Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

Camino Sanabrés, Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián via the Requejo River Route, Day Six, 27.2 Kilometers (16.9 Miles)

On day six of the Camino Sanabrés from Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián, the traditional route along the Requejo River is full of historic surprises, soaring AVE viaducts, quaint villages and steep grades for the first time.

There are now many choices after the village of Requejo on how to arrive at the Alto de Padornelo, the first real mountain pass on the Camino Sanabrés.

Our original walk on day six was a difficult, rain-soaked day, with a long section on the highway after Requejo, the N-525, because of the rain. However, some of our better, more recents photos in the descriptions to follow, with clearer and nicer weather, will be mixed into the original story. 

Quote for Day Six on the Camino Sanabrés, Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián

My sorrow, when she's here with me, thinks these dark days of autumn rain are beautiful as days can be; she loves the bare, the withered tree; she walks the sodden pasture lane. - Robert Frost, American Poet

Today's walk was a long one, with on again, off again rain, on "sodden" lanes. I had been dreading this day because I knew that a large portion of the Way would require walking on the shoulder of the N-525. Ugh. (Remember this story was before the river route was re-opened, but the story of perseverance is pertinent for all time.)

Despite all this, as I walked, I managed to carry little real or lasting sorrow. It was a day that needed to be done, as an experienced pilgrimage traveler well knows.

We would soon know if we, as a group, would meet the day's challenge of walking in the rain! It was our first Camino day with weather as such. Most of all the other days were quite hot and dry, so it was a true shift, especially with our Camino newbies walking a long distance in the rain for the first time. 

Maps and Stats of Day Six on the Camino Sanabrés, Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián

Here is the Google interactive map from the GPS tracks for the day. As you can see from the services I placed on the map, there are sufficient opportunities for a café con leche along the way, the first in Requejo at 11 kilometers, and the second in Padornelo, at 21. 

There are also tiendas, and pharmacies in these larger towns, so you can stock your pack as needed. Be advised that the municipal Albergue de Peregrinos in Requejo does not have a kitchen, but the Albergue de Peregrinos de Lubián does. 

The AVE (Alta Velocidad Española) construction has finally been completed in this area. The only choice during the construction was the long route that I show on the map in red, the alternative highway route, almost entirely along the N-525 national highway from Requejo to Padernelo. I would advise that you only take this route now in the case of lots of rain or snow melt. 

On the highway route, there is a tunnel at the top of the pass, that many pilgrims are frightened by, despite a small available sidewalk. I will describe the orange alternatives where you can bail before this highway tunnel, if you must choose the highway route. However, we didn’t find the tunnel all that frightening! 

In fact, I am astonished how many pilgrims take the highway route intentionally even now, because even though it’s a bit longer, it is easier and more direct. 

The route that I show on the map in blue, from Requejo to Alto de Padernelo, is the re-opened historic River Route, which is actually the official route. It completely avoids the highway to the top of the pass, joining it only in the final meters on the other side into Padernelo.

As you can clearly see in the maps below, the blue route is a bit shorter, however, because it is on steep trails through the Bosque de Tejedelo, or the Tejedelo National Forest, it may not be easier for you. 

After walking this mountain section, the steepness in rainy or snowy conditions may be tricky to navigate. The streams you need to cross may also be a challenge and the water runoff after rain and snow, significant. 

You may want to ask the locals in the bars in Requejo what the current conditions of the River Route are before you walk it.

All the Routes share the same initial 11.4 kilometers from Puebla de Sanabria to Requejo.

The day’s elevation change is significant for the first time on the Camino Sanabrés, shown below for the blue, official River Route (The highway route's elevation profile is surprisingly almost identical, so I have not included a photo of it, and it also adds only a few hundred meters in distance). From the low to the high is a difference of 463 meters (1519 feet).

As you can see from the elevation profile below, the first third of the day is relatively flat until the mild climb into Requejo at about 10 kilometers. That is the little hump you see on the profile. 

Then it is a long, steeper walk uphill for the second third of the day, until you reach the Alto de Padornelo at 1356 meters (4448 feet), followed by a steep downhill walk into Lubián, losing almost the entire day's gain. 

And pictured next, for comparison, is the popular and waymarked Alternative Route, in orange, linked from the blue river route with the red one-kilometer connector route. 

As you can see, there really is not much difference in the elevation gain, just an additional two kilometers to attain it, for a total of 29.1 kilometers (18.1 miles) for the day. 

Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

Photo-Rich Travelogue for Day Six on the Camino Sanabrés, Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián

We woke up to a day of pouring rain. We were a bit somber as we prepared our breakfast in the Albergue Casa Luz, (remember this private albergue is currently closed and a new municipal one is coming). Unsure of what the day would bring, we looked at one another, with questions on our face, yet we knew the answer - it was a day that needed to be walked.

I tried to encourage the Camino newbies, but I couldn't even convince myself, let alone others, that walking in the weather would be alright. 

We set out at 8:30 in the morning, after the worst of the rain had passed. We crossed the bridge over the Río Tera with the castle looming above, and turned right at the bottom of the fortress hill and onto the Avenida Galicia. See day five for a photo of this bridge, and the interactive map above for its exact location. This is where my mileage figures will start. 

After we rounded the fortress hill, following the path of the river, we came to this medieval bridge to the right of the road after about 2/3 kilometer from the start. Rich shot this photo of me on the bridge, the day before during the daylight. Otherwise, it would have been a gray and dreary shot. 

You will know you are at the medieval bridge when you see a white pylon on the right side of the road, preventing motorized traffic from entering the bridge. Otherwise, if you didn't know it was here, you could easily walk right on by it, especially if you started out in the dark. Or better yet, see it the day before in the daylight. It is a delightful old bridge. 

The morning was nice and cool, and fortunately only lightly raining as we walked through this area. 

After not quite two kilometers, you take a sharp left hand turn off the highway and onto this lane. 

Our group of four had picked up a new friend, Miguel from Madrid shown here taking the lead. He was eager to be with us, as Americans and his English was superb. He is a nurse in a Spanish military hospital, and it was interesting swapping medical stories with him (I am also a nurse). 

Because we had rested one day, most of the pilgrims that we met were now new faces, as the familiar ones had gone on already. Miguel was a new, fresh face. 

As we were to learn later, his wife was home pregnant with their first child, due in only a few months, and he was instructed to "walk with the Americans" instead of walking alone. His family was worried for him and since he was going to have a family he was instructed to take care of himself for his family! How sweet!

Through the next section, the Camino path follows the cut of the Río Castro on lanes, for the next several kilometers. The trail can be a bit rocky, rough and overgrown in places. Soon, pass the 247.571 kilometer waymark!

In October, we were starting to see some glorious color!

Upon breaking out from the trees, we could see the open sky. It looked like it was getting darker. We came to a T-intersection after approximately 3.7 kilometers, where we were directed to turn left, and soon we passed by this old, ruined, stone structure. 

The three gentlemen jaunted merrily ahead and I hung back with Nadine. She was moving slower than the rest of the group, and I decided I would take my turn to stay close with her.

By kilometer 4.25, we came to an intersection and what looked like a gravel pit, but it was a construction business. Surprisingly, despite the dark sky, the rain had stopped, and we took off our ponchos. 

After 4.75 kilometers and after a bend in the lane, we came to an intersection with the N-525 and turned left. It will be a full 3.3 kilometer walk along the pavement of the N-525 from here.

In the past, after walking along the N-525, there was a tractor track parallel to the roadway, but our last time through, the weeds were so overgrown that it would have been uncomfortable trying to walk on these tracks and paths, so we just stayed walking on the shoulder of the highway. 

By about 6.03 kilometers you pass another ruined stone building, below. As you can see, the sun was trying to poke through the clouds - for some beautiful lighting!

The next two photos below, taken in almost exactly the same place, show the difference when the path parallel to the roadway was intact, and how it was barely discernable the last time through. Perhaps the weeds will be addressed in the future and a pilgrim can walk easily on the tracks beside the highway!

Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

After about 7.75 kilometers, just after passing a big blue Camino sign, you turn right and northward onto this side lane, pictured below. 

The road soon loses the asphalt and becomes this lovely forest lane. I was filled with joy to be walking in the cool and fresh forest.

My heart was also full of concern for Nadine as I hung back to watch her walk and observe her persistent limp. It looked to me like she was really struggling to keep up. This limp was just not going away, even after a full day and a half of rest. I felt sorry for her and uncertain about her future. 

After about 8.4 kilometers, you come to an intersection, where you are directed to turn left, and up ahead is a cemetery and church, shown below. The church marks the beginning of the town of Terroso.

The rainy day made the gray slate roof of the church appear even grayer! There is a water fountain next to the church. 

After passing the church, the lane bends to the left and becomes paved. A few steps later, it joins another paved road. Look across the road, a few steps to the left and you will see a soccer field, below, after about 8.7 kilometers.

The Way is through the soccer field along the grassy lane you see in the photo. You are aiming for the large cross, next photo below, on the opposite end of the field.

The guys ahead were yaking so much that they totally missed the turn. I  called out to them but they couldn’t hear me, so I had to raise Rich on the telephone to tell him to turn around. 

Just beyond the Cross, the Camino picks up the road seen in the photo below. You turn right onto the road. The cross has a lovely depiction of Santiago on its column. 

After about 9.2 kilometers, we arrived into the village of Terroso. The Camino takes a right at the small square, shown below. There are no services in this tiny town. It was now raining sufficiently that we all put our ponchos back on. 

A home just beyond the town square has this wonderful mural, below, where as usual, Rich couldn’t help himself, and insisted on being part of the picture! Ha ha. 

Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

The road winds through the village and upon leaving it, takes an S-turn, and climbs to cross the A-52 after about 9.5 kilometers into day six.

You stay to the left after the overpass and enter a lovely forested lane, shown in the photo below, continuing a mild climb. This is a lovely walk in the woods with ferns blanketing the forest floor as you can see - very reminiscent of Galicia! 

In addition to Camino waymarking, you will now be seeing signage toward the waterfall, the Cascada de Aguas Cernidas.

After approximately 1/2 kilometer into the forested walk, the route to the waterfall diverges with the Camino, going right and up the hill, shown below. We did not go to the waterfall, but stayed low and to the left to follow the Camino. Shortly after this turn, you may notice that the climbing has ended and you are now descending. 

The forest lane is deeply cut through this next section.

After about 10.2 kilometers, you go through an easy, push-open gate and come to a road termination roundabout, with the 239.302 waymark in its center. A road goes to the right, and the Camino goes to the left onto a path.

Continue along the path, following a small stream as you descend and eventually cross over it. The path becomes rocky and a bit rugged.

After kilometer 10.6, the narrow path comes out of the forest and into a meadow. It leads you up a bank to this dirt road, where you take a left turn, pictured next.

You can see a mojón ahead, where you will cross the highway on an overpass, also seen in the photo. It was raining pretty well here, back out in the open.

After crossing the highway, the road descends steeply as you enter into the next town of Requejo after about 11.3 kilometers into the day.

We could see the steeple of the church ahead. Eventually the dirt lane turns to asphalt as you near town. As you descend into town, pass a fountain at the first intersection, (not potable), and head straight on as the arrow indicates. Stay to the right at the next intersection by the cross.

Next you will come to the concrete walls running alongside the road, and you have just a few more steps until arriving at the intersection of the N-525, after about 11.4 kilometers, below. It was raining quite hard now, and our mood had turned more somber.

Cross over the main road at the hermitage, the Ermita Virgen de Guadalupe, seen in the photo below. There is a fountain at this intersection as well with non-potable water.

You can see the Bar Tejedelo ahead and the town hall with its flags flying. This is where I suggest you stop and get a report of the trail conditions, before making your choice of routes ahead and ensure the river route, described below is open and safe. 

If your destination is Requejo, turn right and walk along the N-525 and through the traffic circle, and the municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Requejo is at the next intersection on the right, up a few meters from the highway. This is a 20-bed albergue, with no kitchen and no heat.

As you walk through town, there are several more bar/restaurant/hotel combinations that you will pass right along the main road, one after another.

First is the very economical Hotel Maite, (+34 980 62 25 09) which also has a bar. Next is the private Albergue Casa Cerviño (+34 686 02 42 13) if you prefer more creature comforts in an albergue, including a washer and dryer and a full kitchen. This albergue gets many rave reviews. Next is the Hostal Restaurante Mar Rojo (+34-980 62 24 46).

Farther along, in the outskirts of town you will pass by the Hostal Tu Casa and Restaurant (+34 980 62 24 68). This place is your last chance for services until Padornelo, a long 10 kilometers later, via the long climb to the high point of the day at the Alto de Padornelo. The restaurant has a very economical pilgrim's menu that gets excellent ratings on Google! 

If your destination is onward and you wish to choose the highway route all the way to Padornelo, this is where you turn right to stay on the highway. Click here for the highway route to skip to that route’s description and the continuation of our rainy day story. 

Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

Requejo River Route in Blue

The town of Requejo is an amazingly charming town, one that you will miss if you chose the highway route from here. Also consider that the official route is through the national forest for 6.6 kilometers, so you may want to think about whether or not you want to walk it alone. And finally, there are still mixed reports about the waymarking, even though Rich had no problem following the route, so knowing how to follow my GPS tracks may bring you peace of mind!

From my observations of public information, many pilgrims choose the highway route along the N-525 for this entire section to the Alto de Padornelo. I am so astonished by this!

Or many pilgrims do the initial part of the river route, then when they come to the intersection with the AVE concrete road and the overhead viaducts after about 15.8 kilometers, they divert off the river route and climb uphill to the right. This is also a waymarked route and is an acceptable alternative, with expansive views. Click here to skip to the description of this red/orange linked alternative route.

After the short red connector route that connects the blue river route with the orange route, some join the N-525 to finish walking up the high pass and some continue on the orange alternative route shown on the map on dirt/gravel lanes. 

For the blue, official River Route: Continue down the hill to the left of the bar and onto the quaint and paved Calle Carrera below. You will be on this nice flat paved road through town for the next 1.1 kilometers. 

The town is absolutely full of quaint surprises, like historic fountains, flower pots and staircases along the walls. 

Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

After about 1/2 kilometer and when the town ends and you pass the Botas Peregrinas (statue of pilgrim’s boots) after approximately 12 kilometers, below, continue straight onward along the rural and forested pavement another 600 meters, passing the 237.067 kilometer waymark along the way.

After approximately 12.6 kilometers into the day, come to a cemetery on your left and an intersection just beyond it, photo below. The pavement ends here and you will pick up a dirt lane, straight ahead on the other side of the intersection. (There may still be a yellow arrow here on a traffic sign to the right of the intersection telling you to go to the right, to avoid the AVE construction.)

This intersection is your last chance to take the highway route, by turning to the right and after 1/4 kilometer comes to the N-525 again. Take this route if you don’t like the looks of the conditions of the dirt road ahead or if the streams are too high to cross. 

Otherwise, ignore the sign with the yellow arrow and continue straight ahead, along this dirt lane, where you actually will see a concrete waymark, confirming that this is the route. This route ahead through the forest will now follow the Requejo River for the next 3.3 kilometers. 

Within a few meters, stay to the left at a Y-intersection. The lane that you are following gets a little overgrown and rough as it drops to the first creek crossing, after only about 1/3 kilometer from the start of the lane, below. Rich actually saw an otter here. I heard the splash into the water, but never was lucky enough to see him.

After about 1/4 kilometer from the stream crossing, you will see farm buildings on your right. After passing them at the next intersection a big white dog came piling towards us, below. We were a bit nervous at first, but he turned out to be a very friendly farm dog!  

Turn left at this intersection that you can see in the photo above, just past the farm buildings and join a paved road. There is an electric fence that you will need to negotiate through, but it is easy to figure out. Within a few meters, leave the road and turn left onto another dirt lane.

It is after the farm that you will notice that the long climb for the day begins. 

This lane soon becomes what appears to be a historic road, with moss-covered rocks lining the lane and occasional stone pavers, some we spotted with wagon ruts - telltale signs of an old road. The vegetation was lush and with ferns - very reminiscent of Galicia!

Pass a small waterfall after about 14.2 kilometers, difficult to see and photograph. After the waterfall and after crossing another stream without a bridge, the lane becomes quite decrepit and a single track, below, which is a bit difficult to follow at times. There are various paths that branch off and go nowhere. 

Look around carefully for mojones and follow the mossy rock walls and you will be fine. You may even catch glimpses of the AVE bridges in the gaps between trees through here. And then, suddenly the lane becomes more pronounced and clear again!

By about 15.5 kilometers, cross another drainage, without a bridge.

Continue to follow the historic road, along the moss-covered rock wall, below. You are climbing a bit more steeply now. But the forest is gorgeous through here and I really felt like a pilgrim, making her way on the ancient roads! This was perhaps my favorite day yet! (And still is!)

By about 15.8 kilometers, the trail joins a concrete road, pictured next, built for servicing the AVE project, with the Requejo river immediately on your left and the AVE rail viaducts looming above you.

You have another choice here: You can continue to follow the concrete road, as it bends to the right, climbing steeply up the hill, initially following the one-kilometer connection route on the map I designate in red and then joining the orange alternative to the highway route.

These two routes I collectively designate as the red/orange linked alternative route. Click the link to skip to these route descriptions. Remember that choosing this route will add two kilometers to your day, but is less steep as well. 

OR you can continue straight to follow the official River Route. Rich and I split up here - he went the river route and I went the red/orange linked alternative. This way we could cover both routes within the same time frame.

The river route stays on a dirt track to the left side of the concrete road, following a split rail fence under the AVE elevated bridges. These rail tracks above are heading towards tunnels that run under the Padornelo pass. 

Continuing along the official, blue route paralleling the river, it is another 3.3 kilometer climb to the top of the Padornelo pass from here. 

The track following the split rail fenceline takes you under the first elevated bridge and then between the two, below.

Walk a few meters between the viaducts coming to a footbridge across a small tributary of the Río Requejo after about 200 meters. Be careful on this bridge. It looks a bit rickety and rundown. 

After the footbridge, on the other side of the stream, continue climbing up onto a 2-track roadway, past the first tunnel on your right, following the other viaduct on your left.

Along this track, walk towards the next tunnel on your left. Just before the second tunnel, you will encounter a chain link fenceline with a mojón, where you will come to a landmark ruined building after about 16.5 kilometers.

Pass this ruined building on the right side, and come to this sign, below, telling you of a “Pasarela sobre el río Requejo,” or suspension bridge over the Requejo River, ahead.

After about 200 meters, arrive at the bridge, below.  The sign warns that only two people should be on the bridge at a time. Cross the bridge after about 16.8 kilometers total, with 2k left to the top of the pass.

From the suspension bridge, the road onward is relatively straight-forward as you zig-zag up the mountain through the forest. Shortly after the pasarela, the road once again looks very historic.

You will be guided by wooden posts with a yellow stripe, see below.

At times the road will peter down to a grassy one-track path, but Rich had no trouble at all finding the Way. There are no turns, so you just essentially continue climbing up the path/road in front of you! 

You will know you are nearing the top of the pass when the road takes a big bend to the right and taking a more northerly direction. As the trees open up, you will see an opening on your right, on top of what is a big coal waste pile. 

If you walk out onto the pile you will have a gorgeous view of the valley below and the viaducts where you passed, below. The view here is the best - better than at the very top of the Padornelo pass! 

Rejoin the forest road and you will hear the roar of highway vehicles ahead! The lane through the woods actually reaches the N-525, and makes a bend to the left to parallel it.

You can even see the tunnel of the N-525 through the trees as it goes through the Padornelo Pass, see photo below. This is the way the highway route travels! In fact, the river route actually walks directly above the highway tunnel! 

It is a final 400 meters from the viewpoint to the top of the pass at the Cruz del Peregrino, below, after 18.8 kilometers. Here is where Rich and I met. There is a bench where you can sit and have a well-deserved break after your climb! 

After enjoying the break at the top of the pass, you will follow the gravel road to the west from the large intersection in front of the cross, 350 meters downhill to the intersection with the N-525. The Way is to the left onto the highway. This is where all the routes over the pass converge and continue onward toward Padornelo.

Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

The N-525 Convergence of the Three Routes

Here is a photo of the N-525 where all the routes converge. The narrative is once again describing the original, rainy day, where arriving on the other side of the pass, the weather lightened up a bit, finally. 

You continue on the N-525 on the way to the next town of Padornelo. The Camino is well signposted, through here.

After about 20.2 kilometers, you come to the overpass of the N-525 where it intersects the motorway, the A-52, again, pictured below. Just before the overpass, you see the N-525 kilometer marker 102.

(Please note that with all the remaining kilometer totals for this stage, if you walked the river route, your distance is about the same as the highway route, but if you walked the red/orange linked alternative route, you need to add 1.9 kilometers to the total distance.) 

After the flyover, Padornelo is now only 1/2 kilometer away. As you approach town, you will see a yellow arrow on this triangular road sign pictured below, telling you to continue along the N-525 through town and that is true. 

However, in my opinion, the quainter and quieter way through town is along the lower route to the left (see yet another orange altenative route on the map at Padornelo). While the route itself is well waymarked, the turn for it is not. It was the bright blue & yellow town map that Rich is standing in front of, in the photo that alerted me to the route!

While walking through town along the quaint southern route, I counted at least three antique water fountains, none with potable water. The best place for water is on the north side of the town church, the Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción, pictured below, from the N-525. This is how the route looks if you choose to walk through town on the N-525 instead, a straight shot along the highway. 

There is no longer a bar along the highway in the center of town, but the southern route rejoins the N-525 on the western edge of town and just before the Hotel Padornelo, the only place where you will find services. 

For the quaint southerly route, after leaving the N-525 on the eastern side of town, first walk along the Calle Prieta Padornelo, for about 1/3 kilometer, arriving at the intersection with the Calle de la Iglesia. Turn left. (If you need water, continue straight and up the hill a few meters to the church.)

Continue a few steps and join the Calle Real, photos below. You can see the charm of this town.

At the next intersection, take a right turn at an antique fountain and walk up the hill to join the N-525. Your walk through Padornelo is over.

Back to the original story, after our nice break in town (at the now-closed bar), it was really difficult to suit up and set back out in the rain. I was glad that we had come so far before a break, and that we had only about 6.5 kilometers remaining.

From the N-525 where the southerly route through town joins it, within only about 1/3 kilometer, pass the Hotel Padornelo. We seriously considered staying here as we walked by and the hotel looked so inviting as a refuge from the rain! It would not have been a bad day after 20.8 kilometers!

Jump to Camino Sanabrés Stages

But we kept on going! More slogging on the highway with little or no shoulder now. In places, there is a bit of a rough path or 2-track lane outside the guard rail, which we chose not to use. Instead we walked as a big colorful clump along the roadway, see next photo below.

With five of us, the cars could see us sufficiently. Plus, if one came, we moved over to the side. We wanted to make the walk as easy for us as possible. Perhaps this was not very respectful of the car drivers, but there was very little traffic through here. 

After about 1.5 kilometers along this section of the N-525, and at around 22.2 kilometers total, you come to the intersection with the ZA-106 also shown in the photo below. The sign notes that it is two kilometers to Aciberos (via the highway, of course).

You will walk along the ZA-106 for about 3/4 kilometer, when you notice a low wall along the left side of the road. Soon after the wall begins, look for a hard turn to the left, shown below, and onto a steeply descending path. (Please remember that our rainy day walk was prior to the re-opening of this dramatic trail system through Aciberos. Therefore all the photos from this section are from recent sunny days!)

The path immediately takes a hairpin turn and continues descending, essentially paralleling the ZA-106, for about 3/4 kilometer. Cross over a dirt road along the way. 

This path, photo below, is clearly an old historic road that becomes very overgrown and on uneven, rocky pavers and may even have water running through it!

After picking our way down through this rough road, we joined the pavement in the town of Aciberos after a total of about 23.6 kilometers, turning left at a wall with stairs to the top of s terrace, photo below. The Ermita de Santa Ana is on the left. 

The way continues on the pavement, bending right at the Ermita It is less than 300 meters to walk through the remainder of town, but it will totally enchant you! There are no services here at all.

A few steps later, you will walk by an old molino (grist mill) with visible wheels out front, below. 

The brief walk through town is indeed enchanting as you meander through the narrow streets, as the photo below also shows. Pass by a double water fountain with potable water. 

Leave town on a lane following a high wall on the west side. You will soon be entering the forest again as the descent continues. Pass the kilometer marker 221.527.

At a large bend in the road to the left, the road is improved on elevated concrete. After passing through the concrete section, the way again follows the path of a historic road, below. 

This wonderful road zig zags very steeply down the mountain, between the medieval walls to a bridge, crossing the Río Leira, at a low point after 25 kilometers total for the day.

The stone pavers of this ancient road become apparent after the bridge crossing and as you climb up a short distance, the AVE viaducts also become apparent!

I love the next photo below, and I call it the “Tale of Two Roads.” What a juxtaposition! - a modern engineering marvel soaring overhead from the rock-walled ancient and rutted paved road.

The lane takes a bend to follow along the viaduct, finishing the short climb and then turns abruptly to the left to walk under it. 

After passing under the viaduct, the descent continues and you reach an old railway tunnel 100 meters later, below.

After walking through the tunnel, the final section of trail continues along the historic road and lasts about 1.6 kilometers, and you pass this 219.358 kilometer waymark.

To add to the wonderment, there are some marvelous views along the way!

Finally, the Way reaches another stream crossing on another old stone bridge, not pictured, after a total of 26.7 kilometers for the day. 

Only a few steps later come to a T-intersection and turn right for your final steps into Lubián, entering through a cluster of ruined buildings, below. There is a wonderful fountain to the right of Rich and Miguel, with a sculpted Camino shell. This water is non-potable. 

After entering Lubián at these initial buildings, the albergue is only a few meters ahead, where the lane becomes pavement right at the building itself. 

The Albergue de Peregrinos de Lubián is a quaint old stone building, recently remodeled, with 16 beds and was only 5 Euros! Its kitchen is nicely equipped. It provides no blankets or sheets.

The albergue does have heat that you are allowed to turn up as far as you want! Despite no dryer, with the heat turned up, Norm and Nadine, who chose to stay here, were able to hang their clothes inside and get them dry, despite the bad weather. There are wonderful new bathrooms downstairs along with the kitchen and 12 beds upstairs.

The paved Camino road takes a bend around the albergue, and continues up the hill into town. La Casa de Irene is only a few steps up the hill after the albergue. It is beautiful on the inside and outside and tastefully renovated. 

This casa rural, once a fully-serviced bed and breakfast is now completely self-serve. Everything is handled by WhatsApp or through booking.com, including check-in. In fact you will never even see the proprietor. This is a good thing, because the last time we were here the proprietor was very weary and not very friendly. This seemed like the perfect solution.

There is an included breakfast, continental and self-serve. There is no kitchen to cook, just a microwave and refrigerator and a very nice coffee machine. 

Both times we have been in Lubián, we have celebrated happy hour at the Bar Javi, up the hill on the main street, the ZA-106. It still has a lovely and lively atmosphere. The Bar Javi also has the Casa Rural Val dos Pigarros (+34 980 62 40 68), with available rooms. On our all-day rainy day happy hour the booze definitely warmed us up! I had my favorite café Americano with a shot of crema de orujo. In fact, I think I had several! 

This drink is a bit like having a kahlua and coffee, with the yummy, creamed liquor of the Spanish version of fire water, orujo, made from distilled grapes. Most bars make their own creamed version, mixing orujo, sugar and cream. You have to order the crema de orujo as a shot on the side, as the Spaniards drink it alone and very cold. I just order a café Americano, with a chopito (shot) of crema de orujo, and mix the two together. Yum, yum! It definitely adjusted my attitude as it warmed my belly. 

Then for dinner, we five chose the second bar, the Bar Estrella right next to the Bar Javi, to share the wealth, also on the main street, because they advertised, quite wisely for pilgrims, an early dinner beginning at 7:00 p.m. However, years ago it was not a favorable meal. I do not know how it performs now. 

Our second time in Lubián we were lucky enough to have an Italian pilgrim cook us all a wonderful pasta marinara in the albergue’s nicely equipped kitchen. Now that was a favorable outcome!

All clustered together in the center of town there are four additional accommodations, all quite economical: the Casa Jardin Mariana, the Casa Mariana, the Casa Cesar and the Buhardilla Cesar.

Reflections on Day Six of the Camino Sanabrés, Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián

It always takes a certain amount of fortitude to walk all day in the rain, and we felt the necessary commitment on this day. The Camino newbies met the challenge, without complaining, on their first full day of rain.

Autumn rain can be beautiful indeed and despite our discomfort, I at least enjoyed most of the day. My only sorrows were the mild discomforts I experienced. Fortunately, I carried no personal sorrows other than my concern for my friend and her ongoing limp. 

We made a new Spanish friend, who willingly became our guide and ambassador. His energy brought a new dynamic to our walk. It felt like a good thing, adding yet another dimension to our group. 

June Addendum: The river route was indeed to be one of my favorite days on any pilgrimage. The music of the murmuring river accompanying our footsteps through the lush, quiet forest and the historic road with moss-covered rock walls, was such a dramatic improvement to the rainy day highway route! 

Also having done the alternative route closer to the highway, with its dramatic views on more gently climbing lanes, I can say this too was a viable and lovely choice if the section of steep mountain trail feels intimidating. 

And finally, Lubián is a very charming town, one of the best to end a Camino day! Look for photos of it on our walk out on day seven, the next morning. 

I was so happy to replace this very rainy day in my memory banks to one of complete Camino pleasure! But as pilgrims, we take what comes, don’t we? There will always be rain, and pilgrims do as pilgrims must. 

Salutation

May your own day six on the Camino Sanabrés from Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián have fair weather, and if it does not, may your sorrows walk the sodden lanes with you and yet continue to see the beauty that is there! Ultreia!

Camino Fonseca Stages

~ Vía de la Plata Stages from Salamanca

~ Camino Sanabrés Stages

---

Please Consider Showing Your Support

Many readers contact me, Elle, to thank me for all the time and care that I have spent creating this informative website. If you have been truly blessed by my efforts, have not purchased an eBook, yet wish to contribute, I am exeedingly grateful. Thank you! 

---

Search This Website:

---

The Pilgrimage Traveler Digital Guides 

Our Guides Help You:

~ Know what to expect each day! 

~ Locate historic sites along the Way!

~ Know where you are in your journey!

~ Discover a quote from the sages, for your daily reflection on the journey!

Click on a Photo Below to Get Your Copy.

A most popular alternative on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués!👇

The Portuguese Routes are rapidly gaining in popularity, especially the section from Lisbon! Plan to walk this one soon, before it is no longer a quiet experience!👇

Our most popular Portuguese guide! 👇

The most historic of the Portuguese Caminos ~ not to be missed!👇

The spiritual adventure of a lifetime, following in the footsteps of St. Teresa of  Ávila!👇

The amazing mountain route alternative, the  Camino Sanabrés, from Granja de Moreruela on the  Vía de la Plata!👇

The most incredible mountain scenery on this camino from Leon to Oviedo!👇

The shortest of the caminos, but not easy!👇

The very first, Original Way from Oviedo to Santiago!👇 

The pilgrimage to the "End of the World" ~ The perfect add-on to your camino!👇

---

All Banners, Amazon, Roamless and Booking.com links on this website are affiliate links. As an associate of these companies, the Pilgrimage Traveler website will earn from qualifying purchases when you  click on these links. We have used and love all of our product recommendations and believe you will too! We sincerely thank you!

---

---

---

Follow Me on Pinterest:

Find the Pilgrimage Traveler on Facebook:

Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!

Carbon Trekking Poles ~ My Favorites!

Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from!  (See more of our gear recommendations! )

---

Gregory BackPack ~ My Favorite Brand

An ultralight backpack should serve you well for years, like my Gregory has ~ six Caminos in all! My 28L Women's pack gets a 4.7-star on Amazon (Ones for Guys too)!

---

Microfiber Towel Set

Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel!