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Camino Sanabrés, A Laza to Vilar de Barrio, Day Ten, 19.2 Kilometers (11.9 Miles)

Our day ten on the Camino Sanabres, from A Laza to Vilar de Barrio was another fabulous day of walking on beautiful mountain paths, and very little pavement. The five compadres carried on as a community for this shorter day. 

Quote for Day Ten on the Camino Sanabrés, A Laza to Vilar de Barrio

"The contemplative dimension of walking comes through my presence to the world around me and to what is moving through me as I walk. I listen for the ways the divine is speaking through the world. I listen to my own heart beating more loudly because of the vigor of my movement. I listen for the ways that new ideas arise in this space." ~ Christine Valters Paintner, Benedictine Oblate and Online Abbess

What a wonderful quote to contemplate the power of walking. This is what I try to achieve, whenever I walk, and especially when I am on a pilgrimage. This quote is perfect for any and every day that you walk!

Maps and Stats of Day Ten on the Camino Sanabrés, A Laza to Vilar de Barrio

Here is our interactive Google map from our GPS tracks for the day's walk, below.

There may be a pastry shop in Soutelo Verde, 4K down the road but it has erratic hours, so the only real services are in Alberguería, a bar and albergue, 12 kilometers into the day. There are fountains along the way where you can replenish your water if needed. 

The second albergue is in Vilar de Barrio, where we ended our day. Many pilgrims choose to extend this stage for 33 kilometers to Xunqueira de Ambía where there is another municipal albergue and a private. See day eleven for this information. Our group was not interested in such a lengthy day.

Notice that the day's walk starts out flat, then a climb of about 500 meters (1640 feet) over about eight kilometers, and ends in a nice downhill five kilometer jaunt into Vilar de Barrio. This climb will feel strenuous, starting from the section leaving Tamicelas at about seven kilometers and persisting until several kilometers after Alberguería.

There are several flat areas, interspersed in the climbing, where you will have brief reprieves from the uphill. 

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Photo-Rich Travelogue for Day Ten on the Camino Sanabrés, A Laza to Vilar de Barrio

Our day began after a lovely self-service continental breakfast that was included in the price of the Pensión Casa Blanco Conde. We started this stage where we left off at the roundabout, pictured at the end of day nine, by the Tourist Information Office. 

It is a left turn on the opposite side of the traffic circle onto the Rúa dos Zapateiros, just before the elevated park area. 

You will walk a few meters and take the first right turn onto the Rúa da Picota, shown below. Walk a few more steps to the Bar A Picota, in the background of the photo.

If you are coming from the municipal albergue in Laza, you will need to walk south and back to the center of town the way you came or find the narrow passage lane to the Bar A Picota.

From the bar, it is a left turn to continue along the very quaint and narrow Rúa da Picota, shown next. The photo shows the route, straight onward at the first intersection. 

About 100 meters later, there is a historic cross, below, where you continue straight through at this intersection. The street is now named appropriately, the Rúa do Cruceiro. The town crosses and churches always serve as a reminder for me, that this is a spiritual journey, if you desire it to be so. 

After about 1/2 kilometer from the cross, the Rúa do Cruceiro merges with the OU-113 after walking about 3/4 kilometer from the Information Office at the roundabout. This was to be a common theme on day ten, as you continue to follow the path of this road throughout the day.

It is for about another 2.4 kilometers from the merge that you need to walk along the OU-113, first on a nice pedestrian sidewalk on the right side of the highway, then a brief diversion off-highway to the right, to cross the Río Támega and finally on the pedestrian sidewalk to the left side of the highway.

At kilometer 3.2, you will see a yellow arrow directing you to the left, onto a side road and towards the next small town of Soutelo Verde. In the photo below, you can see the nice wide concrete shoulder that is provided for the pilgrimage traveler to walk upon. 

Shortly after entering the village, pass a historic covered water fountain, not pictured. Below is a section of street through more of town. 

Several meters later we crossed a second stream, and were greeted by the ancient little Chapel of Sorrows, the Capela de los Dolores, shown below. I imagine that you could leave several of your sorrows here if you desired. 

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After the little diversion through town, we joined the OU-113 again. This time it was only for a bit more than 100 meters, when we spied this sign, shown in the photo below, taking us to the right and onto a road toward the next hamlet of Tamicelas. We were at about 4.1 kilometers into the day at this turn.

The Way is so very peaceful through this valley. It was a good time to let the power of the Spirit talk to you and move through you! You need to enjoy this lovely two kilometer valley walk into Tamicelas, as it is about to change!

By the time you reach this stone fountain, at the entryway to Tamicelas, approximately 6.2 kilometers into the day, the long climb of the day has begun. 

Here is Miguel at the entrance sign to town about 150 meters past the fountain and after about 6.4 kilometers into your day on the Camino Sanabrés from A Laza to Vilar de Barrio.

The Way is up and to the left, essentially missing town. Tamicelas is on a hillside, where you will begin the climb up and onto a ridge top on the way to the next town of Alberguería. It is about a 5.25 kilometer uphill walk to Alberguería!

While you never really walk through Tamicelas, you do catch glimpses of it, down the hill to your right. There are no services in Tamicelas.

Continuing up the hill another 150 meters or so, you come to the town church, shown below. There is a nice bench where you can take a break if you wish. You might want to gather your energy here as we did, as this is where the real climb begins!

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The brief section of pavement ends after the church, as well as the town itself, as we headed up the hill. From here, Alberguería is about five kilometers away by way of the mountain, or as the locals say, "de la montaña."  

After about 7.0 kilometers into the day there is a Y-intersection, with the mojón just beyond the turn, pictured below, and where you stay to the right. There has been a lot of clear cutting through this section in more recent years as you can see. 

The road gets rougher and more eroded as it climbs up onto the ridge and the grade is much steeper for about the next kilometer.

A few steps after the first Y-intersection, yet another Y-intersection presents itself, below. Stay left to stay high on the ridge. And keep climbing!

Don’t forget to look behind you once in a while as you climb! There are some very nice views to the valley below, like in the photo below. The views are a good excuse to stop and breathe! You won’t be disappointed. You can see with the perspective of Rich in the photo, just how steep and rugged the climb can be in certain spots!

After not quite 8.0 kilometers, the rough lane joins this main logging lane shown next, after a T-intersection and a left turn. Now the road is much wider and less eroded again. While it looks like you are reaching a top in the photo, you are not! However the intense steepness of the climb will abate a bit through the next 1.5 kilometers. 

When you reach the “top” of this section, as the lane makes a strong bend to the right at a clear cut area, you will see more views of the mountains and more logging roads on your left hand side. 

A few steps later you will arrive at a very prominent crossroads and the way is straight onwards. Every intersection is prominently waymarked, so no worries!

By way of the mountain, you are climbing upward and along a ridge top. As per usual in Galicia, these high areas often have more weather than down below. On our first walk through, it was so misty by the time we reached these heights, we could see almost nothing of the views! 

After 8.8 kilometers come to this interesting waymark, below, just before a little steep uphill with a barely discernable lane that descends to the right.

Whenever an intersection presents itself along this high ridge, make the choice of staying high and continuing to climb - ha ha! This is true a bit later when another road descends to the left, and you will stay straight to continue the climb after about 9.1 kilometers into the day. 

After about kilometer 9.5, the improved lane takes a decidedly steeper incline and will climb significantly for the next 1.2 kilometers, see below. This photo is a look-back to Rich, with his head down, making the steep climb.

The lanes are not completely forested, but are also quite open at times and on a hot day can be intense, as we learned. 

When the lane becomes even more improved with gravel, you know the climb is about to end. Plus it feels more open and like it is flattening a bit. You can sense the real top is close, pictured below. You are still climbing a while longer, however! 

And then suddenly, you see the pavement ahead, and the mountain road ends, below. 

It is the same old OU-113 that you join once again, by turning to the right. At this juncture you are 10.7 kilometers into your day. Here you are more than halfway to Vilar de Barrio and almost done with the climbing for the day ~ at least the hardest part! The altitude here is 913 meters (almost 3000 feet).

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The OU-113 is the way to go to the next village of Alberguería and it is on a slight descent into town, along a nice pedestrian sidewalk to the right. 

It is only a short walk of about 800 meters along this stretch of the OU-113, when you come to the sign for Alberguería, below. You are about 11.7 kilometers into the day on the Camino Sanabrés from A Laza to Vilar de Barrio, at the sign. 

About 200 meters later as you approach the first buildings of town, the Camino sign directs you to the first left, photo below, by the Nicanor Carbello carving on the wall and the 149.994 kilometer waymark!

After the turn, the Rincón del Peregrino, or Pilgrim's Corner is just ahead. Look for the tables outside and the flying flags. You can't miss it. 

Everyone loves this iconic pilgrim’s stop! This fabulous and famous little place is covered in scallop shells left by pilgrims. Here is the gang, standing in the entryway, Elle, Norm, Miguel, Rich and Nadine. 

The proprietor, Luis, used to give the shells out, but now you have to purchase them for a small fee, in order to write your name and hang your shell. Luis will also play music from your country of origin, once he knows where you are from. He played John Denver for us! We sang "Rocky Mountain High" at the top of our lungs. Even Miguel knew the song. 

We had a rip-roaring time here, and it's well worth the stop for the camaraderie. The Rincón del Peregrino is also a bar and an albergue, the only service in town. We took advantage of obtaining a café con leche and a bite to eat. 

Then it was onward, walking through town. Immediately after the Rincón del Peregrino, turn left at an intersection, to walk by the town church, shown below.

 After the church, at the next intersection, stay straight onward at this pillar, below. A "Picota" was the hub of town life, historically serving as a symbol of jurisdiction and where town justice was served. 

Continue straight through this small town, until coming to this house on the corner, and turn to the left. 

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After the turn, pass by a few more houses, and you are back in open countryside. You will be on this particular lane, below, for approximately the next three kilometers. During this walk, there is still a bit of altitude to gain, but essentially you will not feel it much. 

About 13.4 kilometers into the day, you will cross over this paved secondary road.

You can see and hear the OU-113 on your right side now as the Camino lane parallels the highway. 

After 14.4 kilometers, the lane meets the OU-113, but crosses over it to continue onto the lane on the other side for the final meter’s climb to the top.

After less than 1/4 kilometer, you will finally come to the ultimate top of the day's altitude gain, here at this wooden cross. This cross is called the Cruz do Alto do Talariño, and is at about 14.8 kilometers into day ten. The long climb is now over. 

From the top, the lane reverses course and now descends steeply on the other side. 

The nice walk on the lanes ends after approximately 15.2 kilometers into the day, and joins the OU-113 yet again.

After turning to the right onto the roadway, the views to the west and over the plain are striking, below. The plain that you see is portend to what is to come! Fasten your seatbelts!

It is only 300 meters later that the Camino leaves the pavement and turns to the left on another lane, shown below. Rich is fixing his shoe here, before the next part of the steep descent!

And now, the incredibly steep descent begins, below. It is good that the open views can be seen here and there through the trees. 

The lane meanders around and views of several small villages on the hillside, as well as Vilar de Barrio, will now grace your horizon, pictured below. This is a very pleasant, but steep walk through here. 

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This nice lane comes to an end at a T-intersection with a picturesque stone wall, where you will turn to the right. Follow this nice wall for about 200 meters. You can see the recent improvements to the lane. 

By 16.9 kilometers, you will come out at a T-intersection with a secondary road. At the intersection, a left turn is required onto this quiet paved road, pictured next, still following the stone wall. 

We spied this lovely gate along the wall on the Way. "A Santiago Voy" or I'm going to Santiago!

After the gate, a right turn, shown below, carries you onward along a forest lane for the next 1/3 kilometer for a nice shortcut to the OU-1104.

It is at around 17.6 kilometers into the day that you come to an intersection with the OU-1104 to take your final approach into Vilar de Barrio, by turning to the right, at the 144.047 kilometer waymark. A few meters later pass the 17 km highway marker. 

As you walk toward town, the road widens and after 18.5 kilometers, the sign for Vilar de Barrio greets you.

About 150 meters after the sign, the Camino takes a right turn onto a side road. 

A few meters later we passed the turn-off for A Casa do Adelino, +34 609 63 57 62, a casa rural, only a few meters beyond the turn. Our objective was the municipal albergue in the center of town so we kept going. 

As you walk towards the center of town along the Rúa da Vilar, pass by this picturesque old granary. 

After about 400 meters past the turn-off into town, walking along the Rúa da Vilar, make a right turn onto the street, the Avenida Río Cobo for the final few meters into the center of town.

We took a quick left to pass by the Bistró Don Manuel to see what was cooking ~ they had an inviting menu board posted on the main road, but then decided to check into the albergue first.

We headed back through the small park, and turned right at the large traffic circle in the center of town, onto the main street, the OU-1103. 

After the traffic circle it is only 90 meters up the hill to the municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Vilar de Barrio, shown below. 

The albergue is very nice, and has two upstairs dormitory rooms with 10 beds each. The one room is heated with radiant heat on the floor! Very nice! That is the one we stayed in. 

There is a lovely kitchen here, but unfortunately when we arrived there were no pots, pans nor utensils with which to cook. 

After cleaning up and hand-washing our laundry, we headed off to the Bistró Don Manuel for our daily celebrations. Unfortunately, Norm left his expensive rain jacket at the bar when we left. When he realized his error, several hours later, he returned when the bar reopened after siesta. The same barman denied having ever seen it. Norm knew instinctively he was lying. He pressed the man, but he insisted it was not there. 

Most fortunately, with Miguel's help, Norm found a sports shop that was selling rain jackets. While it was not of the same quality, it would serve its purpose.

As far as we could tell, this barman no longer works at the bistro when we revisted the establishment. In fact, we had a very nice, inexpensive meal here. 

Reflections on Day Ten of the Camino Sanabrés, A Laza to Vilar de Barrio

For me, my first time through, I had a dull mood, perhaps reflecting the grayness of the day. I voice-journaled almost nothing. While it was an uneventful day, except for the rain jacket incident, it was also an uninspiring day. It was merely a day that had to be put in, without any real inspiration or joy. These types of days happen!

I could definitely hear "my heart beating more loudly because of the rigor of the movement," but no new ideas arose in me. It was a chit-chat type of day, with little or no purpose but to arrive at the next destination. Perhaps, what may have been arising in me was a weariness of the journey, a weariness of the situation, and a weariness of not having more alone time. And so it was. 

However, on a pleasant and sunny day, everything changes, doesn’t it? On another day, my experience of this journey was one filled with joy, accomplishment and amazing vistas. 

The weather most certainly affects one's mood and on a clear day, the joy of this ridgetop will nurture you. A vigorous walk can make or break your spirit, and this day is one such day!

Salutation

May your own day ten on the Camino Sanabrés from A Laza to Vilar de Barrio take you to a contemplative dimension through the act of walking, the vigor of your movement and the arising of new ideas within you. Ultreia! 

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~ Vía de la Plata Stages from Salamanca

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