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Camino Sanabrés, Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía, Day Eleven, 13.68 Kilometers (8.47 Miles)

Our day eleven on the Camino Sanabrés from Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía was another rain-soaked day, though not like our day eight, this gentle rain was manageable. It was a short day and demanded little physical exertion, so we remained comfortable throughout the day's journey. 

Quote for Day Eleven on the Camino Sanabrés, Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía

“Walk slow, don’t rush. That place you have to reach is yourself.” ~ José Ortega y Gasset, Spanish Philosopher and Essayist

This day's quote was very appropriate for us as a group. I found myself repeatedly rearranging our schedule to accommodate the group's needs. It was a bit difficult for me to do a day as short as 14 kilometers, but it was necessary. 

My friend, Nadine's limp was not going away, despite frequent doses of Ibuprofen, kinesiology tape, and the daily rolling of her right shin with a fascia ball. It was now ten days of limping. I knew in my heart, from all my experience as a rehab nurse, and an avid walker, that she was suffering from tendonitis of the muscles of the shin. The only way to heal tendonitis is to rest. Period.

On our day to Campobecerros, several days ago, we had a discussion and she stated that she did not want to hold up the group. While I did my best to accommodate her and create a schedule for shorter days, it was still not enough. In fact, her limp was worsening. She was holding up the group. 

We continued to have the group discussion, that Nadine could shorten her days by taking a taxi or a bus for part of them. But she was determined to walk the Way for every step and continue to do it with us, as a group. No one could convince her otherwise.

She did not wish to do her own Camino, or perhaps, she did not wish to be left behind. I was not sure. The place within herself was speaking to her, and I could only hope that she would listen. My worry for her and her health was increasing each day. 

We all were looking forward to another rest day, in two days, in Ourense because we all hoped for a miracle for Nadine's worsening tendonitis. However, we all agreed to stay together, take this day slower and appreciate each and every moment as the Camino was asking of us. It was easy to do, despite the rain that was gently falling on us throughout the day. 

Most surprising of all was that our Spanish ambassador and group member, Miguel, continued to stay with us. He was perhaps the strongest walker of all, but I believe his family's desire that he not walk alone was foremost in his mind. Or perhaps, he just enjoyed helping us and being our ambassador. 

I had the conversation with Miguel, releasing him from any responsibilities to our group, so that he could go on with his own Camino and his own pace. He heard me, but thus far continued to walk with us. 

As you can see in the photos to follow, he was not in a lot of them, but was walking ahead, as the group's pace slowed even more. 

Maps and Stats of Day Eleven on the Camino Sanabrés, Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía

Here is our map of the day, interactive and with the available services placed on it. There are no accommodations in this 14 kilometers, but there are several bars, as you can see, if you like a coffee break along the Way. 

We have also walked onward another 3.7 kilometers, past the albergue in Xunqueira de Ambia to O Pousa and stayed in the comfortable Pensión Rural A Pousa. It makes for a shorter day the next day if you are planning to stay in Ourense, with both stages being about 18 kilometers. There is no albergue in O Pousa, so your budget may play a key part in your decision. 

The day's profile is a gentle one, with a 100 meter-or-so climb after the long flat farm fields, that you will see in the photos below. The climb is over about three kilometers with two steeper sections. The final few kilometers are all downhill, into Xunqueira de Ambía.

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Photo-Rich Travelogue for Day Eleven on the Camino Sanabrés, Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía

We started off our morning, in the rain and dark. It had rained significantly during the night and when we first got up. We looked at each other, with questions in our eyes, as we ate breakfast, but by the time we started walking, the rain was very light. 

Within a few meters of leaving the albergue on the OU-1103, walking westward through the main traffic circle, we came to this open bar, below. We had already eaten, so we carried on. Vilar de Barrio is a sizable town, so most likely at least one bar will be open if you need it. 

The way through the streets of town is about one kilometer long with houses and buildings spread out along the main road. 

We soon passed the last buildings of town, and walked into the countryside. It is after about 1.15 kilometers that we came to this Y-intersection, below, with no official waymark, just the carved one. Fortunately, I caught it and went left, leaving the main road and towards the next hamlet of Bóveda.

It is not even 1/2 kilometer after the turn that you arrive into the town limits, on this secondary road, shown below, after approximately 1.7 kilometers total.

Shortly after entering the town proper, about 1/2 kilometer later, the Camino takes you to the right at a Y-intersection, off the main road and by this nice picnic area. If it were a nice day and the timing was right, this would be a nice rest area. It also has a fountain as you can see. 

This rest area is approximately 2.3 kilometers into the day. 

If you were to stay to the left here at the picnic area, there is a bar a few meters ahead, and if you continue onward, you will meet up with the Camino again in only a few more meters. 

As we walked through the center of Bóveda, the elevated old hórreos (granaries) were something to see! Not to mention the architectural features of the buildings on the left, in the photo below. 

The waymarking is perfect through town, and at this intersection, below, at yet another Nicanor Carballo sculpture, you stay to the right, to join the main road once again. This is about 1/3 kilometer from the picnic area. 

As you can see, a small climb commences here as you are leaving Bóveda. It is the small hump after 2.5 kilometers, in the elevation profile shown at the beginning of this article. 

After the short climb, you enter the next town of Vilar de Gomareite. It is not discernable where Bóveda ends and Vilar de Gomareite begins, if it were not for this sign. The two towns blend into one another. 

It is after almost exactly 3.0 kilometers into day eleven, when you encounter the town sign.

At the very next intersection after the town sign, about 100 meters later, the Camino leaves the main road to the left, below. If you were to stay right here instead, there is another bar in about 150 meters, if you need it. 

The Camino stays straight onwards, at yet another old granary as you leave Vilar de Gomareite, shown below.

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After walking through Vilar de Gomareite, you come to a T-intersection, and you take a right turn northward, onto this secondary road, approximately 3.5 kilometers into the day.

Thus begins the long farm lanes that you will walk on next, for almost 5.0 kilometers! 

After approximately kilometer 4.0, the Way takes this farmer's lane to the left and westward. It continued to rain lightly, as we walked onward.

The long and straight lane ahead became more primitive as we walked onward. The walk on this straight, long lane is over three kilometers of flat loveliness! 

At kilometer 7.4, a bit more than halfway through this day, the Way goes to the right, at this intersection. It was starting to rain a bit harder now. Not as lovely. 

This is the way to the next town of Bobadela. About 700 meters after the turn, you cross the paved road and the town is just ahead. The lane also turns to pavement here after the crossroad.

One hundred meters later, a left turn takes you into town. After another 150 meters come to the next intersection after approximately 8.4 kilometers total. Turn left again and join the main road through town at a long concrete wall. 

Only a few steps later, the way is to the right before the tall, 3-story house, shown in the photo below.

The townspeople or maybe just a few of them have an interesting, and warm reception for pilgrims. As you walk along through the vintage town on a very narrow lane, you will be greeted by painted boots, painted rocks and tires and encouraging sayings painted on signs, like "Si te caíste ayer, levántate hoy!" translating to "If you fell yesterday, get up today!"

You will first encounter the decorations along a low wall, then this next wonderful display, below.

Unfortunately, there are no services in Bobadela. 

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Arrive into the teeny tinny town square after about 8.6 kilometers. There is a nice area to sit on benches, an antique water fountain and this pilgrim’s friend to greet you, pictured below.

Minutes later, you are exiting through town, below, on this narrow lane. 

From the narrow paved lane, the Camino leaves town and takes a right hand turn onto a lovely deeply-cut forest lane.

Within about 100 meters arrive at the entry to this lovely ancient forest road, below, turning left at the kilometer waymark 133.743. On the hand-painted signs at the entry to the historic road, are the words “pasiño a faise pasiño,” in Galician, “step by step it is done.”

Or, to quote the famous saying, “The Way is made by walking!” (excerpt from the famous poem by the Spaniard, Antonio Machado, “Proverbios y Cantares XXIX” in Campos de Castilla). 

This section is an incredibly enchanted walk, with the vine covered stone walls and majestic Galician oaks. It is the perfect place to contemplate what Way you are creating, step-by-step! 

You don’t even realize that you are climbing through this section. In fact, immediately upon entering Bobadela the long climb for the day had begun. By about nine kilometers, you will notice the climb becoming steeper, until you arrive at a crossing with a paved road after about 9.3 kilometers. After crossing the road, you are walking along a parallel forest path toward the next town of Padroso. 

After about another 100 meters come to a T-intersection and turn left onto the paved road towards town. I did not see any waymark nor a yellow arrow indicating this direction, however, a few steps later you will encounter the sign for the town limits. Upon reaching this pavement, it is a downhill stroll into town. All-in-all the first real climbing only lasts about 800 meters in length. Not bad at all.

Padroso is a tiny hamlet and you wind through it on the road, passing an initial cluster of buildings at this hórreo, below.

After the horreos, continue straight onward to the center of town. There are no services in this town. However, there is a new municipal albergue planned in this building, pictured below. There is a white sign on the building stating the coming construction, but with no beginning date as of this writing.

At the western edge of town, follow this sign onto a forest lane in the direction of Cima de Vila. This is just shy of 10 kilometers into the day. 

Once again, in the kilometers ahead, it is back into the lush Galician forest.

And once again, the strong, second and final climb begins. 

The photo above is the climb on our original story’s rainy day, with a look-back to Nadine and Norm showing the steepness of the climb.  On our rainy day, the rain never let up, but at least it was only raining softly. Fortunately, there was no wind.

Here is Rich on the final approach on a sunny day. The top is now steps away.

It is after 10.6 kilometers when you reach this intersection near the top, in the photo below. The distance for the second climb is also only about 800 meters total. Bingo - climbing done! 

At the intersection, is one of the best Nicanor Carballo Camino sculptures, in my opinion, below. As the carving depicts, and as the photo shows clearly, the way forward is on the path straight ahead. Take a moment to linger here, where the views are lovely at the top, and even true through the mist on our rainy day. 

You will be following the sign ahead on the path towards Cima de Vila - Quintela, below. It is interesting to me that the name used for the Camino here is the Camiño Mozárabe. Mozárabe is the Arabic name for an Arabic Christian. I hadn't seen this terminology since we left the Vía de la Plata, not quite two weeks ago.

The ultimate top is just steps beyond the sign, after 10.7 kilometers into the day on the Camino Sanabrés from Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía.

And then the steep descent on the other side begins. The rocks were slippery in the rain, so we exercised caution.

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After negotiating the rock ledges, we dropped back into the forest, photo below. The stately oak trees were protective and gorgeous in the rain.

After 11.1 kilometers, you come to an opening in the forest, and this sign shown below. You could take this short diversion to see the 13th century cross, one of the oldest crosses on the Camino, the Cruceiro de Cima de Vila, linked with the Camino de Santiago, at a rest area in Cima de Vila.

It would not be a longer way to go to see this landmark. You can click on the link to see it in Google maps, so you can make an educated decision. And check the interactive map above for the route and GPS tracks. 

The diversion, like the standard route, takes you into the town of Cima de Vila, where the path takes you to an intersection where you turn right onto the OU-0110 to encounter the historic cross. There is a nice rest area here.

At the cross, stay right at the Y-intersection to leave the OU-0110 and join a secondary road northward through town. If you take the standard route, it joins this same road, just farther to the north for an equidistant walk.

We carried along on the continuing path through the forest towards town. 

If you went to see the cross, you would miss the old Roman road section, a bit beyond the sign and on the northern fringes of town. However, it is less than 100 meters from the joining road so you could walk up the path to see it from the road through town and take in both historic sites. 

You can see the wagon ruts in the Via Romana. 

It is at this juncture, shown below where both routes converge, so if you are coming from the cross in the center of town, it is at this hórreo where you would turn right to see the section of the old Roman road in less than 100 meters. 

If you are coming down to town from the Roman road on the standard route, you turn right here at this same hórreo to join the paved road northward. This intersection is after 11.4 kilometers total, for the day on the Camino Sanabrés from Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía.

There are no services in Cima de Vila. 

Just past the hórreos, the road becomes a lane, followed by another forest section. Within about 1/3 kilometer come to a crossroads with a dirt lane in the forest and cross over it. 

After about another 1/3 kilometer and a total of 12.0 kilometers, cross the OU-0110 coming from Cima de Vila and continue on the lane, as it descends strongly on the other side, pictured below.

There is yet more forest to walk through.

This nice two-track lane leads the pilgrimage traveler into the next town of Quintela, shown below, and shortly becomes pavement after 12.8 kilometers. There are no services in Quintela.

After entering town, walk up a slight hill, pass by a historic town washing area on your left, called a lavadero, then turn left to join the OU-0110, below. 

The sign along the OU-0110 says one kilometer left to go to Xunqueira de Ambía. The albergue in Xunqueira de Ambía is only about a kilometer away from this juncture.

You only walk on the OU-0110 for a bit more than 100 meters, and the Camino picks up a side road, to the right at kilometer 13, pictured below.

The quiet paved lane again walks the pilgrimage traveler through a lush wooded area.

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The walk on the nice, quiet side road is only for about 600 meters, when the sign and the turn for the albergue appears, shown below, at kilometer 13.6, before you actually enter Xunqueira de Ambía itself.

We were happy to see the Albergue de Peregrinos de Xunqueira de Ambía, just a few more meters onward, even though the day was short, as we were glad to finally get out of the rain. 

Here are more pilgrims joining in on the laughter as we stood drenched in the vestibule of the albergue. That is Miguel on the far left and Rich on the far right. 

The town of Xunqueira de Ambía is another 1/2 kilometer, farther along the side road.

After drying out, showering to warm up and doing our laundry (which we hung in the heated albergue room!) we decided to head into town to get food to cook for dinner. 

The albergue has two rooms with 10 beds each and a handicapped room with four beds. Most information says there are no cooking utensils, but we found sufficient to cook our dinner. We also bought eggs to hard boil for the next morning, as well as buying yogurt and fruit. We were all set!

There is not a lot to see in Xunqueira so we did not spend much time there and on a rainy day, we had had enough of the weather! However, we have walked on through this town and the nice bars in the church plaza make for a very nice stop if you are walking through too.

In fact as we took a break there our last time through, the hospitalera was also hanging out in the square. As we drank our coffee, she approached us and asked if we needed to get into the albergue! Very nice reception, indeed. 

There are three more accommodations in Xunqueira de Ambía, farther along in town. In the center is the private, Casa Tomás Albergue Turístico (+34 637 58 07 72) and the Casa Rural Miraval (+34 687 38 67 61), both right along the Camino and the Casa Rural Do Souto (+34 988 436 080), a few meters off-route. 

Reflections on Day Eleven of the Camino Sanabrés, Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía

All-in-all, because this day was short, we all did well, despite the rain. Nadine's limp was still present, but she continued to push on. I honestly didn't know how she did it.

I was growing ever more frustrated, not knowing how to manage the situation, so I did nothing. I suppose this was the best strategy anyway. My motto is often, "If you don't know what to do, do nothing."

However, it was my observation, at least with our group, that when you walk together in a group, the ones who suffer the most are the fastest walker and the slowest walker. For me, this was a dilemma that I could not fix.

We had a long afternoon and evening, watching it rain. Because of the rain we did not wander around town, nor visit any establishments, but instead stayed sequestered in the albergue, with food, wine and other peregrinos to chat with.

We had met new pilgrims who had done the long stage from A Laza. It was a bit humbling to admit that we had only come from Vilar de Barrio. I tried to keep my ego in check, but Rich and I grumbled to one another later about it. We would have loved to have made it farther by now. Rich was suffering even more than I. 

Our next day to Ourense was about 22 kilometers, a comfortable, but respectable distance, in my opinion, and I hoped that indeed we would make it that far. The rest day that was planned in Ourense was necessary, but it also held appeal, as I would soak away any sorrows in the hot springs there. Hot springs are one of my most favorite things in the whole world (aside from mountains) so I was looking forward to a day of sheer indulgence. 

Salutation

May your own day eleven on the Camino Sanabrés from Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambía be unrushed and as slow as you desire. May you find the only place you need to reach is that place inside yourself! Ultreia!

Camino Fonseca Stages

~ Vía de la Plata Stages from Salamanca

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