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Our Way of St. Francis from Ponticelli to Monterotondo on day twenty-one was a very long, and for me, a somewhat boring day on open gravel lanes and mostly quiet country roads, with few points of interest and few towns.
"Chi va piano, va sano e va lontano: Who goes slowly, goes safely and goes far." ~ Italian Proverb

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The above Italian Proverb is perfect for this day. Go slowly and go steadily and you will get the journey done. One foot in front of the other.
Below is my interactive Google map for day twenty-one. Please note that I have included the orange alternative for day twenty, on the map, since it joins the main, blue route on day twenty-one in Acquaviva, 8.0 kilometers into the stage. For the entire Way of St. Francis route, to see the bigger picture you can click here.
There are few services on this long day, so be sure you have a pack full of food, which you hopefully stocked in Ponticelli.
Because it is a long day, some pilgrims choose to stay in Montelibretti after about 13 kilometers and break this stage into two. Or, the second option, after about 20.5 kilometers, is to stay in the Palombara Sabina area. This will shorten this stage by 8.5 kilometers, but lengthen day twenty-two by 8.5 kilometers. This would bring the 18.5 kilometers of day twenty-two to a total of about 27 kilometers. This is because there are no practical places to stay after Monterotondo, until Monte Sacro, 18.5 kilometers farther. 8.5 kilometers (Palombara Sabina to Monterotondo) + 18.5 (Monterotondo to Monte Sacro) = 27 kilometers.
For us, since we did not want to add another day to the journey by splitting this stage into two, the difference between 27 and 29 kilometers was not that significant, so we decided to do the longer stage first and get it over with. Besides, Monterontondo is a really nice town to spend the evening.
As you can see in the interactive map, there are cafés available after 8.0 kilometers in Acquaviva, after 12 kilometers there is the pleasant Bar Marco in Montelibretti, and perhaps after 16.6 kilometers at La Muraccia rural restaurant. However La Muraccia does not open until 12:30, so this may not work for you. We arrived one hour too early to get a meal there.
Essentially, plan on the final 17 kilometers to have no services at all.
As you can see by the elevation profile, this is a long, generally trending downhill day. The uphills are there, but they are neither long nor difficult. The days of significant altitude climbs are now over.
However, there is still a total elevation gain of 761 meters (2497 feet), so combined with the distance, you will need a lot of energy for this stage.
Elevation Profile, Way of St. Francis, Ponticelli to Monterotondo, Day Twenty-OneWe left Ponticelli at daybreak, after enjoying a provided continental breakfast at the donation-based La Casa Di Riccardo, (+39 351 780 3475). As noted on day twenty, Riccardo knows how to take care of pilgrims! Send him a WhatsApp to reserve your spot.
It is good that we had made our own breakfast because the town was fast asleep as we passed through along the main street at daybreak.
Leaving Ponticelli at DawnFrom the main square by the Bar Pizzeria La Torre, turn to the right, passing the prominent corner steps and the bar. After the turn, pass the town watchtower, pictured at the end of day twenty.
Proceed down a small hill to leave Ponticelli. Climb back out shortly, on this semi-paved lane, below, coming to a T-intersection after about 100 meters of climbing. Turn to the left in front of the wall seen in the photo, to continue along another paved lane.
Uphill Towards T-IntersectionWalk for another few minutes, coming to another T-intersection, and stay high and to the right. You are now joining the Via San Martino, still maintaining a slight climb.
After about 150 meters along the Via San Martino, look for a turn to the right. You will finish the first small climb a few meters after the turn as you can see in the photo below. You can also see that it was raining ever so slightly and the pavement was wet.
Right Turn, Up the HillHead down the hill from the crest, rounding a big bend. After only another few minutes walking, look for a turn to the left, onto a country tractor lane, called the Località Valle Vallone.
This lane descends initially for a few meters, then takes a big bend and begins a second climb. Walking along the lane is a pleasant stroll through mostly olive groves. It was only misting as we walked, so it was fresh and enjoyable.
Uphill Lane, Leaving PonticelliCrest the second hill when you come to a crossroads with the paved Via Salaria Vecchio, after 1.2 kilometers into day twenty-one on the Way of St. Francis from Ponticelli to Monterotondo.
Cross the paved roadway and join the Via Vallevara as it goes downhill on the other side. Within a few steps, you will arrive at a Y-intersection, where the Way stays to the left and continues on another gravel lane.
By 1.6 kilometers, arrive at the first historic site, the 2nd Century Roman Ponte del Diavolo or Devil's Bridge National Monument.
The first view you see of the bridge, below, is quite unimpressive, and thought, "What's the big deal." Well, just walk around to the back side and this is indeed a big deal!
Arrive at Ponte del DiavoloFor scale, in the photo below, that's little me at the far right end of the bridge, in my white poncho. The bridge is massive. It was built from large rectangular stone blocks stacked without mortar. Wow.
The bridge, with one side almost completely covered up in silt and dirt, was part of the ancient Salt Road, the Via Salaria. This road was a major transport route for salt, from Rome to the Adriatic Sea.
Ponte del DiavoloAfter admiring this massive Roman engineering feat, continue along the pleasant gravel lane for the next 1.4 kilometers, continuing down the hill through olive groves once again.
Continuing Downhill Gravel LaneWhen the gravel lane ends, join the pavement on the fringe of the town of Poggio Corese after about 3.1 kilometers from the start. The Via never actually enters the town, but skirts it on the southwestern corner.
After joining the pavement, notice the small shrine on your left, the Altarino di San Francesco. You can just see the flowers in the corner of the shrine, in the photo below.
Entering Poggio CoreseA few steps past the shrine, come to a T-intersection with another paved road, the SP40 and turn to the right.
A few short meters later, look closely for an overgrown path to the left. (Perhaps this may be clearer at other times of the year.) Turn left onto it.
Taking the Overgrown Path to the LeftRemain on this path for only a few meters, coming to a T-intersection again, with a paved road. Turn to the left.
Wind around along this quiet paved road for the next 3/4 kilometer. You will begin a noticeable small climb during the last 1/2 kilometer. You may also notice a fortified town on the hill on your left as you walk uphill, see photo below. This is Nerola, and the Way will not walk through it.
Fortified Nerola Comes Into ViewAt the top of this small climb, arrive at a crossroads after the 3/4 kilometer, and a total of 4.4 kilometers into the day, into a hamlet called Pitirolo. There are no services here. Stay straight on through this intersection and onto another narrow paved lane called Località Ferrari. You will be walking on a nice downhill.
The castle on the hill of Nerola looms above this hamlet, to the left. It once housed a hotel and restaurant, but is now closed.
Continue onward on the lane for less than 1/2 kilometer, past the prominent street to the right called the Via Fonte Calamaro, and at the next intersection a few meters later, make a right-hand turn onto another quiet, unnamed paved lane.
If you were to stay straight here, you would encounter the Agriturismo Il Bagolaro, a few meters onward.
You will notice signs throughout this next section, announcing that you are entering "Azienda Faunistico Venatoria, Comunale Nerola." This essentially translates as the "Nerola municipal wildlife and hunting company." Interesting - a protected area, I gather.
A few meters onward, the paved lane turns to a tractor lane, with a grassy median, see below.
Grassy Tractor LaneThis pleasant walk, on lanes alternating between 2-tracks and semi-pavement, will last for almost 3.0 kilometers, and all the way to the next town of Acquaviva. Notice the downhill trend. It feels lovely.
Semi-Paved Lane Towards AcquavivaNot quite 3/4 kilometer along this lane, there will be a well-marked turn to the right, to continue on semi-paved land.
And about another 2/3 kilometer later, the Way will make a second right turn, at the shrine pictured below.
2nd Right-Hand Turn at ShrineIf you were to stay straight at the shrine instead, a few meters down the road is the Agriturismo GQ Resort.
After the turn at the shrine, continue onward, climbing a small hill, for about 1/3 kilometer, when you come to a T-intersection with the Via Fonte Calamaro. Turn left. Notice a sign directing you back to the GQ Resort.
About 3/4 kilometer later, walk downhill to a 5-point intersection, where the Way stays straight to pass a large industrial farm on the left. You are getting close to the town of Acquaviva.
Continue another 1/3 kilometer, when you arrive at a T-intersection with the SP636, the Via Maremmana. Turn right onto the 2-lane roadway and within a few more minutes walking you will arrive at the main intersection of Acquaviva, after a total of 7.9 kilometers on the Way of St. Francis from Ponticelli to Monterotondo.
The Way goes to the left at this intersection with the SP40, see the photo below, and onto the Old Salt Road, once again, the Via Salaria Vecchia.
Arriving Into Central AcquavivaAcquaviva has all the services that you need. If you turn to the right, there is a bakery (mostly just bread) within a few steps. If you go farther, you will see a strip-mall type of building. In it is a Carrefour supermarket, and at the far end is the Gluck Pub where we had a nice break of caffé lattes and wonderful pies.
Also, right across from the intersection is a fruit and vegetable market.
After the left turn in the center of town, walk only about 100 meters, and look for a Y-intersection, where the Way turns to the left, off the main road. I thought it was a bit difficult to see the faded waymark for this turn and we almost missed it, see below.
Turn Left Onto the Via Antica QuinziaIf you are walking the orange alternative day twenty route from Farfa, it is at this intersection where the alternative joins the main route from the town of Colle San Pietro to the west.
Turn left onto this secondary road, called the Via Antica Quinzia. The Way remains on this nice paved single-lane road for the next 1.7 kilometers. And it is all downhill!
Idyllic Country Lane WalkLook for views of the town Colle San Pietro on the hill to your right. The Way does not go to this town.
When the Way bends to the left, it passes this historic water fountain and continues straight onward.
Historic Water FountainYou will soon see expansive views of the Latium plain (currently known as Lazio) on your right, where Rome resides, and formed by the Tiber River. Getting closer now!
After about 9.7 kilometers total, leave the narrow paved lane and turn right onto this tractor lane at this nice gate.
Right Turn Onto Tractor Lane at GateThe lane continues downhill for about another 600 meters, when it arrives at a crossroads with a paved road, and crosses over it.
From the crossroads, after a total of 10.4 kilometers into the day, the Way drops steeply into the drainage shown below. This is now the end of the long 6k downhill since Pitirolo.
Downhill Ends at this DrainageAfter the small drainage, continue along the unpaved lane, beginning the next climb of 425 meters over the next 1.6 kilometers.
Arrive at a T-intersection about 1/4 kilometer later and turn left onto a semi-paved lane, called the Via Frainile.
As you walk along this lane, after not quite 11 kilometers, beautiful views of Montelibretti come into focus on the hill to your left. As mentioned above, many pilgrims choose to stay here to break up this stage.
Montelibretti on the Hill AheadBy about 11.5 kilometers total, arrive at a crossroads with the paved SP20b. Continue straight and onto the single-lane road, following the sign towards Montelibretti. You are steadily ascending along this next 1/2 kilometer, however, it feels more flat.
Arrive at a crossroads, and turn right onto the quiet, paved Via Roma for your final approach into Montelibretti. The next kilometer into the south side of town is steeper climbing. We put our heads down, knowing that the friendly Bar Marco was waiting for us at the top of the climb!
As you reach the buildings of the town, climb up to a T-intersection, turn to the left and the bar is ahead a few steps. You are essentially at the top of this climb at the Bar Marco and after about 12.9 kilometers total for day twenty-one on the Way of St. Francis from Ponticelli to Monterotondo.
If you are not stopping at the bar, the Way turns to the right onto the Via Vignacce in front of the bar. We stopped, of course, for another caffé latte, with some sugar, which I usually don't take, for the extra boost.
Rich Heading for the Bar Marco, MontelibrettiAfter the turn onto the Via Vignacce, walk down the hill through town and come to the first major intersection, with 5 roads about 1/4 kilometer later. Take the second right turn onto the Via Valle Spaziani (essentially straight ahead).
You will remain on this road for the next 1.4 kilometers, leaving town and walking through the countryside filled with olive groves. This is a nice and long downhill run!
Notice the grand estates on the hills to your right as you walk along. Pass an abandoned one on your right along the way.
Ruined Estate, Way of St. Francis, Ponticelli to MonterotondoBy 14.6 kilometers, come to a left turn onto the crumbling pavement of the Via Colle Mortaleto a single lane road. After about 1/3 kilometer the Way becomes a gravel tractor lane and the elevation flattens out for a while.
After about 1/2 along this lane, and after 15.4 kilometers total for the day, the Way makes a right turn followed by a left turn at the large tree seen below, a few meters later.
Left Turn Ahead Along Another Country LaneThe lane now becomes more rough and in our case, muddy, as it heads towards a large farm that the map identifies as the Selva Grande. The lane becomes nothing more than an unimproved farm lane as you walk along. You will cross through and skirt a patch of trees. The trees are on your right and the farm fields are on your left, see photo below.
Skirting the Selva GrandeNext, the lane makes a big bend in front of the farm, and joins another more improved tractor lane.
Walk down the hill along the improved lane and arrive at a T-intersection with the paved Via Vecchia Nomentana after 16.6 kilometers total for day twenty-one.
A few steps after the turn, arrive at La Muraccia restaurant. We were looking forward to sitting down for a nice meal, however we arrived at 11:40 and unfortunately the restaurant did not open until 12:30. Bummer.
After La Muraccia along the Via Vecchia Nomentana, you must walk along the open pavement for the next 1.6 kilometers. It is not exactly an unpleasant walk, but you will have to climb again, this time for almost a kilometer, with an elevation gain of 70 meters (230 feet). If it is hot, you will feel it.
Along the way there are incredible estates which you can admire, as you would imagine, so close to Rome. I called this "estate country."
Estate Country Along the Via Vecchia NomentanaNear the end of the Via Vecchia Nomentana, you will pass the giant produce warehouse of the Terre Sabine estate on your left.
Just beyond the warehouse is the T-intersection with the Strada dell'Osteria di Moricone (SP22b) after 18.2 kilometers total for the day. For some reason there is an exit sign for Montelibretti on this corner, as well as an old decrepit water fountain. I would not trust this fountain for drinking water.
The roadway of the Strada dell'Osteria di Moricone you must now follow for 2.3 kilometers is windy, busy with traffic, and essentially, not a very pleasant walk. But the pilgrim must do it. At least it is essentially downhill!
Make sure you face traffic as you walk along, for your safety, because the road is not that wide! Pass the Agriturismo F.lli Abbondanza Fusi (farm produce only - no accommodations).
Pass the Agriturismo F.lli Abbondanza FusiContinue along the Strada dell'Osteria di Moricone for these two-ish kilometers, until arriving at a major crossroads with the SP35d where the prior road now ends after 20.5 kilometers total. Continue straight ahead onto a narrow lane, called the Via Santa Maria delle Camere, see below.
You may have noticed the large umbrella trees that are now appearing everywhere. They are the most stately trees!
Cross Over the SP35d Onto Narrow LaneAbout 100 meters after joining the gravel lane, look for the turn off to the left, through an olive grove and to the Il Rifugio di Noi, (Simona, +39 349 424 5734) a pilgrim's rural home that is donation-based. Here is the small sign, showing the turn.
Sign for the Rifugio di NoiThe Way follows the narrow lane, now mercifully with very little traffic for one kilometer, dropping down to a T-intersection with another lane, now dirt.
This new lane continues onward towards the next landmark, the Torre della Fiora, a 13th century watchtower ruin. You can see the tower ahead shortly after the turn, looming above the plain.
After coming abreast of the watchtower, at about 22.1 kilometers total, there is an interesting modern sculpture, one for which I wasn't so fond, see below. It is of an abstract human couple, called the Grotta Marozza - definitely eye-catching.
Sculpture and the Torre della FioraBy the sculpture, the road takes a bend to the left and southward. Walk up a small hill, staying straight at the intersection at the top, and where the road is no longer paved.
Walk down the hill on the other side, under a huge power line and look for the next turn to the right, onto another lane.
Continue down the hill, crossing a drainage, where someone left a nice swing for you to rest and reflect on your journey!
Swing for Reflection, Way of St. Francis, Ponticelli to MonterontondoNext, walk up the hill from the drainage, gaining 60 meters of elevation over the next kilometer. When you shift to a downhill trajectory, within a few minutes you will join a wider, improved dirt lane, by turning to the right, just before this lovely building, below, after about 24 kilometers total.
There is a small parking area at the juncture and signs indicating that the way we just came is the beginning of a walking road only (a "sendero" or path), along the Way of St. Francis!
Join Improved LaneShortly after joining the improved lane, the road turns to pavement as you walk along a more level area. Definitely welcome at the end of this long stage!
There will be some elevation changes on day twenty-two, but the major work of the Way of St. Francis pilgrimage is over now, as you head for the plain of Latium (Lazio). As the terrain shifts, you can feel the energy of Rome inviting you onward!
Open Plain WalkingAs you walk along, you can't help but notice the Apennines to your left, still rising strongly above the plain, and the fortifications of the actual town of Palombara Sabina way off in the distance. This will be your last views on this pilgrimage, of a fortified town high on a hill in the mountains!
Palombara Sabina Fortifications in the DistanceAbout 1.5 kilometers later and after a total of about 25.5 kilometers for the day, arrive at a T-intersection with the SP25a, photo below. You will see the buildings of the outskirts of Monterotondo ahead! Also notice a walker's lane to the right side of the road behind the brown guardrail. This is your way forward.
T-Intersection with the SP25aThe Via planners have created a safe walking path for the pilgrim, into the city. A very interesting approach to the city is ahead!
Take the pilgrim's path along the roadway about 1/4 kilometer, until it ends at a parking area. Look for this gate, ahead on the right, with a road/path continuing onward up the hill. There will be waymark yellow/blue strips on the poles of the gate. This is the Way.
Turn Right onto Another Pilgrim's Path at GateFollow this clearly marked pathway, at times overgrown as it climbs a bit to parallel the SP25a, photo below.
Pilgrim's Path Towards MonterotondoThen a few meters later, it bends sharply to the left to take a set of stairs back down to meet the highway, by an overpass with a motorway. Turn right and follow the sidewalk through the tunnel and under the motorway. After the tunnel, look for the path leaving the road to the right, taking steps back up from the SP25a to parallel the motorway above. Interesting!
Continue to follow the path as it bends to the left, away from the motorway and now joins an old paved road along the right side. Take this road/path for another 1/4 kilometer until you arrive at a picnic area delineated by a split rail fence with a footbridge on the other side. Below is a photo of this resting area just before the bridge, where another pilgrim is hanging out.
Cross a Canal on Green Metal BridgeThe footbridge leads you onto the continuation of the hidden pilgrim's path along the SP25a - lovely!
Pilgrim's Path Continues Parallel to the SP25aWhen the pathway ends, you will join the SP25a, and walk along its right side until you arrive at the intersection with the SP25b at a roundabout. The objective is to turn left onto the SP25b, however you cannot cross over safely to the left before the roundabout.
You must go to the right instead, to join the SP25b, then a few meters later look for the first crosswalk to cross it to the left. On the other side, turn left again to pick up a bike path that takes you back and through the same roundabout, crossing the SP25a to continue straight and along the SP25b. It is helpful to know that you need to follow the split rail fencing along the bike path!
This was all very confusing to us, and I didn't think the yellow and blue stripes helped very much! You will know you are going the correct way when you see the large gas station ahead on your left. You have less than 2km to go!
There is a café by the gas station, the first one after your arrival into the city, if you need a break. Depending on where your accommodation is, it could be another three or more kilometers left to walk. I was pretty hungry by the time we arrived by the café and I would have been happier if we had stopped. However, it wasn't easy to cross over to the other side, and I thought I could easily push on for a few more kilometers.
The Way follows the nice bike path on a mild upward incline for about 1.2 kilometers, until arriving at a large intersection.
Follow Bike Path Into MonterotondoAt the intersection, keep along the bike path, where the guardrail forces you to stay to the right and through the intersection, taking a strong bend to join the SP22a.
After passing through the intersection, you will come to the welcome to Monterotondo sign, below. The guardrail is now gone.
Welcome to Monterotondo SignJust before reaching the sign, look to your left and across the street and you will notice the yellow/blue strips on the other side. This is where you leave the bike path and cross over to the left side of the road. Be careful here! The traffic is sufficient and we had to make a dash across it, with no crosswalk.
There is not much of a shoulder on the left side of the road, but it is only a few meters where you won't have a designated pilgrim pathway. And when you do reach the pathway, it is surprisingly undeveloped for such a large town as Monterotondo!
Stay to the left as you pass through the next large roundabout on the rough pathway. There is a large Conad Supermarket on your left by the roundabout if you need supplies.
Walk up the final hill into town, on the now-asphalt walkway and arrive at the end of the stage, the eastern gate to the city, the 20th century Arco di Fausto Cecconi after 28.9 kilometers, shown below. Remember that when you arrive here, that you are only on the eastern end of the central area.
Arco di Fausto CecconiIf you are heading to the Parish of Santa Maria Maddalena, Pilgrim's House, (+39 0690 626060 or 340 350 2589) it is another 2/3 kilometer onward to the west, by the Chiesa Santa Maria Maddalena, church in the center of town. The parish offers friendly pilgrim hospitality, 15 pilgrim beds and perhaps a home-cooked meal, all on a donation basis. Check with them for more information, via WhatsApp or email: parrocchia@duomosantamariamaddalena.it.
If you are heading to the Convento Frati Cappuccini, (+39 06 9062 7534) turn left at the gate and the convent is another 400 meters up the hill to the south. Make sure you reserve ahead, and understand that this is a very basic accommodation, one blog stating it is a bit rundown, but the priests are friendly. Unfortunately they have no details regarding the pilgrim accommodation on their website. It is best to send them a WhatsApp for more details or email them at info@fraticappuccini.it.
As you would imagine, a city the size of Monterotondo has many accommodations, but surprisingly not many inexpensive ones. You can search on the Booking.com Monterotondo page to find current deals. Some of the more economical places in the center of town is the Fralina House, the Albergo Dei Leoni and the Alla Quercia - Centro Storico.
We stayed at the charming A Casa di Sasha, (+39 328 37 60 262). Rita's bed and breakfast is inexpensive, comfortable and on the east side of town, for a quick start in the morning. She is really, really sweet, but doesn't speak a lick of English, so come with your translator app if you stay here. I highly recommend her hospitality! And the continental breakfast is substantial.
We arrived late, for us, into the Casa di Sasha, and I was so hungry (not hangry quite yet) that at 5:30 in the afternoon, the MacDonald's across the street was just too tempting for me to resist! I just wanted food right then, and MacDonald's was certainly fast and easy. However, I felt the burgers here were actually better than in the USA, but it may have only been due to my overwhelming hunger. Ha ha!
This day was an energetic one for me, and most likely for a lot of pilgrims. In retrospect, perhaps we should have stopped at Il Rifugio di Noi after 20.5 kilometers, since the elevation gain on the stage after Monterotondo is not as significant.
But indeed, I was happy to have the longer stage completed. The plan was to only get to Monte Sacro on day twenty-two, 18 kilometers away. Then, just a short 15km hop to St. Peter's to complete the Way. Apparently, many pilgrims go from Monterotondo all the way to St. Peter's, for a 34 kilometer final stage. Me - I am just not willing to do that distance any more.
Plus, we decided to stay in a comfortable apartment in Monte Sacro for two nights, busing back from the center of Rome after the completion of our pilgrimage and after more touring. It was more economical than in the center of Rome. We stayed near the train station for easy access to the Rome airport at the end of our journey.
Other than my incredible hunger at the end of the stage, I did well on this stage. However, I was quite exhausted, for sure, and barely could keep my head up to meet other pilgrims for a glass of wine and dessert that evening in town (after my "dinner" at MacDonald's). And I had no energy left to look around town, other than to see the Chiesa Santa Maria Maddalena. This is so unlike me, because Monterotondo is a really nice town.
May your own Way of St. Francis from Ponticelli to Monterotondo be a success, because indeed, "Who goes slowly, goes safely and goes far." A wise Italian Proverb, for sure.
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