Jump to Vía de la Plata Stages

Vía de la Plata, Zamora to Montamarta, Day Four, 19.1 Kilometers (11.9 Miles)

Our day four on the Vía de la Plata from Zamora to Montamarta was short in distance but not so short on the mental energy required. The distances between towns, again, were long. While it is lovely walking out of the fantastic town of Zamora, the monotony of the gravel farmer's lanes was making my soul weary.

I was a bit numb on this day, because I was weary of the topography of the meseta of the high central plain of Spain. My friend, walking into our group, who grew up in Kansas said that her friends back home, after viewing some of her photos on social media, were all asking her why she would pay so much money to walk through Kansas - ha! We all chuckled at that one!

Quote for Day Four on the Vía de la Plata, Zamora to Montamarta

To reach satisfaction in all
desire its possession in nothing,
To come to the knowledge of all
desire the knowledge of nothing.
To come to possess all
desire the possession of nothing.
To arrive at being all
desire to be nothing. ~ San Juan de la Cruz, St. John of the Cross, 16th Century Mystic

Well now, this is a difficult teaching to digest isn't it? I chose this quote for this day, because I believe it was my task for this day, even though I did not succeed much. To empty oneself completely of all desires and all expectations is a great spiritual lesson, one very, very difficult to achieve. Releasing the ego entirely - way too great an exercise for me, for sure!

Maps and Stats of Day Four on the Vía de la Plata, Zamora to Montamarta

Here is our GPS tracks, uploaded to Google maps. I placed the services available on the map. Along the route, not quite halfway in Roales de Pan, there is a café, a grocery store and a bakery.

The Café Bar Rosa where we stopped was open early on the Sunday that we walked. This café is a few meters off-Camino along the N-630. 

The grocery store, beside the café is closed on Sundays, as well as the pastry shop, only a few steps off route to the west of the Camino. 

When viewing the elevation profile of the day, while it looks like a climb in the beginning, it is only a change of about 100 meters (330 feet), so it truly is nothing. One has to descend a short hill out of Zamora, then climb up from the river valley, back to the high plain. You will know you are walking uphill but it is not strenuous at all. 

Jump to Vía de la Plata Stages

Photo-Rich Travelogue of Day Four on the Vía de la Plata, Zamora to Montamarta

We were awoken by the albergue staff at 6:15 am, bright and early! We were told we would hear music at 6:30 to wake us up, but everyone was already moving about when the hospitalero stuck his head into our room to say "Buenos dias!" There seemed to be a big rush to leave going on!

The breakfast was more substantial than usual, with milk, juice, cereal, toast and brewed coffee. It was fabulous and we could not complain about having to find a café that opened early!

We were the absolute last to leave the albergue at 7:20, the earliest we had left yet! I did not mind walking out before sunrise, because I knew there would be plenty of light from the streets of Zamora to guide us. 

We left the albergue, walking around the San Cipriano church and onto the Plaza de Claudio Moyano. At the plaza, there is a left turn, following the lovely shell waymark on the street, shown below. This photo I took the day before in the light of the afternoon. I am always so happy to see a shell on the pavement. 

After only a few meters past this plaza, come to the next, the Plaza Viriato, with the statue of Viriato as described in my article on  Zamora. Turn right to pass the Parador, then an immediate left onto the Calle Barandales, following the waymarks. 

After just another 100 meters or so, you come to the next plaza that contains the Iglesia de Santa María la Nueva, shown below. It was lovely in the lights of the streets. The view is of its apse from the rear.

Currently, the museum next to the church on the right side as you approach it is under construction. It is really a mess! My recent photos of the church are not as impressive as this old one, because of all the construction, so I took the liberty to black out everything around the church!

After admiring the church, pass around it on the left hand side. Then take an immediate right behind the church onto the street called the Calle del Motín de la Trucha. You will also see the town wall ahead, farther along at the end of the street.

Walk the 50 meters to the wall and turn right, following the wall along the Ronda Santa María Nueva. As you descend from the heights, the wall becomes taller and it was gorgeous walking through here under the glow of the ample street lamps. You will follow the medieval wall through town for about 150 meters. 

At the bottom of the hill, the street takes these s-turns, shown below, to exit by a gate on your right, shown farther below. In this photo, I took the shot back up the hill, from where we had walked. It is so well-preserved, lovely and quaint at night. 

Here is the medieval Gate of Doña Urraca, the eventual victor of the siege of 1072. (See my article on Zamora). This is a fantastically preserved section of wall.

As you can see I mixed and matched daytime and nighttime photos that served my purpose the best!

Onward we went, turning left by the gate, following the signage for the pedestrian route, to walk farther downhill. When you reach the street at the bottom of the short hill, look left and see a large roundabout, pictured next. You are at about 600 meters thus far. 

The tree-lined street just across the roundabout is the one to take, called the Calle Puebla de Sanabria, or the N-122. If you aim for the church steeple you can’t go wrong. 

You will follow the N-122 for about 1/3 kilometer as it takes a strong bend to the right (north), climbing up a steep incline as you continue onward and passing a huge mural on the side of a building.

After about 1.0 kilometers, into the day, you come next to a big Y-intersection, photo below. There was no waymark at this turn that I could see. Leave the N-122 and turn left to join the ZA-P-1405 here. Many, many pilgrims miss this turn so stay alert!

Several blocks after the turn, signage is now present to confirm your route, as you continue to climb up and out of Zamora.

You will follow the ZA-P-1405 for a full 2.5 kilometers. As you walk, you will pass by several open cafés and bakeries if you have not had breakfast. Oh, the advantage of leaving from a large city!

As with every city, as you leave it, the pilgrimage traveler must walk through industrial parks. Zamora is no exception.

After passing many industries along the ZA-P-1405, at about 2.4 kilometers into the journey, come to this large roundabout, below.

There are two economical accommodations in this area, one just before the roundabout, called the Hostal El Poligono right along the Camino, and to the right of the roundabout, is the Hotel Vanity.

Cross over the roundabout on the right hand side and pick up this new and improved pilgrim’s path on the other side, pictured below. This is the final crest of the long hill out of town.

Once on the path you are officially leaving the city of Zamora, as the sign indicates, below.

Jump to Vía de la Plata Stages

It is after 3.5 kilometers on the Vía de la Plata from Zamora to Montamarta when you leave the ZA-P-1405 for a right turn onto the Camino de los Cascajos, the "Gravel Road," leaving the pavement for good.

As we looked back towards Zamora, we could definitely tell that we had climbed, as the city looked like it was in a hollow. 

After walking on the gravel road for about one kilometer, you come to this large auto recycling center, below. Here is where we caught up to Ledi from Brazil, with the orange jacket (October). We had met her before at the Albergue in Zamora.

Ledi was a mere 75 years old and this was her 9th pilgrimage! And, she was walking alone! Amazing. We slowed down to chat with her for a while, then carried onward. 

Just after the auto center is another gravel road heading to the right, but the Camino stays straight onwards, below.

After 5.0 kilometers, you come to and cross the A-11 on this bridge. 

The Camino turns right immediately after the bridge. I was happy for the turn, because we could see a long hill ahead that we could avoid! 

This photo shows the highway to the right as you walk high on the bank beside it. 

Fortunately, after only about 1/4 mile, the Way bends to the left (north) and away from the highway. That is Roales de Pan in the distance, the next town.

After 5.7 kilometers into the day, you take a right turn at the bottom of the hill. There is a tienda, on your left, and seen in the photo above to the left, called the "Embutidos Ele, Artisanos Tienda," or artisan sausage store. I wish I had looked up the word "embutidos" because had I known, we may have stopped to pick up some artisan sausages for dinner! 

Not quite 1/3 kilometer after the turn, and after 6.0 kilometers into the day, come to the roundabout with the N-63 in Roales de Pan. On your left at this intersection, there is a building that looks to be a granary, but it is the Campal animal feed warehouse. 

At the roundabout, find the road to the immediate left, not the N-630, but the one before it and take it. It is a quieter road called the Calle Gral. Franco, below.

200 meters later the first landmark you see is this town cross, below, next to a nice park and water fountain. There is an information board and just beyond is an interesting and unkempt park filled with Camino symbols and animals, barely discernable in the photo. We smiled as we walked by.

300 meters farther along the street, we passed a playground and a sign at a park that said, "Área de Descanso de Peregrinos." It is a lovely pilgrim's rest stop just before we entered the center of Roales on the Vía de la Plata from Zamora to Montamarta. The murals painted on the wall attracted our eye immediately. 

We did not stop at the park as we wanted to get a café con leche and walked onward to find the Café Bar Rosa. The turn for the bar is only about 200 meters beyond the pilgrim’s rest area. Look for their sign: You must take the Calle las Fuentes to the right, and the first major right after about 170 meters, to join the N-630 to find the bar after about 1/4 kilometer total.

Alternatively, there is a bakery, the Panificadora Alberto, a few meters before the Plaza Mayor, housing the town hall and church, pictured below. The bakery is a few steps off-Camino on the side street called the Calle Álvarez. While it has mostly bread to offer, we had a delicious almond cake, the second time we were here. 

When we finished at the bar we joined the Vía de la Plata along the same road where we had left it, near the town center.

Jump to Vía de la Plata Stages

On the north end of Roales, after 7.3 kilometers into the day, there is another nice picnic area and par course. This is where the pavement ends, and you pick up yet another gravel road. There is a lovely milario (pillar waymark) at the far end of this rest area. 

The coffee with milk certainly did revive me, and I even slipped in a little sugar for the road ahead. I was going to need it for the next 11 kilometers, as you can see. The road was hot, dry and long. Feeling numb, but trying to keep the familiar nagging questions at bay, was a challenge through here. Why was I walking anyway? What was I accomplishing? etc, etc. 

After about 7.7 kilometers, it looks like there is a hill ahead, and just before it, the Camino goes to the right, at this intersection. I was grateful for a small miracle.  

180 meters later, after about 7.9 kilometers, you take a left hand turn, to head towards the row of trees in the distance. Trees are a landmark out here, indeed!

After approximately 8.5 kilometers into the day, you crest the hill by the trees. We ran into Ledi here, who had taken a lunch break and a nap in the trees. It was a good spot for that. She had chosen the halfway point for her stop. We passed her for the second time, after greeting her with a smile and a wave. She was in no hurry.  

Also at the crest of the hill, you will see an enormous solar farm ahead! Wow! The solar panels shown below, will keep you company on your left hand side for the next 1.7 kilometers!

Through this next lonely stretch, a few windmills are in sight in the distance, and you can see the highway, the N-630 to your right. You will pass several intersections, staying straight, and also pass a large horse farm on your right by about 10.2 kilometers. 

Walking along this section to Montamarta, I hung back from the others. I was not feeling the walk. Many things were running through my head.

The rush to get up in the morning on this day had been crazy. I was hoping that everyone was rushing to the new donativo, past Montamarta in Fontanillas de Castro.

It felt to me like the other pilgrims were very aloof. Ledi, from Brazil, was the only one that was friendly. There were two Asians from New Zealand that pretended they didn't speak English. We were to find out later that they spoke perfect English. There were two Frenchies that were distant as well. 

I was not feeling the Camino. I had a hot spot on the tip of my 3rd toe on the right foot. My left knee was also hurting a bit again today, but nothing like before during the Camino Teresiano, a several days earlier.

While I walked the Camino with groups before, the strength of all the personalities I was meeting was different this time. Everyone was on a mission! My reaction was to hang back and remain in my own little world, while the others marched on ahead of me. It felt like it was everyone else's Camino and not my own. 

In my irritation, I even got into a tiff with Rich, my husband. I do not remember what it was about, that's how significant it was. However, I had my voice journal and I spilled my emotions into my phone. Journaling was a good way to get it all out. 

The gravel lane onward passed under a power line, and beyond we could see an overpass. 

It was not until approximately 12.5 kilometers, that the overpass loomed ahead of us. About 100 meters later you must take a right hand turn. Well this turn felt wrong, but there was nowhere else to go. 

Jump to Vía de la Plata Stages

It seemed like a long detour as we walked about another 200 meters before reaching this road, pictured below, that runs up and over the railroad tracks to the left on this bridge. 

If you expand the photo, that I took looking back, you can even see the gravel road running parallel to the bridge, with Rich walking on it towards me. This is how long the loop road is before crossing the railroad!

I calculated that this loop is almost 3/4 kilometer out of the way, versus being able to go straight onward over the tracks.

We discovered that it is physically impossible to go straight across the tracks with high fences there to thwart any such plans. 

It was after approximately 13.4 kilometers into day four when the detour finally ended and we turned left and back northward to follow the railroad track.

Rich was bored with this day too, but he showed it in a different way. I laughed and photographed him as he said he was working his lower body too much and wanted to work on his upper body. Here he is doing push-ups on a waymark. He had way too much energy!

On this long section, we crossed under another power line.

After about 15.8 kilometers into the day, the very straight road makes a bend westward towards these trees below.

But before you get to enjoy the trees, after 16.1 kilometers make a right hand turn. I always chuckle to myself when I use trees as landmarks! I had to do it several times on this leg!

After turning right, continue on the lane ahead, towards Montamarta, shown below. It was a long lane!

After approximately 17.6 kilometers cross the unnamed paved road shown here, where you can finally see some buildings up ahead. From this intersection, the Camino heads in a northwesterly direction, a bit away from town.

One could easily go to the right on the pavement from here and in a few meters come to the N-630 and take it northward all the way to the albergue, only one kilometer down the road. This would cut off some distance for your day. The Casa Rural Vivienda Turística El Asturiano is also on this route, only 400 meters away if you prefer staying in a rural home. 

Instead, we took the longer route straight ahead and onto the gravel road, continuing on the official Vía de la Plata. 

The diversion on this lane is brief and after about 1/2 kilometer, you cross under another power line, or was this the same one? Who knows? There is certainly an abundance of them! Check out the stork's nest on each pole!

Next cross an arroyo, and immediately turn right at the next intersection after 18.2 kilometers into the day. 

After just another 300 meters, and after 18.5 kilometers total, this waymark with the
"A" on it, below, tells you to take a right turn onto another lane, off Camino and towards the Albergue de Peregrinos de Montamarta.

If you are walking straight through town, continue onward and do not take the right hand turn here.

If you are going to the albergue, one block later, turn left and again a block later turn right, where you will see this tunnel ahead, below. This is where the lane travels under the N-630. The waymarking to the albergue is good. 

After the tunnel, the albergue is ahead to the right. 

The albergue is a converted schoolhouse. It is clean with 20 beds all in one dormitory. It has a washer and the kitchen here is well-equipped, including pots and pans. There is no hospitalero here on Sundays, but there are instructions to just leave your donation in the box if you arrive on a Sunday.

In fact, we didn't see any hospitalero at all - just two cleaning girls arrived to collect our money. They were only there for an hour or so!

The aloof Asian couple had arrived before us and the woman had commandeered the washing machine for the remainder of the afternoon, washing everything she and her husband had, including the backpacks themselves! She was mumbling something about bed bugs. Sure. We had seen none thus far in the albergues. Such is communal living.

Jump to Vía de la Plata Stages

Walking Onward Through Montamarta

If you are walking through Montamarta, and not staying the night, the Camino continues on straight, past the albergue waymark, for not quite another kilometer, through town, turning left onto the Calle Morales, just before the central plaza and the town church, below. There is a water fountain on the other side of the plaza.

There is a lovely Camino pillar waymark, with the staff and gourd to let you know you are on the right route. The church was not open when we arrived here on a Sunday afternoon. 

Right along the Camino and immediately across from the church is the quaint-looking Café Bar Ruta 66.

Next, you will walk on by the church and the Bar Ruta 66.

One block later, you are directed to go to the right between two buildings, and head for the reservoir that you can now see ahead. Except the reservoir may be dry, like when I was here in October. 

Look for the waymark to your right, shown below. It will direct you across the reservoir to the Ermita de la Virgen del Castillo, in the distance. 

You can easily see the way across the dry reservoir, in this photo, when it is indeed dry, and when you are actually standing at the first waymark before it. 

If indeed the water in the reservoir prevents your crossing, simply turn right on the road at the north edge of town, and walk 1/3 kilometer to the bridge along the highway ahead. I did not picture it here, but it is not a far away detour at all. 

Here is a lovely photo of an oleander bush on the south bank of the reservoir, a wonderful frame for the Ermita. I took this photo as we explored town, and the Way onward. 

There are a surprising amount of services in this small town. After cleaning up at the albergue, our first goal was to get some refreshments, and we just walked directly from the albergue along the N-630 to the nearest bar, the Restaurante Rosamari.

There is the Fisuk Bar y Parrilla along the N-630 on the way to town now, but it was closed for us when we explored it on our last Camino.

It was no surprise that all the bars were lively on a Sunday afternoon. We arrived during siesta time to find the Rosamari open! Their hours are from 7:00 am until 10:00 pm A pilgrim's dream! The snacks and beer revived me even more than the shower I think. A nice reprieve from the long, hot and dusty road.

However, any plan to cook dinner on a Sunday was thwarted, as the small grocery store in town was closed. The Rosamari served dinner at 8:00, with a pilgrim's menu, so our decision was made.

If you arrive in town on a day when the grocery store is open, do stock up if you need, because the next day to Granja de Moreruela has no services for the first 16 kilometers, and even that bar is questionable. It was closed on our last walk through Riego del Camino.

Our last time through Montamarta, when we arrived on a weekday, instead of eating late in a restaurant, we were able to cook a nice dinner at the albergue with the fully equipped kitchen!

Also in town, right beside the Rosamari, is the Café El Pescador. If it is windy, the outdoors area is sheltered. We have eaten here, and they will serve you a nice hamburger! Rich always orders it with a fried egg, and no one has refused this request yet!

Right across from the Rosamari is the casa rural, El Molino de Castillo. It is in an old historic mill, and comes highly recommended by the pilgrims who have stayed here.  

There are several more choices for accommodation in town. The Casa Rural El Tío Bartolo (+34 650 405 236), that you have seen advertised along your way and the Alojamiento Rural "El Bruñedo" (+34 636 48 46 66). You can check the interactive map above for their exact locations.

And finally, here is a group of pilgrims, with Rosamari, the proprietress on the far right, gathering for a photo before dinner. Rosamari is very friendly, the food is very good and several new, more friendly faces showed up. We were fast developing into a "Camino family." The aloof ones from the night before were not present. I do not know what happened to them, but there was no love lost. 

Reflections from Day Four on the Vía de la Plata, Zamora to Montamarta

All-in-all, I could not complain about this day. Montamarta is a delightful town in which to spend the evening, and especially so on a Sunday. However, I had continued to yearn for cooler weather and different terrain. 

I am an ego-driven person, with lots of needs and demands. When these needs are not met, I am not happy. When these needs are met, I am a happy pilgrim. Go figure. This is the human condition. It will not stop me from continually striving to empty myself. "Seeing" the condition is after all the first step isn't it? 

Fluidity and flexibility. Keywords here. In the metaphysical world, this was what my knee represented. It only hurt just a bit today, not enough to stop me, nor slow me down. But the lesson was slow. However, I was listening. 

Salutation

May your own day four on the Vía de la Plata from Zamora to Montamarta be filled with self-understanding, openness, fluidity and flexibility. May your own Camino de Santiago assist you in your journey through life! Ultreia! 

Camino Fonseca Stages

~ Vía de la Plata Stages from Salamanca

~ Camino Sanabrés Stages

---

Please Consider Showing Your Support

Many readers contact me, Elle, to thank me for all the time and care that I have spent creating this informative website. If you have been truly blessed by my efforts, have not purchased an eBook, yet wish to contribute, I am exeedingly grateful. Thank you! 

---

Search This Website:

---

The Pilgrimage Traveler Digital Guides 

Our Guides Help You:

~ Know what to expect each day! 

~ Locate historic sites along the Way!

~ Know where you are in your journey!

~ Discover a quote from the sages, for your daily reflection on the journey!

Click on a Photo Below to Get Your Copy.

A most popular alternative on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués!👇

The Portuguese Routes are rapidly gaining in popularity, especially the section from Lisbon! Plan to walk this one soon, before it is no longer a quiet experience!👇

Our most popular Portuguese guide! 👇

The most historic of the Portuguese Caminos ~ not to be missed!👇

The spiritual adventure of a lifetime, following in the footsteps of St. Teresa of  Ávila!👇

The amazing mountain route alternative, the  Camino Sanabrés, from Granja de Moreruela on the  Vía de la Plata!👇

The most incredible mountain scenery on this camino from Leon to Oviedo!👇

The shortest of the caminos, but not easy!👇

The very first, Original Way from Oviedo to Santiago!👇 

The pilgrimage to the "End of the World" ~ The perfect add-on to your camino!👇

---

All Banners, Amazon, Roamless and Booking.com links on this website are affiliate links. As an associate of these companies, the Pilgrimage Traveler website will earn from qualifying purchases when you  click on these links. We have used and love all of our product recommendations and believe you will too! We sincerely thank you!

---

---

---

Follow Me on Pinterest:

Find the Pilgrimage Traveler on Facebook:

Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!

Carbon Trekking Poles ~ My Favorites!

Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from!  (See more of our gear recommendations! )

---

Gregory BackPack ~ My Favorite Brand

An ultralight backpack should serve you well for years, like my Gregory has ~ six Caminos in all! My 28L Women's pack gets a 4.7-star on Amazon (Ones for Guys too)!

---

Microfiber Towel Set

Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel!