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Day Nineteen on the
Way of St. Francis ~
Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo, 21.5 Kilometers (13.4 Miles)
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The pilgrimage Way of St. Francis from
Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo
offers a long, pastoral journey on day nineteen. This long stretch steers you off the pavement and deep into the countryside, following a network of farm paths and gravel tracks. No quote could be more perfect for this day, than the one below!
"My idea of heaven still is to drive the gravel farm roads of Umbria and Tuscany, very pleasantly lost." ~ Frances Mayes, American Writer, Poet, Professor, Author of Under the Tuscan Sun
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We’re not a travel agency ~ we’re fellow pilgrims! (See About Us)
We've trekked Pilgrimage Routes Across Europe since 2014!
💬 We’ve:
- Gotten lost so you don’t have to. 😉
- Followed waymarks in the glowing sunlight, the pouring rain and by moonlight. ☀️🌧️🌙
- Slept in albergues, hostels & casa rurals. Ate and drank in cafés along the way. 🛌 😴
- Created comprehensive and downloadable GPS maps and eBook Guides, full of must-have information based on real pilgrimage travels. 🧭 🗺️
- Shared our complete journeys, step by step to help YOU plan your ultimate pilgrimage and walk with your own Heart and Soul. 💙✨
Every detail is from our own experiences. Just fellow pilgrims sharing the Way. We have added a touch of spirituality, heartfelt insights and practical guidance from the road ~ offering a genuine connection to the spirit of pilgrimage. Tap into the wisdom of seasoned pilgrims!
Ultreia and Safe Pilgrimage Travels, Caminante! 💫 💚 🤍
Indeed, day nineteen involves much less pavement walking. After the initial 2.1 kilometers through Rieti, the route remains off-road except for about five kilometers over several sections farther along. It is a much-needed physical relief for the pilgrim.
Maps and Stats, The Way of St. Francis, Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo
Below is our interactive Google map for the day. Because it is such a wonderful rural walk, you will need to come prepared for this stage. There are no services, so stock your pack in Rieti! (And even consider bringing food to cook for your dinner.)
Next is the elevation profile for the day. While there are no long sustained climbs like other days, there is a bit of strenuous work required in the latter part of the day, as you can see below.
There is a total of 639 meters (2097 feet) elevation gain and almost equal the amount of loss. But because the stage is not super long, it will feel more manageable.
Elevation Profile, Way of St. Francis, Rieti to Poggio San LorenzoPhoto-Rich Travelogue, The Way of St. Francis, Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo
Day nineteen begins at the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta in the center of town. See my article on Rieti (coming soon!) for more information on the incredible Duomo di Rieti!
From the cathedral, the route goes eastward along the Via Cintia for one block, past the same fountain in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II that you may have passed on your northern approach into Rieti on day eighteen.
After walking past the fountain, you will see the town hall building on your left in the plaza, the Comune di Rieti, below. This landmark is easy to spot with the typical flags flying out front. In front of the town hall is where you will turn to the right onto the Via Roma.
Rieti Town Hall, Comune di RietiThe pedestrian Via Roma, or Roman Way is one of the major shopping streets in central Rieti.
In one block, pass the Via Pellicceria, where a turn to the left will take you to one of my favorite pilgrim accommodations, and the best in Rieti, the La Terrazza Fiorita.
Continuing down the hill along the Via Roma, pass the Mondador Bookstore, in an old medieval church building and the Palazzo Vecchiarelli, just beside it, shown in the photo below. Inside the palace courtyard is where we ended our Rieti Underground tour. See my article on Rieti for photos and more information (coming soon).
Mondadori Bookstore and Palazzo VecchiarelliContinue along the Via Roma until you arrive at the modern bridge across the Velino River. Make sure you take a look over the bridge on the left hand side to view the remains of the old Roman bridge, below. Not much is left of it.
Ponte Romana Bridge RemainsAfter crossing the bridge, you will arrive in the Piazza Cavour. Immediately to your left, within the Plaza is the unmistakable Monumento alla Lira. This monument, pictured below, is a striking tribute to the former currency of Italy, before the Euro. (I wonder how many folks wish Italy were still on the lira!)
The monument was designed by artist Daniela Fusco and made from the melting of 2.2 million, two hundred lira coins! It was inaugurated on 1 March 2003.
Rieti was chosen for the monument because it represents the geographical center of Italy. The crowned female figure represents Italy, and she holds a large, one-lira coin. On the base are twelve coins that illustrate the history of the lira.
Monumento alla LiraTurn left immediately after the monument and walk along the south of the Piazza Cavour. Pass the Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo, pictured below, and a scupture of the archangel out front by Maestro Dino Morsani, not pictured. This church, which originally dated back to the 8th century, was almost completely bombed in WWII, and rebuilt in the 1950's. However, many historical works within the church can still be seen.
(You can now see these next photos were taken on the morning of our pilgrimage, not in the broad daylight of the day before!)
Pass the Chiesa di San Michele ArcangeloOne block after the Archangel Michael church, turn right onto the Via Borgo Sant'Antonio. You can see the turn in the photo above, just before the bright yellow building.
The Way of St. Francis from Rieto to Poggio San Lorenzo remains along this road for only a few blocks, when it leaves the main roadway to the left.
However, the route stays to the right on the wider road and continues along the Via Fonte Cottorella as it leaves the buildings of Rieti behind. The route now remains along the Via Fonte Cottorella, the Cottorella Fountain St. for not quite one kilometer.
A few meters farther along, the route passes under the SS4 highway.
After about 1.85 kilometers total from the start at the duomo, you will arrive at an open plaza-like area on the left, which contains this historic landmark: the Antiche Fonti di Cottorella, the Antique Cottorella Fountain, pictured below. Also, the Via Fonte Cottorella ends here at a T-intersection with the SP31 provincial road.
There are information boards all around this historically significant and renowned ancient spring, which is said to have healing properties. The mineral water from the spring is known for its diuretic properties and is used for drinking and bathing. However, I personally would not drink from this fountain by the looks of it, but there were no signs telling you not to.
Antiche Fonti di CottorellaAcross from the Cottorella Fountain is a large industrial-looking building that you see in the next photo, that actually bottles and sells the water! Plus there is a bar on the other side of the fountain called the Beer Palace, if the proper time for you and its opening hours align.
And by the Cottorella water plant is the very confusing Way of St. Francis signage that Rich is standing by. It certainly appeared to us that the sign was pointing to the right, with the white arrow indicating that a turn to the right was the route. And apparently this once was the route. When I checked my GPS tracks from the official Italian Via di Francesco website, it also indicated a right turn. So we turned right.
Confusing Signage Across from the Cottorella FountainHowever, if you turn right, you will be walking along the SP31 highway, then at the next intersection you must turn left onto an even busier highway, the SS4bis, without a pedestrian path or shoulder. Not good!
Pay attention here at this fountain, because the new and better way is to go to the left, along the SP31. It is not very busy in this section and you will only remain on it until just past the large industrial buildings of the water plant. And you can see below there is even a walkway along the shoulder.
When the walkway ends, this is your signal to look for a path to the right, dropping down into a field. There is a clear waymark sign under the "50" in the photo, however, this is the white and red sign for the Way of St. Benedict.
Right Turn Off SP31 HighwayImmediately after the turn, the yellow and blue strip on the post validates you are on the correct route for the Via di Francesco. I don't know why the official Italian VdF website hasn't updated this yet!
Drop Down Into Path Through FieldsAs you continue on this path through the field, you will cross an irrigation ditch on a bridge, see below.
Cross Bridge Through the FieldThis path only lasts about 1/3 kilometer, when it comes to the SS4bis highway, but instead of joining it, it swings to the left and parallel to it along a nice wide lane, shown below. The Esso gas station and a bar are up ahead.
Bar and the Esso Gas Station AheadWhen we arrived at the gas station after about 2.6 kilometers total from the start, we did not stop. Not only was it not far along enough into the day, but we had a very substantial breakfast at the Terrazza Fiorita. However, this is the very last bar close to the route until Poggio San Lorenzo, at the end of the stage!
From the Esso gas station, the Way of St. Francis will now follow the SS4bis highway for almost two kilometers, closely approximating it but on a wonderful separate pedestrian way. Sometimes it is a path and sometimes it is on a nice tractor lane. Often the trees hide your highway view, and often it is lined by a nice delineating split rail fence.
Pilgrim's Path by the SS4bis HighwayBy 4.4 kilometers total, the route leaves the SS4bis, at a white and red sign, pointing to the left towards Belmonte in Sabina and Rocca Sinibalda. Turn left onto this lane. Note the yellow and blue Via waymark on the fence as well.
Leave the SS4bis on a Lane to the LeftA few steps back from this intersection is the Agriturismo B&B La Selva, just to the west of the SS4bis, on a side road, if you wish to end your day. Look on the interactive map above for its exact location.
Next, as you do several 90-degree turns on the lane through the fields, you will soon realize that you will now follow an irrigation ditch on your left.
About 1/4 kilometer onward, come to a crossroads with a paved road and a covered bus stop. Cross over the road that leads to Belmonte in Sabina to the left, but continue on straight following the waymarks and the irrigation ditch. Do not follow the white and red sign pointing to the left - this is for the Way of St. Benedict, with the brown "tb" logo. This separate pilgrimage route now diverges from the Way of St. Francis.
I found this signage to be sufficiently confusing, that if we did not see a double yellow and blue stripe right away behind the bus stop, I may have gone left!
It is now a very nice walk along the path following the irrigation canal, through the fields, often delineated by a wood railing like below.
Following an Irrigation DitchPass the town of Maglianello Basso, that you can see in the distance on your right, but along the SS4bis. You will not walk through this town, and there are no services.
By about 5.3 kilometers into the day, pass a large industrial building on the left, the Pirotecnica Morsani fireworks manufacturing plant, shown below.
Pass Fireworks Plant - Pirotecnica MorsaniYou will continue to follow the path along the irrigation ditch for almost two kilometers from the bus stop.
After 6.5 kilometers, the path intersects with a tractor lane, seen below, and the Way is to the right, and back towards the SS4bis.
Tractor Lane Towards the SS4bis HighwayAt the next intersection, about 100 meters later, turn left onto another lane. A few meters later, you will once again turn left onto a lane that runs along the left side of SS4bis highway, see below.
This lane was rather overgrown when we passed through, and you can perhaps make out a go-cart track through the brush and fence on your left. This attraction has permanently closed, so when you arrive at the entrance to the "Kartodromo" after about 7.3 kilometers into the day, don't bother to chase down any services inside, even though the sign for a restaurant still exists.
Walking Along the SS4bis HighwayIt is only a few more steps past the entrance to the go-cart recreation area when once again, the Via di Francesco leaves the SS4bis to turn left onto another lane. Along the lane, pass this quaint homestead with an old flour mill wheel, pictured below.
Pass Homestead with Flour Mill WheelAfter passing the homestead, cross the irrigation ditch on a bridge, and immediately take a right onto another path along this same ditch, but now following it on the left side. The ditch is to the right.
Following the Irrigation Ditch on the Left Hand SideAfter 2/3 kilometer of walking along the ditch, the path becomes a two-track lane. 1/3 kilometer later, along the lane, come to a T-intersection, with a bridge to the right. This is where you turn left onto an improved gravel lane, pictured below. You will now leave the irrigation ditch for good, after 8.6 kilometers total for the Way of St. Francis from Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo.
Leave Irrigation Ditch for this Gravel LaneThe gravel lane takes a 90-degree turn to the right, now called the Via delle Moletta, and heads south once again. The Via becomes a two-track lane as it continues through the countryside. Just before the Via delle Moletta ends at a T-intersection, it becomes pavement.
It is after 9.9 kilometers that you will turn to the left at a T-intersection with the SP34 paved roadway.
You may finally notice that on this pavement, you have been slowly and steadily climbing. Over the 2.5 kilometers that you will remain on the SP34 roadway, the farther along you go, the steeper the climbing becomes.
2Km Marker Along the SP34By 12.4 kilometers total for the day, finally leave the pavement of the SP34 for this gravel lane, shown below. You will turn to the right, ending the ascent on the pavement. The small white sign identifies the road as the Via Turanense and the brown sign announces that a Roman bridge is ahead.
Right Turn Towards the Ponte SambucoThe Way of St. Francis from Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo now descends on this lane. Less than 1/4 kilometer later, leave the Via Turanense and turn right onto another forested gravel lane, the Via della Noce. The waymarking through here is good.
Next, you will climb a bit on this lane, up to a homestead, where we encountered an extremely friendly dog who rolled over on his back for a belly rub!
After the climb, and after about 3/4 kilometer on this lane, arrive at an open field, where you are directed to turn right.
After a few meters, cross a bridge through a swampy area and a few steps later you are directed to turn to the left. At this turn, you should see the historic bridge, the Ponte Sambuco, a few meters ahead.
In front of the Ponte Sambuco bridge is a picnic table where we sat under the trees for a nice long picnic lunch after 13.5 kilometers into the day. We knew that after the bridge, the big climb of the day was ahead.
There are information boards here, but only in Italian, to tell you about the history of this bridge, built in the 1st century. It was along the old Salt Road, the Via Salaria, from Rome through Rieti and to the Adriatic coast, a major trade route for moving salt from the marshes along the Tiber River. Salt was a highly valued commodity for food preservation in Roman times.
Here is a photo of the bridge. It is quite long and has a major archway, through where the water flows, now only a trickle.
Ponte SambucoThe Via walks along the top of the bridge as it continues southward, pictured below, and begins the strenuous climb for the day.
Cross the Ponte SambucoYou will now have 172 meters (572 feet) of elevation gain to accomplish over the next 2.3 kilometers. Not horrible.
After the bridge, the gravel lane will continue, for the next 1.3 kilometers. It is a very nice forested walk.
Forested Walk After the Ponte SambucoWhen the forest opens up to fields and the Way encounters buildings and takes a big bend to the right to follow a fence line, you will soon come to a T-intersection with the paved Via Salaria Vecchia (Old Salt Road). Turn left onto this historic road.
You could turn to the right instead, if you were in dire need of a bar towards the town of Ornaro Basso. The Bar Regina is 1/2 kilometer off-route. I personally never like to take any chances that only one bar in a town is open, especially since our walking day was a Sunday!
Left Turn Onto the Via Salaria VecchioYou will remain on this paved road for the next, 1.1 kilometers, climbing the whole way. There is no pilgrim's shoulder on this road and it had quite a bit of traffic on it! The cars were driving quite fast, so stay alert through this section!
By 15.8 kilometers into the day, you will reach the top of the first climb, when you come to the area called Colonnetta, at this crossroads, shown below. There is a Roman mile marker, in the corner with a fence around it at this intersection, called a miliaria, see photo below.
Roman Miliaria in Colonetta at CrossroadsHead straight across the intersection and onto a paved secondary road, the Via Quinzia. You will now begin a strong descent through the countryside over the next 1.1 kilometers.
Within a few meters the pavement turns to gravel and about 2/3 kilometer later, you will pass this distinct ruined building.
Pass Ruined Building Along the Via QuinziaWhen the strong descent ends, you will come to this crossroads, below, at another ruined building with an arched doorway. Walk straight through and onto another forest lane.
Crossover at Another Ruined BuildingTake a final descent on this lane as it drops into the deeper forest. Pass a gate to the left and continue onward, descending into a drainage with a small metal bridge across it.
After crossing this little metal bridge and after about 17.5 kilometers total for the day the second climb begins. This climb is not as strenuous, with less than 100 meters of elevation gain over the next 1.2 kilometers.
After less than one kilometer, the lane comes to a top of a hill, when it intersects with a paved road. You will see this brown sign at the intersection, shown below, stating that to the right is the Madonna dei Penitenti. This is not the way to go. Instead turn left onto the pavement.
Crossroads with the Road to Madonna dei PenitentiAfter about 400 meters and about 18.7 kilometers total, you will reach the second top of the day when you arrive at the gate shown below, the donation-based Casa di Ospitalita' Suore Ancelle del Sacro Cuore di Gesu,' (Sisters Servants of the Sacred Heart of Jesus). They have only a few beds and take pilgrims by reservation only, (+39 0765 73 50 17).
Casa di Ospitalita' Suore Ancelle del Sacro Cuore di Gesu'Walk several meters past the Casa di Ospitalita and you will see the entrance sign for the next town of Torricella In Sabina. However, there is a lane to the right, just before this sign, where the Via di Francesco turns.
You will now be walking on a pleasant tractor lane for the next 1.2 kilometers. After an initial short climb on the tractor lane, begin the strong descent into Poggio San Lorenzo.
After 20.1 kilometers, the pleasant lane comes to an intersection with a paved road, the Località Colli. A few steps later, pass the Welcome to Poggio San Lorenzo sign. There is still about 1.5 kilometers left until the center of town.
Pass a water fountain a few meters later. Continue the descent into town along the Località Colli. The road takes a hairpin turn as it descends to a T-intersection with the Via Quinzia. There is a small shrine in the corner of the intersection. Also on this corner is a sign for the donation-based Casa del Pellegrino (+39 371 653 8062).
If you were to go straight, you would arrive at the Agriturismo, also being advertised at the corner, the Agriturismo Ristorante Santa Giusta (+39 0765 884166).
However, the Via turns to the left for the final meters into town. After about 1/4 kilometer, pass this wonderful Way of St. Francis mural.
Way of St. Francis Mural, Entering Poggio San LorenzoAnd soon, you are entering the center of town.
Entering the Center of Poggio San LorenzoAs you near the main square, pass the restaurant and agriturismo of the Castello di Carpo Farfa on your right, who make special agricultural products. The restaurant and museum can be visited by reservation only as the sign declares. Next pass the alimentari, which was closed on this Sunday.
Enter the main square, shown below, the end of the stage, for this day nineteen on the Way of St. Francis from Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo!
Notice the flags flying over the town hall, in the right side of the photo, and just next to it is a small door with a big brown arrow pointing to it on the right side! This is the town's donation-based ostello, the Casa del Pellegrino di Poggio San Lorenzo, with 16 dormitory beds, a kitchen, laundry facilities and linens provided. This is a very nicely-maintained place! The kitchen is well-stocked for breakfast, with coffee, milk and croissants and also stocked with condiments for cooking. If you take advantage of the breakfast, do your laundry, or use their linens, please donate generously!
And also of great importance, is the Bar Forever, behind Rich in the center of the photo. This is where you will pick up the keys to the pilgrim's hostel.
Main Square, Poggio San LorenzoAlso note on the left side of the photo above, the 19th century town church, the Chiesa di San Lorenzo Martire. This church was totally rebuilt after time and humidity took its toll, except for the travertine portal. A church has been on this site since the 6th century. There are some nice frescoes inside the church, if you get a chance to have a look inside.
Also in the photo below, just to the right of the stairway by the fountain, is another ancient Roman mile marker!
And because it was the third Sunday of the month of September, the town celebrates the Madonna, with a morning parade (which we did not see), and a band playing festive music in the square in the evening, in front of the 1893 historic town fountain (non potable water). They even had tables full of desserts and beverages to enjoy while we listened to the band.
Santa Maria Celebrations in the Main SquareBecause we arrived into Poggio San Lorenzo on a Sunday, and a holiday at that, there was only one restaurant open, the pizza place next to the Casa del Pellegrino. The Forever Bar was open, but it had no food except for snacks. We had no food of our own to cook. (The hostel's kitchen may have some miscellaneous foods to cook, if you are lucky.)
We had to wait until 8:30 if we wanted pizza! As Americans, a late dinner is never our choice. We actually asked the pizza place if she could just make us a sandwich. No, but she offered us a "white" pizza. Ok, we would take it.
The foccacia bread that she used for the "pizza" must have been days old, because it was so dry, and the prosciutto (which I don't usually eat) was so thin, we could hardly choke down the "white" pizza.
We took the food back to the hostel and put lots of olive oil on the bread, so we could get it down. Oh well! At least we were able to eat at 7:30 and our bellies were full - sort of, as I discarded about half of my portion.
My advice to you, if you arrive into this small town on a Sunday, is to bring your own food to cook, after you have stocked up in Rieti. Then you won't be disappointed like we were! Such is the life of a pilgrim, isn't it? We always take what we can get.
Reflections, The Way of St. Francis, Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo
For me, this was neither a difficult day, nor a long day, nor an exceptionally beautiful day. It was merely a day that needed to be completed. And also a day that needed to be accepted.
We did have Aperol spritzes and potato chips at the Bar Forever to celebrate our arrival in the middle of the afternoon. That always makes me smile!
The small town of Poggio San Lorenzo was indeed delightful on their holiday to the Madonna. The celebrations were a nice ending to our pilgrimage day, even if it did ultimately end with dry white pizza.
Salutation
May your own Way of St. Francis from Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo be a delightful one as you walk along the farm paths and lanes. And hopefully you will not get lost! Ultreia!
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