetery.) Ahead you will see the bell tower of the Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Colli.
After a few more steps and after 5.75 kilometers total from Poggio San Lorenzo, come to another T-intersection with the Via della Libertà. It is here that you have reached the top of this current climb. To the right is the church, and the town of Monteleone Sabino.
The town does not hold much for the pilgrimage traveler and it is a significant walk off-route to get to anything. There is the B&B Santavittoria, and the Atollo della Sabina, both about 1/2 kilometer down the road, but they are pricey for the average pilgrim. The agriturismo De Luca Vittorio looks like it only books for a week, but sometimes they will help out pilgrims regardless. Any eateries are another 1/2 kilometer down the road from these accommodations.
Back at the intersection with the Via della Libertà, the Way goes to the left and toward the cemetery.
Pass Monteleone Sabino CemeteryAfter passing the cemetery, the road bends to the right and heads in the direction of the Santuario di Santa Vittoria. After the bend, be sure to look over your right shoulder to see the Convento Cavalletti and Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Colli, an attractive sight on the top of the hill!
After walking a few minutes on this road, the Way comes to a large historic billboard. There is a lane to the left by the billboard that you will turn onto.
And on the corner after the turn is the historic 2nd century CE, Roman amphitheatre, the Anfiteatro Romano di Trebula Mutuesca. You will most likely not be able to enter the site, but because the amphitheatre is very ruined, there is really not much more to see than what you can see from the fenceline.
The route follows the ruins of a wall to the entrance building and the museum. Everything is closed and locked up tight. If you wish to learn more about the history, you can click on the link.
Walk onward on the lane, as it takes you through the forest and comes out at the end of a soccer field. Turn left at the fenceline by the field and continue through the grassy archeological park ahead, looking carefully for waymarks.
You will walk towards an archeological trench, and head for the building on the other side of the park, shown in the next photo. You can see the stones laid out along the trench. However, there is not much to see, other than a foundation.
Cross Archeological Park, Way of St. Francis, Poggio San Lorenzo to PonticelliPick up the road by the building, and turn left, then an immediate right by a white cross and onto the Via Santa Vittoria. Continue descending along the pavement.
Within a few steps, you will arrive at the gate of the 11th century Romanesque Santuario di Santa Vittoria. The sanctuary was under renovation when we passed by, so entrance was not an option.
However, below you can see the Roman lions and columns in the courtyard, pilfered from the Trebula Mutuesca archeological site. If you read more about the history of this church through the link above, there are more Roman artifacts within the actual construction as well.
Santuario di Santa Vittoria CourtyardApparently there are also 13th century frescoes remaining inside the church, in fragmented condition, one depicting Santa Vittoria herself.
Also, below the church are the historically significant catacombs, with a marble sarcophagus, supposedly containing the remains of the saint.
This church was built over an earlier shrine founded around the cult of St. Victoria, a Christian martyr from the third century. Click on the links provided to learn more about this church and the legend surrounding the town's conversion to Christianity through Santa Vittoria and her martyrdom.
And farther along the road, this is the best view I could get of the sanctuary from the outside, by the southern entrance gate, below. You can see the slightly pink hue to the pale façade and the elegant rosette and carvings on the roof line.
Santuario di Santa Vittore from Southern GateThis sanctuary would have been wonderful to see! Hopefully it will be open soon for all the history buffs on the Way of St. Francis, Poggio San Lorenzo to Ponticelli.
After admiring the sanctuary from the outside, continue downhill for a few steps, when you come to a bend, turning to the right onto what is now the Via Vallerossa. There is a family cemetery on the right, with more pilfered Roman artifacts, just beyond this junction. And a few steps to the left is a large concrete water fountain.
A few more steps beyond the fountain, is another family cemetery, shown next, replete with Roman lions!
Family Cemetery with Roman Lions and ColumnsContinue walking downhill along the pavement for about another 150 meters, cross a bridge, then you will arrive at a Y-intersection with a gravel road. Stay on the pavement to the left.
About not quite another kilometer along the pavement, cross another drainage on a bridge. This is the low point after the two kilometer descent.
After the second bridge, begin the 3rd significant climb of the day, of 116 meters (380 feet) of elevation gain over the next 2.2 kilometers.
Pass yet another water fountain along the way, and come to a huge hairpin turn to the right, after 7.9 kilometers total. Look carefully here for a turn to the left onto a lane, see below.
Leave Pavement - Left Turn Onto LaneThe Via now follows this path for about 850 meters on the way to the next town of Poggio Moiano, which climbs steeply and is quite rugged.
Onward Path Towards Poggio MoianoAs you continue the climb up the hill through the forest, the path widens, is grassy in places and affords more comfortable walking.
As you walk along, there will be open views, and you will actually see views of the town ahead, on your right.
After approximately 8.75 kilometers total for the day, arrive at an intersection with a paved road and turn left.
Take this road, alternating between gravel and pavement for about 2/3 kilometer, continuing the climb. As you climb, you will continue to see views of Poggio Moiano, and the next destination, the Chiesa di San Martino.
Chiesa di San MartinoThis church also houses a donation-based pilgrim's hostel, the Ostello di San Martino. It has 4 rooms with 11 beds, a fully equipped kitchen, in the renovated church with a garden and a washer/dryer. You can contact Antonio at +39 340 471 5036 and must book at least 24 hours in advance. The hostel gets excellent reviews.
Continue climbing until you come to a T-intersection with the Via San Martino - turn right and walk around a big bend, descending to the San Martino church and arriving after a few hundred meters. And here is yours truly at the door to the chapel.
Elle at the Chiesa di San MartinoThe church dates back to the 10th century, built from local stone and perhaps of Roman origin. The simple interior frescoes are from 1556 depicting Saint Martin and Saint Anthony.
Frescoes of the Chiesa di San MartinoThe shaded outside grounds are super nice and peaceful with picnic tables and a water fountain.
After visiting the church, there is a small climb for a few meters, which ends at a crossroads with the Via Circonvallazione Moianense after 9.9 kilometers. You will now descend through town.
Continue straight along the Via San Martino, for about 3/4 kilometer, descending steeply, crossing the SR314 highway, (turn right here for the Conad supermarket) and coming to the town hall in the Piazza Melchiore Cartoni, one block later. There is a water fountain to the right of the town hall.
Poggio Moiano is almost exactly halfway, arriving at this square after 10.6 kilometers. A perfect time for a break! And after the square, the final 10 kilometers have no more services on the Way of St. Francis from Poggio San Lorenzo to Ponticelli!
There is a tabacchi shop across from the town hall, where we got coffee, thinking it was a bar. They had absolutely no food. If you actually want food, if you turn right there is an actual bar in another block. There is also a pizza place next to the church, the Santi Maria della Concezione e Giovanni Battista to the left of the town hall.
Rich actually walked to the right to find the Conad supermarket, to get fruit and cheese, while I rested! He's a good guy.
In addition to the Ostello, Poggio Moiano offers three more accommodations, the more economical 2 BR apartment for up to five, the Moon Ash - Cenere di Luna along the SR314 highway to the south, the 2 BR apartment for up to five, the Casa Vacanze Le Tre Formiche very close to the Conad, and the Casa Puggimiano Casa Vacanze, near the town hall.
Continuing onward, in the piazza, look for the alleyway to the left of the Santi Maria church. This alleyway is not that easy to find. It looks like this, below. The church is the building by the T sign to the right.
Take Alleyway in the Piazza Melchiore CartoniFrom here, starting at this alleyway, is an enchanting walk through the old medieval town as the route descends steeply down the side of the hill!
Farther down, turn to the right, and pick up the Via Torrione as it zig-zags down the hill.
Turn to the right again, now onto the Via Scalinata which leads you to this lovely intersection, below.
Descending on the Via ScalinataAt this intersection take a hard left onto the Via Scandriglia where we stumbled on this gentleman creating the most wonderful mural of the surrounding area, see below (sorry for the sun-washed photo). We stopped and chatted as the artist explained the landmarks on the mural. He was so very proud of it! If you read this and walk this pilgrimage route, send us a copy of the completed mural!
Fountain and Mural Under CreationThere is also a water fountain here, to the left of the mural if you need water.
After several more zig-zags down the mountain, arrive at the final staircase leaving town, and onto a gravel lane exiting the town, below.
Leaving Poggio Moiano on a LaneThe beginning of this lane at around 11 kilometers total, marks the beginning of a long off-pavement section, for the next 7.8 kilometers, until the outskirts of Ponticelli! And also, just after the exit to town, you will pass another water fountain on this lane!
When the lane makes a bend to the right, look ahead for the medieval bridge after 11.3 kilometers total, below. This small bridge, almost hidden in the overgrowth, is the end of the long descent. And you know what happens next!
Elle at the Medieval BridgeAfter the bridge, start the next climb that is quite steep, but a brief one of 80 meters (262 feet) of elevation gain over 1/2 kilometer. First walk through a cluster of ruined buildings after the bridge.
This initial climb is on a lovely, shaded lane through the forest. Don't forget to turn around just after the ruined buildings and look back at the view of Poggio Moiano on the ridge behind you!
You may notice again, that on this steep ascent, there is grooved concrete to aid your footing!
Steep Shaded Forest LaneAfter the climb, 1/2 kilometer later, you will now be bouncing along the top of a ridge for the next 2.5 kilometers. It will feel nice after all the ascents and descents!
A few more meters onward from this top, you will come to a T-intersection with another gravel lane and a ruined building. Turn to the right.
Continue onward, pass a homestead and take a right turn onto the next lane, with a bunch of cast iron bathtubs in the corner, under the trees! This lane is called the Vocabolo La Piana.
Right Turn at BathtubsThe Vocabolo La Piana is a wonderful, improved gravel lane. About 3/4 kilometer later, come to another T-intersection with another gravel lane. This time turn to the left and onto the Vocabolo Prato Lago.
1/3 kilometer later, the lane bends to the right. A few meters later, you will turn to the right at a T-intersection, continuing along the Vocabolo Prato Lago.
Vocabolo Prato LagoAs you walk along the Prato Lago, you will catch glimpses of the huge Tiber River valley ahead. Rome is getting closer!
Walk by more homesteads, olive groves and lanes with remnants of asphalt.
After 14.5 kilometers total, come to a T-intersection. This is the end of the nice flat stretch.
At this intersection turn left, and notice the signpost. This is the decision point where the orange alternative route splits from the standard blue route. On the signpost, as you face it, it points to the right (south) to Ponticelli and to the left (northwest), it points to Farfa.
The alternative yellow route descends from here and the blue route begins a short and steep climb of 60 meters (200 feet) of elevation gain over about 600 meters distance, continuing along a nicely improved gravel lane.
Decision Point, Way of St. Francis, Poggio San Lorenzo to PonticelliAt the top, after 15.1 kilometers, notice the large sign pointing to the left to the Agriturismo Santo Paolo Alto (+39 327 870 3671), a possible accommodation. We are still about 5.0 kilometers away from Pointicelli at this juncture.
As you descend from this top, there are wonderful views ahead of the mountains and including the town of Scandriglia on the hilltop in the distance to the south, but not seen in the photo below. This town is not our destination.
Views of MountainsNegotiate two very large hairpin turns, first to the right, then to the left. After completing the second turn, when you come to more of an open meadow, beware, waymark finding becomes tricky. Stay to the left at a Y-intersection, which is difficult to see and keep along the lane close to the trees. These are two parallel lanes, so if you get on the wrong one it won't matter too much, except you won't see a waymark later at the next intersection.
After about 1/4 kilometer, come to a T-intersection with an established gravel lane, see below. Turn to the right, but stay right immediately after the sign and take the narrower tractor lane. The signage is not clear here, but you want the 2-track lane that ascends. You can see Rich standing on the correct lane if you expand the photo below.
Turn to the Right Onto the Tractor LaneHike up the tractor lane to the next intersection in the trees, not quite 100 meters later. Stay low and to the left.
Continue onward on the gravel lane, being comforted by the gold and blue painted waymarks in the trees shortly after the turn.
Drop down to the next intersection, at another hairpin turn, and turn right or eastward, away from Scandriglia which you can still see on the hill above you. This is the end of this current descent.
Right Turn at Hairpin Bend in the Road, Scandriglia OverheadYou are now beginning the final small climb of the day. Pass a large homestead on your left, shortly after the turn. The lane ahead, for the next 1.8 kilometers is rockier and rougher.
When you feel the elevation shift, and a descent begins, you will soon come to a T-intersection with an improved gravel lane, after 18.4 kilometers total for the Way of St. Francis from Poggio San Lorenzo to Ponticelli. Turn right.
Walk only about 1/3 kilometer on this lane, when you come to an intersection with your first paved road in many kilometers! Turn left onto the paved road. You will now begin the home stretch towards Ponticelli. It is less than 1.5 kilometers away.
Arrive at the Ponticelli Cemetery after about 2/3 kilometer along the pavement, recognized by the Cypress trees. Shortly beyond the cemetery, the street is called the Via XX Settembre.
You will notice a castle on the hill above Ponticelli as you descend. This is the 11th century Castello Orsini, a part of Ponticelli and was once a strategic military base. It has also been a residence for the noble Orsini-Barberini families. Most recently it was a tourist hotel, but currently is closed. The Via di Francesco does not pass by it directly, but it is a beautiful sight on the hill ~ so very Italy!
Castello Orsini400 meters past the cemetery, pass the pilgrim's accommodation, Il Viandante, with 10 beds in 4 rooms, (Cristina, +39 349 0914 666). The pilgrims I talked to who stayed here recommend it highly! It is less than 1/2 kilometer from the center of town.
About 1/4 kilometer later, after entering the town proper, arrive at a T-intersection with the Via Rieti and turn left to walk into the center of Ponticelli.
The first thing we noticed as we arrived at the center of town was the inviting tables of the Bar Mariani. We plopped down and ordered our usual caffè latte. And with it I had my new love, Sambuca, an anise-flavored liquor usually drunk after a meal with three espresso beans floating in it! For me, the two side-by-side are a delicious and quick pick-me-up!
Bar Mariani AheadWe were very hungry too, even after the drinks, so we asked what was available. Did they have sandwiches? Patrizia, who speaks no English went for Riccardo, who speaks excellent English. He offered us fresh Caprese salads which we eagerly said, "yes!" It is one of our favorite Italian dishes.
But this was no ordinary Caprese. The mozzarella cheese was so soft and creamy, the tomatoes perfectly ripe, the basil leaves incredibly aromatic, all drenched in homemade olive oil (yes, Riccardo grows and harvests his own olives and sends them to the local olive press). And we ate it all with wonderfully fresh Italian bread. I thought I had died and gone to pilgrim heaven.
Caprese SaladsRiccardo also owns La Casa Di Riccardo (+39 351 78 03 475 or +39 349 29 44 083). It is a donation-based pilgrim's house, with 2 dormitory rooms with 4 beds each and one living room sofa bed. It also has a full kitchen for breakfast and if you want to cook dinner.
However, I recommend you have Riccardo and Patrizia cook you dinner. When it was offered, we said yes, since the lunch was so amazing. And we were not disappointed. A home-style meal is always preferable in my opinion!
If you do want to cook dinner, or wish to stock your pack, there is a fruit shop along the main road, which has produce and other grocery items.
In addition to the Casa di Riccardo, there are the 1 BR Apartments 1913 (+39 331 85 38 445), the Casa Appennino, (+39 347 261 9609), a house for up to six, and the economical A Casa du Manganu, 1BR apartment for up to four. All are within the town limits.
Ponticelli is a little gem of a town. If you have some time, on this shorter day, a walk around only takes a few minutes to see this fortified village.
After we ate, cleaned up and rested, we walked up the street from the Casa di Riccardo, the Via Santa Maria delle Colle to the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Colle. This church is privately owned and we were so lucky to find it open. It is a most interesting church, dating back to the 13th century, and is one of the first churches built in Sabina, with a simple Romanesque façade.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del ColleInside are votive frescoes from the 13th to 15th centuries. This is a wonderful place to pause and reflect.
Fresco of the Chiesa di Santa Maria del ColleNext, we walked up the Via della Chiesa from the central square and the Bar Pizzeria La Torre, walking along the rampart walls, to the upper reaches of the small fortified town. We turned to the right onto the Via Monte Cavallo. The beautiful buildings at the top are the buildings of the Università Agraria di Ponticelli Sabino, the Agricultural University, occupying what was once the Castello.
Enter the inner courtyard through this archway, below.
Entryway to the Università Agraria di Ponticelli SabinoThe inner courtyard not only houses these wonderful buildings, but it sports fabulous views over the town.
Inner Courtyard, Università Agraria di Ponticelli SabinoAnd the village fortifications would not be complete without a watchtower. The next day twenty-one passes this stronghold.
Ponticelli WatchtowerFor us, this was not a difficult day, nor was it incredibly interesting. But there were many opportunities to reflect on Nature, the history of the area and to admire the hilltop Italian towns.
All-in-all this stage is essentially the last one before Rome with any real significant elevation changes, so we were grateful to have completed it and be close to Rome. The sign on the Casa di Riccardo says 62 kilometers left to go!
May your own Way of St. Francis from Poggio San Lorenzo to Ponticelli be filled with your own reflections! May you be the "happiest person ~ one who learned from nature the lesson of worship." Ultreia!
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